Can a 273 dipstick tube be removed and live?

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pbiggs

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I looking for some ideas or hints on how to successfully the dipstick tube from my 273 engine before it goes to the machine shop and likely broken off. I've tried driving it out from inside the engine using a 9/32" drill bit, but the bit goes inside the tube.

I've read stories about the reproduction not fitting, so I'd really like to save m original.
Thanks ahead for any suggestions.
 
I'll be watching your thread. I broke mine and I ended up making one. It didn't turn out perfect but it works. tmm
 
#1) the machine shop has probably removed a million or so tubes and knows exactly how to do it.
#2)if you feel you must take it out, this is how I do it;I find a bolt that fits in the top, that has about 1 inch of unthreaded shank on it. I cut the threaded portion off. I drop it in the hole, and grab a visegrip. They are usually loose enough to be twisted right out.The bite marks that the plier leaves are easily filed and sanded out later.Most tubes will come out using this method.
#3) but if it happens, that it wont budge, or you want to save that chrome plated beauty, I have made a tool to drive it out from the other end. It fits the hole exactly. Exactly. And its very hard.But it requires the bottom of the tube to be more or less virgin.
#4) In cases where it wont budge,AND the bottom is wrecked, I bend it over about 2/3ds of the way down and use the bent part for a handle.
#5) One time I had to weld a bolt into the tube, and hammer on the bolt head. Of course the tube was trash after that.
#6) I suppose that if someone has previously loc-tited it in, that might require heat.But because of its location, it might be difficult to get enough heat to the loc-tite.Blue usually responds ok, but the red stuff could be difficult. And that takes us back to #1.
 
approaches or a combination of them.... A driver used from inside the crankcase will have to be a flat face and exact diameter of the tube O.D.
A steel filler the exact I.D. of the tube inserted from inside the crankcase will allow clamp/wiggle/twist/pull, without crushing the tube from outside the crankcase.
Thread tap the I.D. to 5/16-NF, thread in a screw a couple inches and drive the screw out.
 
The original ones are interference fit into the block. If you can get them out in one piece, they usually have some deformation at the press fit end and will not hold in as well as the original. Every time the "hold" for the tube gets weaker and weaker.

I usually just replace mine with a new matching tube and stick. They may not be the exact length as stock, but are a matched set and the oil level should read accurate...


You can just buy the assemblies from Mancini Racing:


Big Selection of sticks and tubes, check them all:

http://www.manciniracing.com/manciniracing24.html


The small block ones may not be exactly like the originals, but will still fit and work together...

Mancini "raw" tube & stick $14:

http://www.manciniracing.com/maaenrawditu.html


Mancini chrome tube & stick $16:

http://www.manciniracing.com/maaenchditu.html


Mopar Performance chrome $21:

http://www.manciniracing.com/mopenchrom.html


I seem to have an issue with my copy and paste. I will restart and try again to correct the two top links....
 
I've given up trying to install used or new press fit dip stick tubes. If the engine is apart, tap the hole for the tube with an 1/8" pipe tap. Buy a 1/8" ips x 3/8" brass compression fitting and screw it into the taped hole. Get some 3/8 steel fuel line or a new chrome dipstick tube and cut it to length. Slip it into the compression nut and ferrule and tighten the nut sealing the ferrule to the tube. Now you have a dip stick tube you can easily remove and install with a 5/8' end wrench as many times as you want.
 
IQ52 said:
I've given up trying to install used or new press fit dip stick tubes. If the engine is apart, tap the hole for the tube with an 1/8" pipe tap. Buy a 1/8" ips x 3/8" brass compression fitting and screw it into the taped hole. Get some 3/8 steel fuel line or a new chrome dipstick tube and cut it to length. Slip it into the compression nut and ferrule and tighten the nut sealing the ferrule to the tube. Now you have a dip stick tube you can easily remove and install with a 5/8' end wrench as many times as you want.
Click to expand...
This is a very good idea!:color:MT
 
To remove the tube, - Put either a 5/16,, or 3/8 bolt,, (which-ever is the best fit,, I've forgotten) into the top of the tube,, (to stop it collapsing),, and firmly clamp vice-grips or similar onto top of tube ..,, twist and pull...

To re-install,, slip a 3/8 or 7/16 box end over the tube ( again, - forgetten which),, slide it down to bulge,, gently tap on the wrench next to the tub till it seats,, at times I've used the open end as well..

If tube is loose,, lightly tin it with solder, if nec, sand to fit..

To remove a broken tube,, use a large self tapping screw/lag bolt, in a slide hammer.. without s/hammer, just keep tightening till it stops threading and turns the tube,, then twist and pull with vice-grip, or similar...

hope it helps
 
You can always count on FABOers for advice. I'm not sure what I will do with my dipstick tube, perhaps see if the machine can work around it.
Thanks for all the suggestions...great help
 
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