lou3500
Fla. Cuda Guy
Very nice folks, too bad, but it went back to where it belonged, I'm sure Dad is watching!!!!
Dads Barracuda
- Thread starter 69conv
- Start date
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Very cool Barracuda!
cudarudy
cudarudy
nice cuda saw your cuda on a car transporter that stopped at the dealership i work at !
I can't believe you saw my car. What a stroke of luck to have someone watching out along the way. Hope to get it as nice looking as yours someday!
So here is where I ask for help on my build. It presently has a 318 2bbl, 904 trans and 7 1/4 rear. I got a 360 la with roller cam, got a 625 demon, airgap intake and 340/360 exhaust, and 3.55 posi rear. The 308 heads are at the shop and I'm wondering how far to take them. Planning on port matching and some bowl work. What advantage is there in double groove valves vs single? Head shop said he could mill the heads 30 without different pushrods. Also talked to Justin at comp cams and he suggested 1500-6500rpm grind with 509 lift, I'll post the durations tomorrow. The goal is to scare a certain 69 dart convertible with a warm 400. It weighs about 350lbs more and can only fit narrower tires. So the ? are how far to take the heads, what are decent specs for the roller cam and TQ stall. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
bmw88rider
Well-Known Member
Good luck with your build.
I just took over care of my dad's barracuda so I know how you feel working on it.
It looks like a nice example to build up.
I just took over care of my dad's barracuda so I know how you feel working on it.
It looks like a nice example to build up.
So I'm getting to the point where I'm taking out the 318 and getting ready to drop in the 360. Its a mild build w/ 9.0 compression at about 350hp. Cooling question. Will the 318 rad keep the 360 cool? I plan on swapping the front-water pump and front cover from the 318 if it will, otherwise I'll go aftermarket rad with correct inlet and outlet for the 360.
Pulling the 318 and installing the 360. Cooling question, mild 360 build, 9.0 compression, 350 hp. Can I use the 318 rad or do I go with aftermarket and 360 waterpump which has the outlet on the other side?
The ups guy looks a lot like santa
parts1.jpg
Now the fun begins. I still have parts I'm waiting to receive but with the springs locks and retainers the head guy can finish up and with the ring and bearing kit I can get started putting the block back together. I can almost hear her purring now.
parts1.jpg
Now the fun begins. I still have parts I'm waiting to receive but with the springs locks and retainers the head guy can finish up and with the ring and bearing kit I can get started putting the block back together. I can almost hear her purring now.
Any updates Wayne??
I'm in the parts gathering stage and working on replacing the motor/drive line. Got the door panels installed (no more screws) received the rear end 3.55 posi from fabo member, new drive shaft and misc interior from another fabo member, new gas tank and accessories and a bunch of suspension parts. The hang up has been reworking the 360 roller heads. Yet another fabo member recommended a 360 roller to replace the tired 318 in the car Well I found one and I'm having port and bowl work done with new valves and springs. But Mancini sent me a magnum cam and the head shop started cutting the heads to fit. Fortunately we caught the problem before my 308 swirl port heads were useless and Mike at mrl steered me in the right direction with a Lunati cam and accessories Now I just waiting on the parts to finish reassembling the engine. Still hoping to drive the car this spring. Wish me luck!
So the shop has the heads just about done. Port matched and bowl blended, 3 angle valve job, milled .030 to raise compression to 9.1. Dropped off the locks and retainers and went with Lunati roller cam 219 227@50 with .515 lift. Should work well with my 625 Demon and airgap intake. Cant wait to fire it up!
The good news. The heads are finished. The bad news is even after milling .030 they're still 72cc yielding an astounding 7.98 comp ratio. For a block that's supposed to start out at 9.1 its a huge disappointment but the piston sits .097 in the hole with a .067 dish. I was planning on avoiding the whole bore/piston/balance/geometry stuff. Looks like I'll end up with a 30 over. I guess its not a problem time and money can't solve.
I havent learned enuf yet about milling for increasing compression etc. Maybe run with these until you save enuf sheckles for another set of heads down the road?? Sorry to hear, but at least the shop didnt butcher them.
thanks. Time to rethink my plans.
Kinda sucks to pay the shop and then not see as much improvement as you were hoping for. No matter with the top down you wont care...
Its really my fault, I believed the advertised compression would be off only a little bit. I should have measured everything. I just never thought I could mill them and still go from 9.1 advertised to 7.9! Getting a quote on pistons and machining, probably lose 3 weeks. Looks like a late spring anyway.
txstang84
Well-Known Member
I can't wait to see more-I along with many others am sorry for your loss, but very glad you got to reacquire the car. Kinda sucks that after all that work you find out the slugs are that far in the hole-really?? 0.097"?? damn!
You don't mill Mopar heads to gain compression. You change pistons. To go from 7s to 9s in compression will require over .100" to be milled off the block face of the heads and a ton from the intake side. I don't understand why people insist on doing things the hard way. In another thread there's a guy askin if he can use old stock valve springs. Really? Everybody has the same internet. These are basic questions. Mopars came stock for the most part with dismal compression ratios. There are many nice affordable off the shelf pistons that will raise the compression pretty much to anything you want. Now as it is, you have a pair of heads that you will have to custom mill an intake for and use only on that particular motor. Stuff like this can easily be avoided by a little research. These aren't Chevys. They build a lot differently.
You can't fix stupid but you can fire it. Picked up my block and parts, see what I can salvage. All of this should have been professionally addressed before the first cut. On a better note got my refinished dash parts today and got started installing. Kinda going for a top notch survivor look.
Naw yall ain't stupid. Everybody's gotta learn somehow. The big problem is Mopar's exaggerated deck height. The book says one thing but the actual block measurement will always be high. Real high in some cases. Couple the high deck height with pistons that sit in the hole .100" or more and compression is in the 7s real quick. That kinda thing caint be solved by millin heads. lol
Lesson learned. If I can get away with pistons and a trim on the intake I'll be happy. My oldest son is going to be home on leave at the end of May. Hoping to take him for a drive. He will get this one eventually.
txstang84
Well-Known Member
:thumblef:
Looks like KB has a piston for me. KB232 is a step dish piston that adds 17cc and should put the comp ratio at around 9.5-1. Shop has the block tumbled and crank polished already. Kinda excited about what these pistons will do for my combo.
So while I'm waiting for the engine got a couple things done. Buttoned up the dash, all the switches and lights work. Got the pole barn up to 45 degrees so I went for the new boot. Only tricky thing was properly locating the snaps. Came with factory suggested locations that were all off. I think when the temp comes up the wrinkles will relax. Next is the replacement gas tank.
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