Crankshaft Grinding

-

nasty68

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2004
Messages
59
Reaction score
3
Location
Pocomoke, MD
What would be a rough estimate for the machine work to put a 440 crank into a 383 block? Mains cut down and counter weights cut. I am trying to get some ideas cause there aren't many shops in my area and i am not sure what kind of prices i am going to get when i contact them. Thanks for any help you guys can give me.
 
Last forged 440 crank I had done was cut on mains and rods, indexed & stroke corrected, and it was $350.
 
instead of cutting down the crank 440source has kits ready to drop in and is already balanced they r rated to handled up to 1000 hp they also have a great tech article about the cons of doing it the old school way. the kit cost $1995
the web site is 440source.com or call them at 775.883.2590
but that's me best wishes to u.
 
In truth - I'd buy the Source crank before I had a factory forged worked to fit. It's just not worth it when you factor in the additional strength of the design and material.
 
My machinest says less than $400 for the 440 crank. The thing with most after market cranks is they need work (or at least checked out) also most are not a drop in. The $400 was with balancing and it a much lighter crank than the after market cranks. The after market cranks are stronger I`m told but for my 600hp I`ll go with the factory crank
 
These prices aren't that bad. I will have to get on the phone shortly and see what i can get it done for in my area. Thanks.
 
Call Oregon cam grinding. They are recutting my roller cam right now changing everything for 150 bucks. Call and ask for ken he's awesome. I won't go anywhere else ever.

cams are much different than cranks
 
Oh chit I thought it was cam grinding! Ha!!! It's been a long day. I know the F ing difference between a cam and a crank just read it real quick.
 
My machinest says less than $400 for the 440 crank. The thing with most after market cranks is they need work (or at least checked out) also most are not a drop in. The $400 was with balancing and it a much lighter crank than the after market cranks. The after market cranks are stronger I`m told but for my 600hp I`ll go with the factory crank


I think you're making a mistake, but that's your choice...lol. They are pretty much drop in although they will have some taper (within factory acceptible specs) if they are from Source. I never found one that didn't. I can't see how they'd be heavier than any factory crank. Whether or not you cut the counterweights down (I didn't have to on a couple) you still need the weight on the crank to offset the rods and pistons.
 
LOL is all good MOPER we can agree to disagree :). I`ve been around Mopars all my life my Dad was a mechanic for Chrysler/Plymouth from the 1965 up and loved stock car racing so we were always around the track and out to the drags in all those years some 40 that I can remember I have never seen or heard of a broken factory forged crank. Before there was eagle,scat and all the aftermarket cranks there were 9sec mopars running factory cranks with no problem. My buddy ran a 440 in a 3000lb 66 belvedere that ran 9.60 (had no dyno back then but I would say he was pushing over 650HP) broke several rods and the block had the crank checked and threw it back in another motor and was still running it 4 years later when he sold the car. I`m not saying that the aftermarket cranks are not better I`m just saying the factory stuff was good enuff back then and still is if you start with a good core.
 
I am trying to do this build on a budget. This all started with me just pulling the 383 out of the dart to check it out and my main goal was to buy a set of heads shortly but i want this thing to be faster than the 13 second passes it has been running. I figured it is apart, why not see what options i have. I am not trying to make 700 or 800 hp, if i was it would probably be the source kit and it wouldn't be much of a budget build. Any ideas on how to make this thing faster, stock stroke or not, i am open to options.
 
im not saying the 440source kits aren't worth it but my buddy did just buy a 440 source kit for a low deck 451 build and every rod was .007 out of round and needed to be resized and there was enough taper on the crank to require some work (don't remember the number off hand and don't want to make it up) Point being I would expect it to need some work out of the box even if its not this extreme so there may be added machining to the top of the $1995 price tag. Plus sometimes its just overkill; if youre building a 450-500 hp motor and have a crank that will take 550 hp, no need to spend money on one that will take 700hp. Im not saying do it or not do it, just realize the information needed for both ways.
 
Build the 431 Nasty you will love it me and Pop built one back in the early 80s with 383 rods and custom Ross pistons it spooled up like a small block. You will want to use 440 rods Ross makes the pistons over the counter you can get them from summit. If you need a set of 440 rods let me know I have 3 good sets no charge just pay the shipping
 
-
Back
Top