Dart electrical problem

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Tooner

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So I put a 1979 360 in my dart replaced all electrical except box
New distributor new voltage reg new ristor numerous times
New coil car ran good for three years but now it will run and just shut off and won't
Start till it sits for awhile. Tried changing box i had (orange) but doesn't work I have a five pin gold one in it. Stumped
 
My old man always said, you gotta have spark, and you gotta have fuel, and if you got both and it dont start it probably jumped time. Sounds like you need to hunt for spark and fuel, maybe one of them new parts is no good.
 
Have plenty of fuel it's the spark I don't know about because it just quits like you shut off the key then won't restart for a while
 
I had that happen on my 90 318 EFI D-150. Turned out to be the cam sensor or magnetic pickup in the distributor.
 
I would start by putting old parts back on one at a time till you have the problem solved. Or get a meter and find out where you dont have spark and should.
 
Anything, including the ignition switch, could be the problem. You'll need to get a volt meter. When it quits, check for 12 volts in the places where its supposed to be.
You didn't say what year model Dart.
 
Me and a few others on here have had intermittant contact depending on temperature with the pigtail for the distributor.
Easy to check just bycrimping it a little tighter where the bullet tips go in.
 
I've written skads on troubleshooting these. "Do a search." I get tired of typing

As Red said, "could be anything."

This includes poor supply voltage due to the ever present bulkhead connector, bad ignition switch, and several connectors along the way

Could be the connector right at the ECU, or the distributor connector

Wear in the dist, the pickup or the adjustment. (gap.)

MAKE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN the ECU is grounded!!!

GET A MULTIMETER. We can walk you through some tests.

What do you have for test equipment, service manuals and diagrams?
 
I've had more than one coil do that. It's like a "bi-metal" switch. When it gets hot, it opens a gap inside the coil. When it cools, the gap closes and the electrons flow.

Just my $.02 of experience.
 
Just read in Mopar Action that the magnetic pick up will do that when it goes bad.

I've had more than one coil do that. It's like a "bi-metal" switch. When it gets hot, it opens a gap inside the coil. When it cools, the gap closes and the electrons flow.

Just my $.02 of experience.

Those are the first two things I would check.

Coil or pick up in the distributor.

I have experienced what you are many times over the years and typically it's one of those two items.


Is it random?

When it has happened to me, I might drive 50 miles before it happens, the next time I might make it 10. There is never any consistency to it.
 
I've had more than one coil do that. It's like a "bi-metal" switch. When it gets hot, it opens a gap inside the coil. When it cools, the gap closes and the electrons flow.

Just my $.02 of experience.

Yup. Classic "coil failure."
 
Me and a few others on here have had intermittant contact depending on temperature with the pigtail for the distributor.
Easy to check just bycrimping it a little tighter where the bullet tips go in.
I posted on this w/ photos. Some new pickups in the supply chain have the incorrect type of bullet connector. The male terminal is too short and barely makes contact (I know, many jokes possible). I bought 2 pickups at the same time from rockauto, one was correct (excited male) and one not (wimpy male). Also, the standard double-bullet connector you find in appliances will not mate correctly with your car's connector.
 
Sounds like a weak coil to me I had the same problem and stuck another coil on my duster and solved the problem
 
Sounds like a weak coil to me I had the same problem and stuck another coil on my duster and solved the problem

X2 Drove my duster to its first show last weekend it kept popping out the exhaust and dieing on the way there.We hauled it home swapped a MSD blaster 2 coil on it and its banging like a champ!
 
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