carb loading up

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trudysduster

trudysduster

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
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have had a lot of issues putting this car back together.Had a timing problem and got it solved but now the carb seems to be loading up to the point that when you run it and then slow down to say turn in the driveway, the car quits. I have a 750 edelbrock carb that is new. I messed with the jets a little and jetted it up a notch and changed the springs and went up a size or two and I believe I changed the metering rods if I am not mistaken( done last year). The car has a small ping when it is excellerating a lot. So since I have gotten the timing issue resolved, which one of these items do I need to play with to get the loading up dealt with. Or do I need to adjust the fuel air mixture. I would like your guys opinion as to save some steps. Its a 440 .030.thanks
 
trudysduster said:
have had a lot of issues putting this car back together.Had a timing problem and got it solved but now the carb seems to be loading up to the point that when you run it and then slow down to say turn in the driveway, the car quits. I have a 750 edelbrock carb that is new. I messed with the jets a little and jetted it up a notch and changed the springs and went up a size or two and I believe I changed the metering rods if I am not mistaken( done last year). The car has a small ping when it is excellerating a lot. So since I have gotten the timing issue resolved, which one of these items do I need to play with to get the loading up dealt with. Or do I need to adjust the fuel air mixture. I would like your guys opinion as to save some steps. Its a 440 .030.thanks
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Back the timming off just a tick, and see if that helps the pinging.

Just curious as to why you felt you needed to jet the carb up ?
The best way to tune the Ede is to read the manual,and go from there.
Get to know the carb, before you throw jets and rods at it.
 
i had an issue with the needle valve sticking on one side and not letting fuel into the float bowl and flooding out the other side . i would make sure you dont have a float sticking. i finally got fed up enough and stuck a 750 holley on it and never looked back. perhaps someone else will have a better answer...
 
My bet is the floats are off....every Eddy I've ever used was off out of the box to some degree. It's the first thing to adjust IMO. Sounds like a classic float issue to me...and any easy thing to rule out.
 
are you sure its the carb and not the ignition ? a burned wire will cause it to load up also.
 
all new ignition wires and system. It does seem rich because it burns the eyes. I will lean the primary. thanks guys
 
AdamR said:
are you sure its the carb and not the ignition ?
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Ding!

Your issue is likely rooted in the timing of the engine, IMHO. I've fixed a bunch of "carb" problems over the years that really had nothing to do with the carb.

Do this and DO NOT drive it. Grab your timing light and set the timing at idle to 20* BTDC and reset idle and mixture screws on the carb. Check timing to make sure it hasn't dropped any out. See how it runs. I'll bet money it runs better than it does now. Cleaner and crisper response when cracking the throttle. I suggested a timing set up in your other thread, I know it's works, that you chose to apparently ignore. Keep setting it the old fashioned way which isn't the best for your car and your car will run like garbage down low.

Another little test. Turn the distributor body clockwise slightly, if the engine picks up RPM, the ENGINE WANTS THE TIMING, it's running more efficiently. The original initial timing setting isn't correct.

If vacuum is really low, you may need lighter metering rod step up springs.

Most ede 750 carbs are rotten to deal with. Got bad metering in them.

People will also appreciate you not gassing them out.

There are a TON of threads about how to set timing on this board.
 
Didnt ignore anything crackedback. There is a lot of things being done on this car lately and I have not finished anything. I am dealing with a leakly tranny I cant seem to figure out. Cant find the leak but she puddles over night. Is there a vent somewhere on a 727 I dont know about. Just rebuilt rearend and set pinion angle so I have not forgot about anything. its cool.
 
Sorry to hyjack your thread, but this advancing the timing to , like, 20* doesn't work for me. I've tried this, and I can't get the engine to re-fire after shutting it off with 20*. It just hits against the starter if I go past ~13*.

Also, if it's at 20*, and I rev it up in neutral, the timing goes way past 50*, and the engine starts shaking. Whats with that?

What am I missing here?
 
converter is probably draining back over night bringing the pan fluid level up. when you first start it up does the trans seem to take a second to go into gear? check the seal for the valve body selector shaft and the o-ring on the dipstick also check the dipstick tube for crack around the o-ring surface.


trudysduster said:
Didnt ignore anything crackedback. There is a lot of things being done on this car lately and I have not finished anything. I am dealing with a leakly tranny I cant seem to figure out. Cant find the leak but she puddles over night. Is there a vent somewhere on a 727 I dont know about. Just rebuilt rearend and set pinion angle so I have not forgot about anything. its cool.
Click to expand...
 
Rocky_JS said:
converter is probably draining back over night bringing the pan fluid level up. when you first start it up does the trans seem to take a second to go into gear? check the seal for the valve body selector shaft and the o-ring on the dipstick also check the dipstick tube for crack around the o-ring surface.
Click to expand...
x2:glasses7:
 
You posted you had solved your timing issue via the total method in the other thread. Sounded like you ignored what was suggested based on the total timed at 3500 comment.

And for the others that put 20* on a stock 318 and end up with 50 total. Don't follow advice geared towards a 509 cammed 440! My stock cammed 318's have about 10-12* initial and 34-35 total most of the time. If it doesn't crank and kicks back, YOU HAVE TOO MUCH INITIAL. Getting a good timing curve/set up requires more work than dropping an OOTB mass produced distributor in an engine, even a "performance" one.
 
trudysduster said:
Didnt ignore anything crackedback. There is a lot of things being done on this car lately and I have not finished anything. I am dealing with a leakly tranny I cant seem to figure out. Cant find the leak but she puddles over night. Is there a vent somewhere on a 727 I dont know about. Just rebuilt rearend and set pinion angle so I have not forgot about anything. its cool.
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Check the neutral safety switch as they tend to leak. Mine was leaking between the plastic and the switch body.
 
Rocky, I replaced the o-ring in the dip stick and the selector shaft and the one in the kickdown. The leak is on the right side of the tranny overnight. It almost seems like the pan is leaking but it cant be. I just put a new pan on there and sealed it with the GM gasket sealer. I guess I am going to have to jack it up on jack stands and run it and sleep under it tonight to see where it comes from huh. And Jefflock, it isnt the neutral safety switch. I checked that too. I dunno. I bet I throw another tranny in it.
 
Listen to crackedback he will fix you up on timing and carb issues, Sounds like your trying to do to much at one time fix 1 issue then the next your jumping around too much be patient.
 
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