DAKOTA HEADERS IN AN A BODY Im going for it

-
Late 90 units through the early 2000's are best.

This isn't accurate. The 92-93 manifolds are significantly larger at the outlet than any other years, and as far as I know there were no changes to the manifolds after that (other than maybe the air injection ports).

Just an FYI.
 
This isn't accurate. The 92-93 manifolds are significantly larger at the outlet than any other years, and as far as I know there were no changes to the manifolds after that (other than maybe the air injection ports).

Just an FYI.

this is the information I've heard as well. It's easy to see though how they would flow great. Look at how they're designed. They neck down to a venturi like a carburetor. that low pressure area right before the flange will be great for scavenging.
 
I had a couple people interested and wanted me to post pictures of the manifolds, so here you go. Sorry it took me a while, my camera battery won't take a charge, so I had to use the Mrs. camera.


my 64 barracuda had those manifolds on it when i bought it with a 318, the passenger side fits but the previous owner had the exterior of the drivers side milled down a little and they had the motor pushed to the side because it was still hitting the steering arm.


i wouldnt reccomend them on an early A, probably fine on a post 67.
 
my 64 barracuda had those manifolds on it when i bought it with a 318, the passenger side fits but the previous owner had the exterior of the drivers side milled down a little and they had the motor pushed to the side because it was still hitting the steering arm.


i wouldnt reccomend them on an early A, probably fine on a post 67.


here is the only picture i have of those dakota manifolds in a 64 barracuda. with the way they had the motor mounts shimmed to push the motor over i was getting drivetrain vibration at higher rpms.

100_3220.jpg

IMG%5D
 
I hear you, and I find it interesting that this is the second time I have heard the person say something about shimming the engine up just a tad to make it work.
 
my 64 barracuda had those manifolds on it when i bought it with a 318, the passenger side fits but the previous owner had the exterior of the drivers side milled down a little and they had the motor pushed to the side because it was still hitting the steering arm.


i wouldnt reccomend them on an early A, probably fine on a post 67.

Just curious if anyone has ever taken all the adjustment room that is available in the steering column, when you combine the "slop" in the firewall with the fractions under the dash, all to the left.

I just wonder if that is the difference between the ones that say they work, and the ones that have to move the engine.

Or, it just might not make any difference and I may be all wet.
 
Just curious if anyone has ever taken all the adjustment room that is available in the steering column, when you combine the "slop" in the firewall with the fractions under the dash, all to the left.

I just wonder if that is the difference between the ones that say they work, and the ones that have to move the engine.

Or, it just might not make any difference and I may be all wet.

Dont try that. The steering column needs to bolt down right where it lands. Otherwise everything from the box coupling to the upper bearing will suffer.
 
actually that is not a bad idea if you take it in a different direction since the column is pretty much inline with the steering box already. One might consider cutting the outer shell of the column close to the firewall and inserting a bearing. From there running a coupler and shifting the rod over towards the shock tower and picking it up again near the box. It's a lot of work but then again it seems all our exhaust solutions die because of the steering shaft. Food for thought
 
yes i agree shorten the outer tube/shell of the column is easily done, it makes more clearance,,and if sectioned and welded back together you can still use the orignal bearing/end seal,,, or locate a bearing with the correct I,D. to fit the column shaft that is weldable to the end of the tube/shell that will be a better bearing then the orignal.,and make the clearance you need for the magnum manifolds,,,
 
yes i agree shorten the outer tube/shell of the column is easily done, it makes more clearance,,and if sectioned and welded back together you can still use the orignal bearing/end seal,,, or locate a bearing with the correct I,D. to fit the column shaft that is weldable to the end of the tube/shell that will be a better bearing then the orignal.,and make the clearance you need for the magnum manifolds,,,

That makes a lot of sense.
 
I bought the Dakota manifolds from HemiEd(see pictures in this thread). I will be posting detailed pics with descriptions of the install. I feel fairly confident that this will help a lot of members as the only other manifolds that have a decent flow rate are the 340 manifolds and they are getting scarce and some are pricing them like they are plated with gold.. Magnum manifolds flow well and are plentiful and cheap in boneyards and are fairly inexpensive brand new. I haven't totally given up on Dakota headers in 67-76 A body but for now I am desperate to get cruising so I will go with the manifolds. Thanks ED
 
I bought the Dakota manifolds from HemiEd(see pictures in this thread). I will be posting detailed pics with descriptions of the install. I feel fairly confident that this will help a lot of members as the only other manifolds that have a decent flow rate are the 340 manifolds and they are getting scarce and some are pricing them like they are plated with gold.. Magnum manifolds flow well and are plentiful and cheap in boneyards and are fairly inexpensive brand new. I haven't totally given up on Dakota headers in 67-76 A body but for now I am desperate to get cruising so I will go with the manifolds. Thanks ED

Thanks dustoff440 , I tried to leave you a positive I trader rating, but the system won't accept the url of this thread, since it is not in the for sale area. Thanks again, and I look forward to seeing your posts on this.
 
-
Back
Top