Cant get it to turn over

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74 dart sport

Kameron
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Southern California
We have run into a bit of a problem. The car won't turn over at all now. We can't figure out why. We know the battery , starter , and starter relay work. We have connected (at least what we think is) all the wires for it to be able to turn over. Some of the wiring is mixed stock (inline six) and some is new V8 wiring. Could this be a reason it is not turning over? A lot of the dash wires are not connected too, but the ignition wiring is . Any thoughts or hints on why it isn't turning over and how to fix that?
 
One thing that comes to mind (in 74!!!!) is the seat belt interlock. Look under the hood for a box about the size of a horn relay with a reset button. Cut the two yellowish wires and splice them permanently together

Here:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=14304

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1969624169

Other than that it could be the clutch safety / neutral safety switch either wiring, the switch, or linkage adjustment.

First, try taking "something metal" and jumpering across the two largest exposed terminals on the starter relay. Engine should crank. Be certain it is out of gear
 
It might be neutral safety switch ( shifter linkage adjustment ) whether there is a 74 interlock in that circuit or not.
 
um.. just tossing this out - - the way you say that makes it sound like it was turning over/running before.. as in recently? are you getting ANY noise at the starter? clicking, bumping, banging, grinding? did you kill the engine? take the spark plugs out and see if it'll turn via the crank/damper bolt..
We have run into a bit of a problem. The car won't turn over at all now. We can't figure out why. We know the battery , starter , and starter relay work. We have connected (at least what we think is) all the wires for it to be able to turn over. Some of the wiring is mixed stock (inline six) and some is new V8 wiring. Could this be a reason it is not turning over? A lot of the dash wires are not connected too, but the ignition wiring is . Any thoughts or hints on why it isn't turning over and how to fix that?
 
What happens if you jumper across the starter relay? This tells you that the big wire down to the solenoid is OK

If that operates the starter, then determine if it's

1...the relay

2...a wiring problem or the NSS

3...a wiring problem or the ignition switch.

To do that, identify the wire going FROM the relay (small push on terminal) down the firewall and to the transmission. Remove that wire from the relay. Take an alligator clip lead and jumper that relay terminal to ground

Try the key. It should crank.

Post back
 
ahh.. well, hate to say it, but it's back to the future for ya.. only real way to figure out what you did wrong is to go back and figure out what you did wrong.. we can all suggest until our faces turn blue but, there is no way we can know exactly where the issue is - be sure, it's there somewhere.. you'll get it!
oh - do what 67Dart273 suggests - he knows his ****
 
Do you mean take attach the clip to where the wire was on before , and then take the other end of the alligator clip and attach it to the car? Sorry, I am confused. I am only 15 and this is the first car I've worked on
 
Do you mean take attach the clip to where the wire was on before , and then take the other end of the alligator clip and attach it to the car? Sorry, I am confused. I am only 15 and this is the first car I've worked on

Yes, here's the deal.......

Your starter relay.......

starterrelay.jpg


First thing you want to try is get the car safely in neutral, and then take a screwdriver or other metallic object, and jumper across the two large exposed terminals. The starter SHOULD operate and crank the engine.

If that works..........

Look at the two terminals on the left in the photo, are "push on" terminals. These terminals are the magneticl coil which operates the relay.

One of them comes from the ignition switch and provides power when the key is twisted to "start"

The second one leads down to the transmission, and connects to the center terminal of the neutral safety switch, which is supposed to be GROUND when in park or neutral

So what you are trying to do is narrow down, whether it's wiring or neutral switch, or the relay, or the wiring from the ignition switch, or the ignition switch itself.

SO

Identify the wire going to the transmission. You should be able to visually follow this down to a small harness going "below" to the transmission.

Disconnect that WIRE from the relay and lay it aside.

Take your alligator lead, and connect to that relay terminal which you just now disconnected. Hook your jumper wire to a GROUND

Now, twist the key and see if it cranks


IF IT DOES, then you can work with that later, at least it now cranks.

============================================

IF IT does NOT, then further:

Might not be getting power from the ign switch

might be the relay is bad

Next, take a multimeter or 12V test lamp. LEAVE the alligator clip in place to ground.

Hook your meter or test lamp to the remaining push on terminal, leaving it connected. That is probe right into the connector. Have someone twist the key. The lamp should light, and or you should show 12V on your meter.

If you do...........bad relay

If you do not........

Either your bypass (I understand you "did") at the reset button is not working, or you have problems say, in the bulkhead connector (firewall connector) or the ignition switch connector or the switch
 
when I touch both ends with the screwdriver, it doesn't turn over

You are jumpering the LARGE relay terminals?

If so, either the wire from the "square" screw terminal is bad to the solenoid, or you don't have battery hooked to the solenoid "large" nut / stud

In the photo above, those are the terminals in the right side of the photo.

Is there some wiring unhooked?
 
Ok thanks guys. We will try this in a few days when my dad is here to help! I will keep you guys updated. Thanks for the help, and I'll show him this forum
 
Well it turned out to be that the two terminals that used to be connected to the ballast resistor were not jumped together! We connected the two, and...

Here are our results!
[ame]https://youtu.be/b-rWyAefd1k[/ame]
[ame]https://youtu.be/rohdMhIkIMU[/ame]
 
Good job, bro! That paint looks awesome. I must drive by your place 2x a day driving to work from Tustin to LB on the 22. Heck, I probably fixed your Verizon landline once....:wave:
 
The ballast resistor has nothing to do with cranking the engine, LOL. I don't know what you did
 
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