Bwa ha ha ha ha ha.....
DAKOTA HEADERS IN AN A BODY Im going for it
- Thread starter dustoff440
- Start date
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Bwa ha ha ha ha ha.....
sydcuda
Well-Known Member
I was a little out in my recollection of measurements, 29" across shock towers as compared to 33" with headers installed, so even more of an impossibility. Sharpie's relevant post below:
Unfortunately they don't. They would be fine where they dump and everything, the only issue is that they would strike the shock towers. They measure 33" across where the shock towers are, and there's only 29" of space between them.
dustoff440
Well-Known Member
I called a Mopar buddy of mine who called a friend of his who had a set of Dakota headers and I borrowed them and brought them home. There is NO WAY that these bad boys will fit without MAJOR surgery. They will dump in the right place but will not fit without tube reconstruction and some major tube dimpling. If I had the ability to cut and weld stainless I would go for it. I have shopped for the new Dakota manifolds and I think I can pick them up for about 60 bucks apiece new.I also found out that there are at least 4 different manifolds on a dakota and to get the most streamlind higher flow ones you must order one from each different year category. Anyone interested in the ongoing now manifold saga I will keep you guys posted on part numbers and photos. I would hopr to be able to find a set of the 92-93 2 1/2 outlet manifolds but im not going to spend a lot of time in boneyards looking for a pair. I would consider having a machinist hog out the outlets as far as he can it looks like they have a lot of meat at the outlet. I realize that I will be missing out on 20 horses or 2/10 of a second but at this point I am considering it as I want to cruise my car not work on it all the time.
As far as the dakota headers are concerned ,If you have part of the shock tower cut away or want to use them in a race car or put on a tubular frame suspension, street rod, mopar engines in other cars, I'm sure there are other instances where you can use them then go for it. 120 shipped is damn cheap for stainless headers and I havent totally given up. Im going to email the guy on ebay and see if he will build us cheap sets of headers for our A bodies. I'm sure that if enough of us express an interest in a 200-250 dollar or so TTI style header that bypasses the drag link crap he would be glad to accomodate. I dont know about you but I would gladly pay up to 250 bucks for a well fitting stainless set of headers even if they were shorties I just want to get cruising ASAP!!!
As far as the dakota headers are concerned ,If you have part of the shock tower cut away or want to use them in a race car or put on a tubular frame suspension, street rod, mopar engines in other cars, I'm sure there are other instances where you can use them then go for it. 120 shipped is damn cheap for stainless headers and I havent totally given up. Im going to email the guy on ebay and see if he will build us cheap sets of headers for our A bodies. I'm sure that if enough of us express an interest in a 200-250 dollar or so TTI style header that bypasses the drag link crap he would be glad to accomodate. I dont know about you but I would gladly pay up to 250 bucks for a well fitting stainless set of headers even if they were shorties I just want to get cruising ASAP!!!
Amen. Sometimes, a cruiser is just simply better.
I'd gladly pay 250-350 for a pair myself but I just cant justify 600 bucks right now for a pair of tubes. Not saying they aren't worth it, just that I'm not willing to pay it...
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Good information Dustoff. I'd think shorty headers would sell real good for our cars. Good luck getting him to make them.
dustoff440
Well-Known Member
For those of you who want to use Dakota manifolds It looks like the best streamlined manifolds with the least amount of bends and restrictions and also hug the block best, best all around are Dorman 674-538 and Dorman 674-271 which are available for approx 65 bucks each new.
I think any Dakota/Durango manifold would be an improvement over the stock 273/318 manifolds. I've been looking at how simple it would be to move the top of the shock 1 inch toward the wheel and the bottom will move approx. 3/4 inch. What I dont know is would the shock rub the stock upper arm. Will the offset upper arm bushings move that opening in my favor or closer to rubbing ? Please suggest tubular upper arms. I'm afraid of them.
I know the front steer rack and pinion will solve a lot of left side problems but that may never happen here.
Another question about the manifolds... Since my pair have the smog tube ports at the rear, block those off or just fab a crossover tube tieing left to right ?
I know the front steer rack and pinion will solve a lot of left side problems but that may never happen here.
Another question about the manifolds... Since my pair have the smog tube ports at the rear, block those off or just fab a crossover tube tieing left to right ?
dustoff440
Well-Known Member
If you want to remove shock tower material to fit the dakota headers It appears that you would need at least another 1 1/2 inches off the shock towers to fit the headers. Im with you on the dakota manifolds I couldnt swear it but I am sure their flow rates are much better than 273/318 manifolds and 60 or so bucks for new manifolds isn't bad. I will build a 408 out of a 360 magnum eventually to replace the 360 mag I have now and will at that point asses the exhaust system again but for right now it's going to probably going to be maintenance free, frig free exhaust manifolds. As far as smog ports are concerned the part numbers for the two manifolds in the previous post do not have smog ports on them. There are manifolds available with the ports but if you're hanging them in a smog exempt A body I can't see any reason why you would want them.
moper
Well-Known Member
I wonder if they fit Early A's too....
belmateo
Well-Known Member
x2
streetdak
Well-Known Member
has anyone seen this variation on the dakota headers? they look a slight bit more promising, yet they are $335
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-65643/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-65643/
I already have these with the smog ports. I can close them but I was just thinking .. tieing them together would do about the same thing as the X pipe under the car ? In less volume ofcourse.
dustoff440
Well-Known Member
Now that's using your noggan I wouldn't have thought of them as a mini x pipe
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
im hoping the dakota headers will fit in my street rod,,,if i switch to an LA or MAGNUM,, but im sure they wont fit in any A body
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
has anyone seen this variation on the dakota headers? they look a slight bit more promising, yet they are $335
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-65643/
Those look no different than all the others I've seen. Just a different camera angle on the picture. Just look how the drivers side has all the tubes bunched together and sticking out right where the steering shaft goes through on an A-body. Heck you can barely get regular headers to clear the steering shaft much less those.
HemiEd
Well-Known Member
I kept the manifolds off of my 98 5.2 magnum Durango, when I put the stainless headers on it, if anyone is interested, $50 + shipping.
Looks like I'm gonna have to go this route, these "look" to be less restrictive than my 318 stockers. My Dusta sits low and as I stated before, can't bust 600+ for some headers right now... Thanks Dustoff440... haven't heard "dustoff" since I left the Army...
mopar340dave
Well-Known Member
boneyard magnum manifolds are cheap!
HemiEd
Well-Known Member
I had a couple people interested and wanted me to post pictures of the manifolds, so here you go. Sorry it took me a while, my camera battery won't take a charge, so I had to use the Mrs. camera.
looks like no A.I.R. smog ports on them either, cool...
belmateo
Well-Known Member
Just to be clear, these will fit your car but not an early A-Body. Correct?
According to a guy named Lars, the Dakota manifolds were used in the early A before the second gen A.
http://www.geocities.com/lars_an_artist/durango.html
link nolonger works
I saved most of it...
Installing Durango/Dakota Exhaust Manifolds
in an early A body
A bodies are sadly neglected by the aftermarket industry so it becomes necessary to create your own exhaust system or pay nearly a $1000 dollars for a set of headers. What about Spitfires you ask? If you can contact Old Harold and actually recieve a pair of his $200 tri y headers, consider yourself a minority. After trying for a full year to get a pair I gave up and seached the junk yards for a suitable replacement. Durango/Dakota manifolds were an inexpensive and relitively easy choice. When you purchase them do not let the seller up the price because it came off a 360. The manifold is the same whether it was 318 (5.2) or 360 (5.7). Late 90 units through the early 2000's are best.
Surprisingly enough these exhaust manifolds will fit with some minor tweaking in any 64-66 Dart, Valiant or Barracuda without power steering or 3 on the tree column shift.
The major considerations before attempting this modification are:
A new collector and exhaust will have to be fabricated due to the fact that the collectors are in different positions from the original 273 manifolds.
The clearance between the steering box and the center of the manifold will be tight. The steering shaft may contact as well. I had to trim and grind a little bit for good clearance.
If you have a column shift it may be necessary to consider relocating it to the floor or modifying the linkage.
The benefits are:
The collectors pipes can be up to 2 1/2" wide and still mate to the manifold.
Better exhaust flow due to the larger "log" and on the drivers side, no constrictive flattening of the collector around the starter. (I compare the stock units to trying to "poop" through a cocktail straw).
The manifold bolt pattern is the same on any 273 through 360 engine. You will need Dakota/Durango gaskets. If you have a die grinder this would be an excellent time to gasket match your exhaust ports. The ports are a little smaller than the Felpro gaskets I used. New bolts and studs will have to be purchased as the new manifold does protrude farther out.
Regarding clearance:
If you have old motor mount rubber, I recommend shimming the mounts at the K frame using fender washers or a steel plate to raise the engine slightly. This may be necessary with new mounts as well. Usually a 1/4" is sufficient. (I do not recommend more than 3/4" as the stud on the motor mount will not have enough thread showing to be safe). If it isn't raised it could contact the steering box. This is the tightest clearance. Raising the engine this slight amount will not affect the drive train geometry.
With the thicker profile the passenger exhaust may to too close to the inner fenderwell. I used a 2" diameter steel pipe as a dolly the length of the log and a heavy hammer to make a concave surface. The collectors on both units curve in toward the engine slightly so the collector pipe does not even come close.
Another concideration is the fact that the collectors angle back rather than going straight down. On the passenger side it is important the pipe does not contact the floor board firewall intersection as 40 year old jute padding under the carpet will burn easily. You may find it necessary to dimple the metal at that point slightly and extra insulation is a good idea.
An excellent start to fabricating the exhausts would be to get a larger diameter Y pipe or dual system to section up and reweld it to clear obstructions. I used a Y pipe off of a 78 Diplomat for mine. I also routed the pipe over the starter and then down. Most auto parts stores have exhaust sections that can be welded together in a miriad of configurations as well. However you will need the flanged end of the collector pipe and a like diameter clamp. The original 273 clamp assembly will work but a larger diameter clamp is recommended.
With a little ingenuity you will find there are no insurmountable problems to making this modification.
Good Luck!
http://www.geocities.com/lars_an_artist/durango.html
link nolonger works
I saved most of it...
Installing Durango/Dakota Exhaust Manifolds
in an early A body
A bodies are sadly neglected by the aftermarket industry so it becomes necessary to create your own exhaust system or pay nearly a $1000 dollars for a set of headers. What about Spitfires you ask? If you can contact Old Harold and actually recieve a pair of his $200 tri y headers, consider yourself a minority. After trying for a full year to get a pair I gave up and seached the junk yards for a suitable replacement. Durango/Dakota manifolds were an inexpensive and relitively easy choice. When you purchase them do not let the seller up the price because it came off a 360. The manifold is the same whether it was 318 (5.2) or 360 (5.7). Late 90 units through the early 2000's are best.
Surprisingly enough these exhaust manifolds will fit with some minor tweaking in any 64-66 Dart, Valiant or Barracuda without power steering or 3 on the tree column shift.
The major considerations before attempting this modification are:
A new collector and exhaust will have to be fabricated due to the fact that the collectors are in different positions from the original 273 manifolds.
The clearance between the steering box and the center of the manifold will be tight. The steering shaft may contact as well. I had to trim and grind a little bit for good clearance.
If you have a column shift it may be necessary to consider relocating it to the floor or modifying the linkage.
The benefits are:
The collectors pipes can be up to 2 1/2" wide and still mate to the manifold.
Better exhaust flow due to the larger "log" and on the drivers side, no constrictive flattening of the collector around the starter. (I compare the stock units to trying to "poop" through a cocktail straw).
The manifold bolt pattern is the same on any 273 through 360 engine. You will need Dakota/Durango gaskets. If you have a die grinder this would be an excellent time to gasket match your exhaust ports. The ports are a little smaller than the Felpro gaskets I used. New bolts and studs will have to be purchased as the new manifold does protrude farther out.
Regarding clearance:
If you have old motor mount rubber, I recommend shimming the mounts at the K frame using fender washers or a steel plate to raise the engine slightly. This may be necessary with new mounts as well. Usually a 1/4" is sufficient. (I do not recommend more than 3/4" as the stud on the motor mount will not have enough thread showing to be safe). If it isn't raised it could contact the steering box. This is the tightest clearance. Raising the engine this slight amount will not affect the drive train geometry.
With the thicker profile the passenger exhaust may to too close to the inner fenderwell. I used a 2" diameter steel pipe as a dolly the length of the log and a heavy hammer to make a concave surface. The collectors on both units curve in toward the engine slightly so the collector pipe does not even come close.
Another concideration is the fact that the collectors angle back rather than going straight down. On the passenger side it is important the pipe does not contact the floor board firewall intersection as 40 year old jute padding under the carpet will burn easily. You may find it necessary to dimple the metal at that point slightly and extra insulation is a good idea.
An excellent start to fabricating the exhausts would be to get a larger diameter Y pipe or dual system to section up and reweld it to clear obstructions. I used a Y pipe off of a 78 Diplomat for mine. I also routed the pipe over the starter and then down. Most auto parts stores have exhaust sections that can be welded together in a miriad of configurations as well. However you will need the flanged end of the collector pipe and a like diameter clamp. The original 273 clamp assembly will work but a larger diameter clamp is recommended.
With a little ingenuity you will find there are no insurmountable problems to making this modification.
Good Luck!
belmateo
Well-Known Member
Thank you for showing us that RedFish
HemiEd
Well-Known Member
Actually, I don't know, I have TTI headers on my Barracuda.
I had taken these manifolds off, shortly after buying our 98 Durango (99), and put Edelbrock Stainless headers on it. (no noticeable gain)
I have just been saving them, because they were so nice, almost new, and I am a pack rat, kind of.
I think they are sold, as a I am checking on freight for the first gentleman that asked me.
Speaking of being a pack rat, I noticed when digging these out, that I still have the TTI head pipes, that mate to the early 340 exhaust manifold, slightly used and a little dinged up, before I switched over to headers.
Free for someone that wants to pick them up, or pay the shipping. I just didn't want to toss them, if someone could use them.
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