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next, you have got to find out if you have power at the starter. im hoping 67 will explain. i jump it at the starter with a screwdriver at the solenoid
Yes, I have tried jumping it at the relay- and it sparks but will not crank the car.
Ditto. Exactly what I meant in my 2nd post when I said,Mopar Starters have a well known issue with the main brass bolt that the positive cable connects to on the starter. The motor connects to power through contact to this bolt and over time the bolt will degrade to the point where it no longer makes consistent contact.
My 74 Duster still has a starting issue...
I will turn the key and the car WILL NOT CRANK.
It will fire right up one day and not the next.
A little help here?
New parts...
Voltage regulator
starter
battery
neutral safety switch
starter relay
key switch
resistor
electronic ignition
Coil
All 74 seatbelt lock have been removed or disconnected.
Ive gone thru all the wiring too.
All grounds are good.
Please help....
Yes, I have tried jumping it at the relay- and it sparks but will not crank the car.
I realize this is an old thread, but I have the identical problem with my 74 Duster 360. Starts great when cold, but after a 5-10 minute ride, if you shut it off, nothing happens with the starter when you turn the key. Let it fully cool down for 35-35 minutes. All dash lights/acc come on like they are supposed to when you turn the key and the car is hot, there is just "silence" when you try to start it. Have done the following: New mini-starter w heat wrap(same thing happened with an older factory style starter); new optima battery, new starter relay. Battery is trunk mounted and I have checked positive cable from the trunk to the starter. THX for any ideas...When it does not start, tap the body of the starter with a small hammer. Then try again. If that works the starter needs work or replacing. The brushes are worn or hanging up.
->THX. I will try to by-pass the starter relay with a screwdriver tomorrow after the car is hot---not sure if I tried this yet or not. (I have done this when cold and it will start fine.)Do you know how to safely bypass starter relay with screwdriver? That will help test starter.
Next is to check starter relay circuit for neutral safety ground and ignition start signal. Got a voltmeter?
THX. Voltage at battery is usually strong & better than 12V(but I Will double check it again both cold and Hot) Voltage at the regulator from the large +Battery post to either the ground tab of the regulator or the engine block is ~12.4V. I was measuring the 8V between the regulator +Battery post to the actual IGN wire that I pulled of the regulator. Any idea what that voltage should ideally be at each key position for that wire? I expect they might change when key is fully twisted ...I'll get a partner to help me check that.8V at relay big terminal suggests a problem. You call it drop, where was the meter (-) when doing measurement? If at engine ground, then that suggests battery, or connection to battery. When warm, both clamps and internal connectors in can expand, resulting in weak connections. Measure battery voltage when cold, engine off, at posts, not clamps, should be 12.5V to 12.7V. Measure again hot, same way.
My error. 8V measured between the big bolt on the Ign Relay where the +battery lead connects and the small wire that connect to the IGN tab on the ignition relay that I pull off and push the voltmeter probes into. I am only checking this with the key either off OR turned on. I plan to get my wife to try and crank the car the see what this voltage is. Either way, this all seems to work fine when the car is cold.... So I am also trying to trouble shoot other voltage drop causes due to the trunk mounted battery...Might just connect a separate battery directly under-hood when hot since jumping the Trunk battery to add more power has no effect immediate effect on the hot starting problem, BUT....it does seem to reduce how long the engine needs to cool(10-15 mins vice 30-40) before I start to hear the solenoid to clicking and the starter begins cranking slowly....Might just be a bad idea to have the trunk mounted battery though I do like how it cleans up the engine bay.I don't understand about the 8V measurement. Picture of start relay and regulator?
Regulator +Battery post?
IGN should have battery voltage to ground with key ON.
The starter relay coil is energized by start circuit yellow wire from ignition switch start, and ground provided by NSS.