Can't do it all at once: what's your reccomendation for order of suspension upgrades?

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MRGTX

MRGTX

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This forum is full of suggestions for turning Abody Mopars into more modern driving and even great handling cars. Based on what I've read here, putting together a basic list of suspension and steering parts, it looks like $2500 would go a long way towards huge upgrades...but even this relatively modest chunk of change might be a lot for a working guy to cough up all at once, particularly when other critical areas of the car are placing demands on the budget.

So if you were to upgrade a suspension piece by piece, what would you recommend first? What should wait for later?

Which mods stand alone as solid upgrades?

Where do subframe connectors and other chassis reinforcements sit in the level of importance?

Any advice and opinions are welcome!
 
Well, I would have to guess that the answer may very well depend on where you are now and what you want to achieve later coupled with what is sub par now and at what level is the sub par parts at. I make that statement with the word "assume" in there because I'll do just that in saying everything under the car is currently good.

As a "In general" high performance enthusiast for my rides with a drag racers streak, I would and will be doing sub frame connectors second. Is it the best bang for the buck? IDK

Depending on YOUR engines performance level, perhaps, thicker T bars and stiffer rear springs would be better. The beauty of shocks, rear leaf and T bar upgrades (coupled with new and wider rubber on the floor) is it will show the quickest improvements that you can do in a day or two.

Subframe connectors, roll cage and other body stiffening parts take longer to install while costing a bit more if your not handy enough to do yourself. But should very well provide a very noticeable improvement when done.

And I'll find that out second since it is second on the list for myself on my rides. At this point, I would rather pay someone to Weld in my sub frame connectors. On my end, it is quick and EZ vs. doing it myself while laying on my back with the welder.

My first order of biz on the cars are the wider tires, T bars and springs.
 
I did my sub frame connectors myself because I was able to build my own. It was the single best bang for the buck upgrade I have done yet. For just a few bucks worth of steel it drastically improved chassis stiffness. I'd say torsion bars and springs next followed by sway bars. I just finished installing T-bars, sway bars and RCD shocks so I anticipate a huge improvement when I hit the road in a couple weeks!

Cley
 
If you don't have subframe connectors, do that first. (HUGE improvement)
They not only stiffen the body but cut WAY down on the body flex creaks and groans.
Then the torsion bars, lower control arm stiffening mods, shocks and sway bar/s

I have 2x3 .085 wall connectors my Brother and I made and installed. (about 40 plus welding)
1.03 torsion bars made a huge difference. (car stayed flatter and more solid just with those) even though just a small block in the car.
Decent shocks (even just decent quality normal ones)
The application of a modern alignment, and offset upper control arm bushings if needed to do it.

Just those things make a big difference that you will be very happy with, and you can decide how much better you want it and where to spend your money after the foundation is layed.
 
Great feedback, guys. This is exactly the kind of insight I was hoping for.
While I'd love to turn this car into a canyon carver, an auto transmission/bench seat car has a few handicaps...so my goal is to modernize, improve the limits to some degree but still preserve the Abody driving experience.

So...yeah. Subframe connectors really sound like the perfect place to start. That's what I'll do next!
 
I think it depends too on what your intended purpose for the car is. Any racing involved? How much VS street driving?

I agree with the frame connectors. Far as I'm concerned, they should have been original equipment, even on slant six cars.

I would do those, then SS leaf springs (or whichever spring you choose) and go from there.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I think it depends too on what your intended purpose for the car is. Any racing involved? How much VS street driving?

I agree with the frame connectors. Far as I'm concerned, they should have been original equipment, even on slant six cars.

I would do those, then SS leaf springs (or whichever spring you choose) and go from there.
Click to expand...

Yea, I guess I should have mentioned the equipment and the order of it I suggested is daily or weekend street mostly.
 
OK, so the been there and done that say subframe connectors first?
 
Kind of like getting the harder part out of the way first? LOL
 
As much as I'd love to commute to work in the Dart, I'd worry about it all day in the parking lot. Currently, it's comfortable but it would be out cornered by a Prius full of five fat guys, riding on underinflated space-saver spares. :D

I'm looking for better body control without going super hard core. Someday, it might be fun to autocross but that's a looonnnnggg way off.
 
1............Better tires if you know what your goal is and you don't have decent ones now

2.............Better shocks

3.............Front anti roll bar

4..............Stiffer T bars and rear springs

5...............Frame ties

On my 67, which was 'stock' I didn't even have decent tires, they are used ones I picked up. My T bars were a lucky find in a parts car, the rear springs are a combo sandwich made from the longest leafs from the originals + a junker Duster/ Demon, and anti roll bar

I have yet to do the frame ties

Just those changes which were redneck/ backyard/ bolt ons completely changed that car. Changed from a wallowing, wandering 60's Nadermobile into something I could throw into a corner and "know" what it was going to do.
 
I like post #13
Except I rebuilt the front end first with new BJs,Bushings,tie-rod ends, etc.
And I have yet to do #5, 17 years later.

It is my contention that;
if your suspension is stock, then the frame-ties can make a big improvement.
BUT
If you have upgraded the entire system, then, on the street, I have to wonder how much improvement they will really bring to the table. Since 1999 when I put this project on the road, I have never had that "oh crap I need frame-ties moment". My car goes where it's pointed, with as much throttle as I care to give it, corners flat, corners faster than I care to at normal speeds, and I have no intention to ever be anything but a streeter.
Sure, I get a little sag at the doors when I jack up one corner; I don't care. For me, the added flexibility just makes the ride that much nicer,lol.
I doubt I will ever get to #5. I'm 64 next month, so now I'm looking for a nice ride,lol
 
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Do we have a "Show off your subframe connectors" thread?
 
AJ/FormS said:
I like post #13
Except I rebuilt the front end first with new BJs,Bushings,tie-rod ends, etc.
And I have yet to do #5, 17 years later.

It is my contention that;
if your suspension is stock, then the frame-ties can make a big improvement.
BUT
If you have upgraded the entire system, then, on the street, I have to wonder how much improvement they will really bring to the table. Since 1999 when I put this project on the road, I have never had that "oh crap I need frame-ties moment". My car goes where it's pointed, with as much throttle as I care to give it, corners flat, corners faster than I care to at normal speeds, and I have no intention to ever be anything but a streeter.
Sure, I get a little sag at the doors when I jack up one corner; I don't care. For me, the added flexibility just makes the ride that much nicer,lol.
I doubt I will ever get to #5. I'm 64 next month, so now I'm looking for a nice ride,lol
Click to expand...

You only say that because you haven't driven your car with them. :D
I could tell the difference the second one tire rolled out onto the street.
 
Frame connectors make a huge difference in how the car feels but Im not sure it is way up there on handling effects.
I put connectors on my 73 340 sport as well as SS springs but it didnt handle near as well as my 68 Fastback does with front and rear sway bars .
Both cars had all new suspension and steering Components...including offset upper bushings.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Do we have a "Show off your subframe connectors" thread?
Click to expand...

We already did, years ago. :D
My car looked like **** underneath and even had the single exhaust with a glasspack and I still did the connectors even before I fixed that stuff.
The front looks like a big nasty weld but it's actually two welds side by side.
There is a section of angle welded to the tie and then the weld to the frame.because I literally wanted to tie into the front section and not just the rear face of the cross member.
I still have not cut and closed in the rear of the ties, but the ties are completely enclosed like the diagram shows.

DSCF0002.JPG


DSCF0006.JPG


DSCF0008.JPG


subframe.jpg
 
I like post #14. Everything needs to be up to snuff before you start. First check the rim size so you know what your choices are when it comes to tires. Tires are the most important thing you buy, Traction, hydroplaning, cornering. Look at tires with 60 series or lower with a wear of about 300 and the highest speed rating you can get or afford. If your Dart is a 73 or newer, carefully check the K frame. I've replaced a few over the years. Also for handling, I'd stay away from SS rear springs. They are unbeatable for drag racing, but not for carving corners. I only have one Barracuda with frame connectors, and I did not notice as big a gain as the others. But the suspension on that 67 Barracuda was pretty good to begin with.
 
Fortunately, my car is really solid underneath...I'm in CT and it has been with me since I was 17 (21 years ago). Even when this was my only car I knew enough as a teenager to take care of this thing and just thumb rides during the winter months and to keep it out of the salt.

What do you guys think of this kit? Is it worth the cash for a street driven car?
It may be a moot point since I still don't know of a local welder who could take this job...

Level 1 Chassis Kit 70-75 Duster A-Body
 
I followed the green bricks recipe from mopar action. I never drove my dart before all the mods because I started with a shell.
I have no complaints with the frame connectors other then make your own. DO NOT BUY ANY COMPANIES GARBAGE!!.
I went with the offset bushings stiffened my lower control arms. Torsion bars are the 340 spec .870 bars. Added a 1? inch sway bar then followed the alignment specs for street performance (pic below)
Also added viper front brakes.
3 way adjustable shocks set to the middle setting.
Rear I went for traction and went with the ss Springs and got the 9 way rancho shocks before Calvert took them over.
I dont recall the price as it was pieced together slowly and suspension rebuild parts came from rock auto or local parts stores.
I have 325 50 15 tires on the rear and skinnies onvthe front so the ride can be a bit harsh in places (usually crappie roads) but otherwise I have no complaints. It's a classic car that scares the women and children and get the thumbs up when cruising.

alignment-specifications.gif
 
dodgedifferent2 said:
I followed the green bricks recipe from mopar action.
Click to expand...

The problem with this is that it's "unobtanium". I've googled for hours trying to find what all is involved and people mention it a lot but it's never "there." I think I bought a CD on ebay was supposed to have old articles but it only had the intro or some such. I wish SOMEONE would gather all the stuff for the brick up and put it in one place. YES!! "we" would pay a fair price!!
 
Anybody have a general idea how much a "typical" set of frame connectors adds for weight?
 
i agree with post #13 and AJ.
Even when new, stock A bodies were under sprung, oozy and would understeer right off the road on big highway bends at even a hair over the speed limit.
For a safe enjoyable ride with a modern feel, assuming your suspension is in good stock condition
#1 disc brakes
#2 tires
#3 front sway bar
#4 at least .920 torsion bars
#5 good shocks
I don't think your rear springs have to be real stiff if you have good shocks as long as it sits at stock height or lower.At this level your car will stop great,handle with a more modern feel and allow you to push the car a little safely.
 
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