Distributor Vacuum pod to intake manifold interference issue

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I am not understanding how screwing around with 5 lbs and 40 dollars worth of brass is easier than changing the dist gear or the plug wires. Stroke or no stroke.
 
All the 'experts' saying just move this, move that, failed to look at the extra pics Speedy provided in post #30. The electrical connector on the HEI cap sticks out quite a way, limiting how far the cap can be rotated before it hits something.
 

All the 'experts' saying just move this, move that, failed to look at the extra pics Speedy provided in post #30. The electrical connector on the HEI cap sticks out quite a way, limiting how far the cap can be rotated before it hits something.
That's true. The distributor is certainly NOT made for the A body application. I don't like them in the small block A body because the plug wire boots are so close to the firewall you can get a spark show.
 
All the 'experts' saying just move this, move that, failed to look at the extra pics Speedy provided in post #30. The electrical connector on the HEI cap sticks out quite a way, limiting how far the cap can be rotated before it hits something.
I saw that and mentioned it in my post. That's why I recommend leaving it where it was and putting a 90 on the vac can. Sounds like he has solved his problem one way or another and I hope is happily motoring about.
 
My gawd will you PLEAUZE stop UNDERTHINKING this. Very very easy. Either move the wires one hole, or pull the dist and move the gear as Newbomb detailed.

The main reason for the "specified" correct no1 hole position is so that the plug wires lay nice (OEM) and so the assembly line folks can rinse/ repeat, as well, of course, that the dist advance can "sit" clear.

When I got my first car, a 57 Chev 265, I didn't even know there WAS a "correct." I would drop it in, crank it until the oil pump drive engaged, and then bring the marks up on TDC and put no1 where the rotor pointed. I had a 50-50 chance back then because I didn't know about "sticking your finger in" no1 hole to check for compression

Anyhow, I went into one of the local Shell stations, and the pump jock announced, "THAT THINK CAN'T RUN, IT's ALL OUT OF TIME!!!! Well, I drove it in there so I guess it must run??
Point taken, the reason for so many questions is that isn't as easy for me since my stroke, I will get it done just not as fast or as easily. I did try to move plug wires on cap but the HEI dist. is limited in rotation due to the 12v/tac connector terminals on one side of dist. cap (hits firewall) and vac pod on otherside will hit oil pressure sending unit, but the one gear tooth steps the rotor 1/2 the distance, and that should work. So thanks to everyone, and a special thanks to RustyRatRod, who's generous gave all the time & patience was very much appreciated!
 
Point taken, the reason for so many questions is that isn't as easy for me since my stroke, I will get it done just not as fast or as easily. I did try to move plug wires on cap but the HEI dist. is limited in rotation due to the 12v/tac connector terminals on one side of dist. cap (hits firewall) and vac pod on otherside will hit oil pressure sending unit, but the one gear tooth steps the rotor 1/2 the distance, and that should work. So thanks to everyone, and a special thanks to RustyRatRod, who's generous gave all the time & patience was very much appreciated!

I can’t believe we don’t have a member close to you that would be willing to come over to your place and fix this for you.

My crippled *** could fix that in under 20 minutes.

Come on New Jersey, can someone help this man out?

He’s in no shape to do this. Let’s get him some help.
 
He can also get a HEI converted dist from @halifaxhops. Kim

Much Simpler and it's on a factory mopar distributor, not a large hat GM.

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Don't forget to mount the 60,000 E-Core coil and gap your plugs a .050 ths.

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☆☆☆☆☆
 
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