Crimping Tool

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rod7515

rod7515

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Im going to need to do some crimping when I start on my wiring. I'll be moving the battery to the trunk and the positive wire that came with the kit is 1 gauge per markings on the wire. My question is the crimper I am looking at which is an ebay inexpensive one (yes cheap version) says it will crimp 1/0 gauge along with 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10 gauge wire. It has an adjustable die setting. Is 1/0 going to be the same as 1 gauge or will this not work for what I want to do? Heres the link to what Im looking at. Keep in mind I will only be using it for a one time use! Thanks
Rod

<img src="http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/XIEAAOSwk5FUtyOU/s-l500.jpg" alt="HEAVY-DUTY-HEX-CRIMPER-CRIMPING-WIRE-LUGS-TERMINALS-10-GAUGE-TO-1-0-GAUGE-TOOL"/>
 
Linky no worky, I did manage to decipher a pic out of it though.

s-l500.jpg
 
Whatever you tried to post there........didn't

..........EDIT........and like magic, 1 second later, it appeared LOL
 
I couldn't bring myself to crimp connect wires. (solder only) because it's WAY more reliable.
Also you might be surprised how much amp carrying capability is lost and heat is generated with crimps.
 
More positive connection if you solder. Save your money and don't buy a huge crimper for one job. At least that's what I did on a couple of past projects.
 
I couldn't bring myself to crimp connect wires. (solder only) because it's WAY more reliable.
Click to expand...

from what i have read thats not true. in some cases maybe but most say a proper crimp is better.

how not reliable can a crimp be?? they lased in our old mopars for 40+ years..:)
 
I have no issue with soldering wires but did you solder the battery cable wires as well? They are much larger then the normal 12, 14 or 16 gauge. If so what method / How did you do the soldering to make sure it would hold up over the long haul? Also is the 1 gauge larger or smaller then the 1/0 gauge?
Rod
 
Your 1 gauge would be smaller than 1/0, they run down numerically (up in size) to zero, then 1/0, 2/0,3/0, etc..
 
TrailBeast said:
I couldn't bring myself to crimp connect wires. (solder only) because it's WAY more reliable.
Also you might be surprised how much amp carrying capability is lost and heat is generated with crimps.
Click to expand...

I normally crimp and then solder.......best of both worlds. For the larger terminals buy the ones without plastic insulation and carefully use a propane torch. Get it hot and wick the solder in.
 
Here's a good how to video:[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mOZeKG5j5TE"]How to make Battery Cables For Auto, Marine & Solar - YouTube[/ame]
 
I agree with Abodyjoe, to each their own and I will solder if I feel the need but absolutely not is it the only proper way.
 
I've yet to see nasty green Death Goo form in a soldered joint.

I did, however, see the coolest brand name ever, in that video.
 

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A proper crimp with the right terminal end or butt connector then solder and heat shrink ....... I use blue point # PWC48 and all non-insulated terminals
 
On battery cables I always use battery pellets, at least that what they call them at the auto parts store. A simple propane torch and a few seconds permanently secures the cable ends!! You put the pellet in the lug (holding the lug with vice grips or a bench vice) then you heat the lug until the pellet melts and you stick the cable in there. Be sure and check to make sure the cable (with bare wires) fits in the lug easily or it will not go completely in there when you try and stab it into the molten solder. Depending on the size of the lug sometimes you need to trim off a few wires so that it fits in there easily/

Easy peezy lemon squeezy!!

Treblig
 

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I notice a number of people extolling the virtues of soldering joints. I can tell you that there are in fact down sides to soldering connections. The most common ones is brittleness. As others have pointed out, they seen failures in soldered connections.

As for the issue of corrosion. In a properly designed connection corrosion should not be an issue. Either, you are using the wrong connector, or your using the wrong connector for the situation. For example, GM's Weather Pac connectors are installed without solder and because of there weather tight design last 200,000 plus miles of service.

So for me when I design a remote battery I typically use a 2 awg. Pure copper cable. I actually prefer to use welding cable, as the strands are as much finer than regular wire and thus easier to bend. Two gauge will easily carry the current. I crimp the lugs on each end and the place a length of shrink tubing to cover the joint.

Total number of failures even in an salt water boating situation, zero.
 
this is cool - never seen it, but like it a lot.. last time I did a cable I crimped, then took a center punch and dimpled the other side of the connector directly in the center - sort of swedged it - deep enough to get a good grip, but shallow enough so it didn't go through.. obviously. Also, I used some of that heat shrink wrap to cover the area where the cable and connector meet... twice. The whole thing worked WELL and when it came time to take it apart, it was a f$%^ker to get off of there.
Just an FYI/MHO - buy GOOD tools when you decide to spend $$ on them.. you'll regret getting the cheap/inexpensive one pretty quickly and then you'll just have to go get the good one anyway.. :violent1:
Treblig said:
On battery cables I always use battery pellets, at least that what they call them at the auto parts store. A simple propane torch and a few seconds permanently secures the cable ends!! You put the pellet in the lug (holding the lug with vice grips or a bench vice) then you heat the lug until the pellet melts and you stick the cable in there. Be sure and check to make sure the cable (with bare wires) fits in the lug easily or it will not go completely in there when you try and stab it into the molten solder. Depending on the size of the lug sometimes you need to trim off a few wires so that it fits in there easily/

Easy peezy lemon squeezy!!

Treblig
Click to expand...
 
abodyjoe said:
i used this tool when we rewired my dart... S & G Tool Aid 18920 Ratcheting Terminal Crimping Kit- 5 Piece - Crimpers - Amazon.com
.
Click to expand...

I've seen a couple of posts on this crimper. I have the 18960 kit sitting in my Amazon cart right now, as a matter of fact, which is a quick-release version of the crimper having all the same dies and also adding a couple more dies for only $3 more. Additional dies are:

18928 For RG-6 and RG-59 coaxial cable
18929 For 8mm and 8.5mm spiral core spark plug wire. Strips
the insulation, crimps the spiral core to the spark plug
terminal and crimps the terminal to the spark plug wire
insulation.

Amazon.com: S&G Tool Aid 18960 Quick Change Ratcheting Terminal Crimping Kit: Automotive

Anyone use both style crimpers and have any commentary on whether the quick-release is inferior to the standard? I've read that some of quick-release styles of crimpers hold the dies more loosely potentially causing inferior crimps.

Also, the writeups on the manufacturer's site ( Quick Change Ratcheting Terminal Crimping Kit | Tool Aid ) give only very simplistic detail on the dies. Did anyone who used these dies have any issues with 2-wire crimps as when you jump from one headlight to the next? There's always the old twist-n-crimp treating as just a bigger gauge wire, but I prefer where the wires go into the terminal side-by-side and each wing essentially grabs one wire. Seems like this is a more solid crimp than the twist as each wire is solidly and fully held. Are there slots in the die wide enough for this? I called the company and the person I spoke to didn't know. Thought I'd ask here where I know people had used them.

Finally, do any of the dies do both wire and insulation simultaneously, or are they all 2-step crimps?
 
My favorite crimping tool is an older MAC tooth type. Always make sure the seam in the component is opposite the tooth and use shrink tube. No problems.
 
TrailBeast said:
I couldn't bring myself to crimp connect wires. (solder only) because it's WAY more reliable.
Also you might be surprised how much amp carrying capability is lost and heat is generated with crimps.
Click to expand...
Weird, I've been in the aviation game, military and civillian for 20 + years, we stopped soldering connections way back. Never heard of the above.
 
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