Demon NO Go

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Was reading over everything you said. If you disconnected the fuel line and ran just on the fuel in the bowl it is not the pump. Since you already broke the engine with the 8 degrees it is not the timing. Sounds to me like a definite carb problem. The power valve is only supposed to kick in off idle but it could be ruptured. The idea of the needle and seat or maybe the float sounds more likely. Take the carb apart (again) If the float is hollow see if there is anything inside. If it is the black composite type see how it floats in a dish of fuel. It mighty be saturated. If the float checks out check its adjustments. The needle might be sticking in the seat as well. Since you have already had it running on with the other settings I think the carb is you culprit. Sorry to get all teacher on ya.
:read2:
 
340demon said:
this maybe a dumb question does it run any bette3r after it warns up if so just what happens when the engine is cold
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Spot on with this suggestion.....was too concerned about the fuel visually running out of the venturies that I guess it never had the chance to warm up. :thumbup:

340demon said:
I have a simlar problem with my demon when it is cold(8oocfm eddy) and yes the vapors in the shop will make your eyes water and it will not idle but when it gets warmed up the idle is way to high and must be turn down to about 1000rpm it happens when ever it is stsrted cold must let it warn up for about 5 min. you might try letting it warn up and see what happens.
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Did it today...again dead on and thank you. :cry: The fumes were almost welcome.

340demon said:
have you had let the engine warm up yet when they are cold they have to run rich or the will not run that why stock cars had chokes on ran at a higher rpm and there is heat risers on them I see you are from a warmer area and may not be used to letting car warm up if you do I think your problem will go a way just my ..........02cent
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I like your 02cents....LOL

340demon said:
hey 6 pk that is just what you should see the gas is comming from the low speed jets of the carb because the carb is opened up and the air flow is high enough again that why when it warms up and you can run at a low speed and the carb closes it goes a way and it is running on the idle settings you can not tune a cold eng.
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Oh boy......have I learned a bunch again...:read2:



340demon said:
YEP know about the DEMON thing a job I thought would take 6 to 8 weeks has been going on for 9 mo. now just got it on the road last week look at my post drove it today for pict. I had to take the pan off 4 times and the intake 2 times had header leaks so the were on and off 3 times now the fine tunning starts think will need to change gear ratio or the cam may have too much cam
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Sounds like there is something to the Demon thing for real. I can attest to it. :tongue2:
 
Update from today.....

Started the Demon up with a timing light and vacuum gauge connected. Let it warm up then bumped the timing to 12 degrees initial. Was able to lower the idle down once it was warmed up and no visual signs of raw fuel running into the intake. :-D

It is running much better and confidence is building. It will idle on its' own now although a bit rough. Idle is fluctuating around 900 rpm and vacuum is jumping a bit between 13 - 15 # at idle. Sprayed the intake and carb with WD40 and no immediate RPM change.

Pulled the plugs and most of them are white and dry. Gaining momentum here and thanks for ALL the suggestions.

I am very happy with the progress..........:toothy8:

FABO is :king:
 
Do yourself a favor and verify that your timing marks are correct on the damper. I had a major fubar last year when I mistakenly assumed something about timing marks on a new motor I had built. The engine was so retarded that it was doing exactly what yours was, fuel dripping down from the venturi boosters, what a nightmare. Once I figured out the timing problem all was solved.

Put a positive stop in cylinder one rotate one direction until it stops, mark the damper, then rotate the opposite way until it stops mark the damper again, halfway in between is tdc.
 
You may be able to smooth out the idle some (if your cam isn`t gigantic :) ) by tweaking the idle mixture screws on the outboard carbs. Sounds like you`ve turned the corner though and there`s light at the end of the tunnel. :thumbup:
 
Longgone said:
You may be able to smooth out the idle some (if your cam isn`t gigantic :) ) by tweaking the idle mixture screws on the outboard carbs. Sounds like you`ve turned the corner though and there`s light at the end of the tunnel. :thumbup:
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Thank you Longgone.....cam is just a bit above stock (I can't find the spec card...might have been left w/ the machine shop). And I am thrilled to finally feel like this Demon will run again after many years. =P~

Have yet to find/see the idle mixture screws on the outboard carbs, but am moving waaaaay forward with all the help here.
 
pettybludart said:
Giddy up!!Glad to hear your running better!Now it,s time for some pics. or vids.!!:cheers:
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Yee haw.....pics 2 come....Don't have a clue how to post vids.....Thanks

I am very happy w/ today's progress. :tongue9:
 
hye 6pk I almost gave up on you so glad it is working for you if i can help at any time let me know by the way OLD GUY RULE
 
6pk2goDemon said:
Thank you Longgone.....cam is just a bit above stock (I can't find the spec card...might have been left w/ the machine shop). And I am thrilled to finally feel like this Demon will run again after many years. =P~

Have yet to find/see the idle mixture screws on the outboard carbs, but am moving waaaaay forward with all the help here.
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The screws are in the front of the baseplates and may be leaded over (lean).
 
pettybludart said:
Was it just your timing??
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I think it was a combination of timing, stupidity, and being afraid to let it warm up enough so that the idle could be turned down. :tongue3: :tongue2: :rolleyes::rolleyes:


Longgone said:
The screws are in the front of the baseplates and may be leaded over (lean).
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Will look for those little boogers today.....Assuming they are leaded over, what is the correct way to expose them to get at the adjusting screws?
 
340demon said:
hye 6pk I almost gave up on you so glad it is working for you if i can help at any time let me know by the way OLD GUY RULE
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Please don't give up on me....not out of the woods yet by any means.

The rpm's are fluctuating at will. Still think there may be a vacuum leak, but have not yet found it. After we ran it for a bit, of course, it ran out of gas #-o I don't think I've ever been so happy when my car ran out of gas before...LOL

Decided to pull the new water pump that was leaking from the bleed hole and spraying all over and replace it. Will put the new one on today and try some more poking around.

The spark plugs look awfully white to me...lean I think ??? They are Champion RN14YC.
 
Are you running power brakes, if so disconnect the large vacuum line going from the intake to the booster pot on the brakes and plug the line. This might be where your vacuum is going if the diaphragm in the booster has a hole in it. I wouldn't worry about the plugs just yet until you're ready to go for a blast down the highway. Before you do put in a new set then check them immediately afterwards, 14 are a little hot and you may find you need to go down to 12's.

Terry
 
Thanks for the thought Terry, but manual brakes.

Have a set of Autolite 63's laying around....not sure of the conversion. On the 2nd set of plugs already. Bought the Champs last week for .99 each so I thought they'd be ok until she's running better.
 
Good morning: ok where to go now the plug reading may be off because of running out of gas that would show a lean condition (no gas a lot of air) so does not tell us a lot but i think you may be right about the lean cond. but it is at idle you also may have the vac. leak and your plugs may be 1 or 2 heat ranges to hot not sure I had a eng. that had about the same spec as yours and the plugs that were dead on were champion n13y for street uses. do you know how to read plugs for heat range. old school way of finding vac. leak is with a propane tourch NOT LIT. open the value and put it in the areas you think may be leaking if eng speeds up you found it if not keep looking also you should set the idle mixture first that may be why the idle rpm is unstable good luck hey if you would like we can do this bye pm and keep it a little more priv.
 
Those spark plugs should be closer to N9Y`s. I think you`ll get a cooler engine and a better looking burn from a colder plug. You could also run the Autolite equivalents to the Champion N9Y`s-...... 63`s or do they cross to 12`s??? The access to the idle mixture screws shouldn`t be covered / leaded over (ala Carter AVS`s), but if they are the lead can be carefully drilled out. One of our moderators (John) did a baseplate mod with his set-up and you may be able to see how they are located in his restoration thread. Congratulations on running through your first tank of gas, full or not!
 
What ignition and distributor do you have again? Vacuum advance too?
 
340demon said:
Good morning: ok where to go now the plug reading may be off because of running out of gas that would show a lean condition (no gas a lot of air) so does not tell us a lot but i think you may be right about the lean cond. but it is at idle you also may have the vac. leak and your plugs may be 1 or 2 heat ranges to hot not sure I had a eng. that had about the same spec as yours and the plugs that were dead on were champion n13y for street uses. do you know how to read plugs for heat range. old school way of finding vac. leak is with a propane tourch NOT LIT. open the value and put it in the areas you think may be leaking if eng speeds up you found it if not keep looking also you should set the idle mixture first that may be why the idle rpm is unstable good luck hey if you would like we can do this bye pm and keep it a little more priv.
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I love your propane torch idea and NOT LIT warrants a :bootysha:......:sign5:. I'm a bit worried about a backfire though ?? Sure would be alot cleaner than spraying crap all over the fresh paint and making a mess. If it is safe, I will try this method instead of the WD40 I've been spraying.....

May take you up on the PM idea.....Thank you for the offer. :happy10:



Longgone said:
Those spark plugs should be closer to N9Y`s. I think you`ll get a cooler engine and a better looking burn from a colder plug. You could also run the Autolite equivalents to the Champion N9Y`s-...... 63`s or do they cross to 12`s??? The access to the idle mixture screws shouldn`t be covered / leaded over (ala Carter AVS`s), but if they are the lead can be carefully drilled out. One of our moderators (John) did a baseplate mod with his set-up and you may be able to see how they are located in his restoration thread. Congratulations on running through your first tank of gas, full or not!
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As I said.....was soooo happy to run out of gas, only 6 gallons or so, but :-D

Have a set of Autolite 63's laying around, pretty sure they're used, but look like new. Still not finished with the water pump change out today. Had a little biz to take care of.....maybe will have a couple of hours to devote before the week is out. Thanks for the heads up on the outboard idle screws.

To Be Continued & Thank You All :sign9:
 
moper said:
What ignition and distributor do you have again? Vacuum advance too?
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Mopar Chrome box and stock electronic dist w/ vacuum advance hooked up. Thank you for your help & input Moper :thumbup:
 
The issue is the distributor. First, pull off the vacuum advance hose and plug it. then try to set the idle. What cam is in it?
 
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