Did you shorten your diff.with minitub?

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pettybludart

pettybludart

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I,m doing a mini-tub on my 66 Dart,which I have an 8 3/4 A-body rear with Moser axels.How many of you have have shortened your rear with 15X10 rims?and by how much?What was your width?I,m just wondering if I,ll have to shorten my rear,or just a bigger backspacing?Thanks for any info.:read2:
 
backspace or cutting it works.

I wouldn't cut an A body housing
 
Dang! Sure wish you were closer, Pettyblu. Since you're going to be cutting your rearend down, I'd trade you my B-body 8-3/4 for your A-body. Then you could cut down the B-Body rear to fit your mini-tubbed '66.
Too far from SoCal to ship back and forth.
 
I have a C body 8 3/4 that I will be cutting down. My rims are 15x10 with 5" of backspacing...I am probably going to loose at least 4" per side if not more.

Thanks,
OldMoparsRule!
 
I've been tooling around for 20 years with a B body rear in mine, and it sits one inch to the right too!

Wasn't me, previous owner! I just found this out about a year ago.

anyway, back on topic. I'll be moving the springs in and mini tubing this winter, and have contemplated the same thing.

too little backspacing and you'd probably break axles often.


Needless to say, I am subscribing to see what people say!
 
ocdart said:
Dang! Sure wish you were closer, Pettyblu. Since you're going to be cutting your rearend down, I'd trade you my B-body 8-3/4 for your A-body. Then you could cut down the B-Body rear to fit your mini-tubbed '66.
Too far from SoCal to ship back and forth.
Click to expand...
I have a spare C-body and LBP axels that I will cut if I have too,not cutting the A rear.Too much money in LBP axels(Mosers)

Hoping to maybe get 5-6 inch b.spacing?If they,ll work??Not sure.Need more advise.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARE-CL205516560/
 
shortened it by 2 inches....after tubbing.
 
i haven't done it yet but i bought 15 x 10 draglights with 7.5 backspace...should do the trick just fine...no shortening required...
 
Most people I know that do tub/chassis work buy a wheel & tire they want to run and make the car to fit that size wheel and tire, this eliminates guess work. My 74 Duster is mini tubbed, springs moved in and I just got a set of 15x10 cop wheels done with about 7" b.s. and I made a rookie mistake when doing the rear and the axle is a lil over 3/8" to the right (oops I'll fix it) and these wheels still clear with a 28x12.5/15 MT et street and I have room to spare. My younger brother has done the same frame work to his 72 swinger but he plans to cut a rear end so I'm trading him a B body rear for his A to replace my bent A housing
 
As mentioned, You'll likely need 7-7.5" BS with a stock length A body axle
 
Valiant422 said:
I've been tooling around for 20 years with a B body rear in mine, and it sits one inch to the right too!

Wasn't me, previous owner! I just found this out about a year ago.

anyway, back on topic. I'll be moving the springs in and mini tubing this winter, and have contemplated the same thing.

too little backspacing and you'd probably break axles often.


Needless to say, I am subscribing to see what people say!
Click to expand...
I thought it would be the oppisite,too much b.spacing and you,ll be snapping axels?I could be wrong.Anybody have the theory on too much/too little?Thanks
 
Remember the trend several years ago to make cars look like roller skates with deep dish spoke wheels? They were always coming in to get hubs and axles replaced.


I would imagine both would be bad. Ideally you would want the hub in the center of the width of the rim.
 
"Remember the trend several years ago to make cars look like roller skates with deep dish spoke wheels? They were always coming in to get hubs and axles replaced."

People have been running deep reverse offset on the rear wheels without any problems whatsoever for 50 years. Never heard of an axle being replaced in my life due to this. Keeping the flange close to the spring perch is preferable to deep backspacing...particularly if you are going to race.

I have a narrowed rear in my '66 Dart. It is cut to 50" flange to flange, and the wheels are 12 inch. 4 inches of backspace, and 8 inches of dish. Keep in mind it is TIGHT to the wheel lip. I am currently redoing the wheel openings, but it will still fit the same. Mine were stretched to accomodate 30 inch tall slicks.

Also, I have a '69 C-body (Chrysler 300) 8.75 housing that I am keeping around to cut down if needed. The axles can not be cut down and replined due to them being tapered. I gave them to a buddy who sent them to Moser...Moser sent them back and told them they couldn't do anything with them.
 
I'm running stock A-body width in mine.

IMG_0268.jpg
 
pettybludart said:
I,m doing a mini-tub on my 66 Dart,which I have an 8 3/4 A-body rear with Moser axels.How many of you have have shortened your rear with 15X10 rims?and by how much?What was your width?I,m just wondering if I,ll have to shorten my rear,or just a bigger backspacing?Thanks for any info.:read2:
Click to expand...

After tubbing, put your wheel/tire combination in the wheel wells exactly where you want them, and at ride height. Measure between them, and that is the total width that you want the rear end from axle flange to axle flange. I took my 8 3/4 to Moser and they took care of everything the same day.

streetandstrip7[1].jpg


tread_width.jpg
 
Lots of good info here. I have 2 that I have to think about doing soon so I am soaking this up.8)
 
Narrowed 8 3/4
Half tubbed
15x10 steel wheels
3.5" back spacing
275/60R15 BFG T/A's

DSCF0062-1.jpg
 
I also did the same as Wedgie, order the wheel and tire combo you want, then measure for the axle. My wheels are 18 x 10 with 6" BS, my rear is a 9" Ford that has a flange to flange of 48" and I believe the overall is about 53 1/2".
 
Remember if you are putting the wheels and tires under the car an measuring, they you need to accomodate for the drum brakes also.
 
As mentioned, I would simply purchase the correct back spacing rim. Add up the $$$ for axles and housing length reduction [who does this, and do they have a jig for a "straight" housing?]...purchase the rims, get good axles w/3" studs, maybe even up grade to the larger studs for added security. This will help w/drag way inspection/rules.
 
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