Also even if the oil pump drive is in the proper position for the factory dist doesn’t mean it’s in the right position for the aftermarket dust as some have the rotor offset from the slot on the dust shaft. Turn the crank to line up the timing marks. Check to see if the rotor is pointing to the front just off to the drivers side. That’s the proper location for number 1. If not and it’s pointing to the rear on the passenger side u need to turn the motor over another turn to get the rotor to the front.
Distributor Vacuum pod to intake manifold interference issue
- Thread starter Speedy Pedi
- Start date
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You can only orient the slot in the drive in that direction IF the drive tang is in line with the rotor.
Many of them are not in line with the rotor.
@318willrun just poster a video on his YouTube page covering this.
MobileCustoms
You can twist perceptions, reality won't budge
Sorry to hear about your stroke and the challenges because of it. Good for you for pressing on! Just goes to show not to assume that everyone is on the same level of sharpness as some who are quick to judge or sometimes even ridicule. Hope you get it sorted out! That said, a few more detailed photos of your setup with plug wire location, etc. would sure help to analyze things.
Speedy Pedi
Well-Known Member
I'll get pictures today
Speedy Pedi
Well-Known Member
If there is room (hard to tell from the picture) the easiest option might be to shorten the nipple on the vac advance (It doesn't need to be that long) and put a vacuum elbow on it. Shorten the nipple side of the elbow if necessary. Might be the view of the picture but it looks like the bump out on the cap for the primary voltage wires will hit on the firewall if you try to reindex the distributor counterclockwise. Doing it this way you will still be able to adjust the vac advance. You might have to loosen the cap and rotate the distributor to get at it.
Not much room for an hei in there. There are other smaller cap distributor options also. Good luck with your project.
Not much room for an hei in there. There are other smaller cap distributor options also. Good luck with your project.
I would try pushing the vac can back towards the firewall and move the wires 1 position if that will work. Kim
MobileCustoms
You can twist perceptions, reality won't budge
looks for sure as if all your wires need to be moved 1 tower counter-clockwise, and then you will turn your distributer clockwise to get the timing back to where it is now and the vacuum advance canister will then be clear from the intake as well. The drive gear could be one tooth off as well. First step would be to rotate the engine to top dead center on the compression stroke and then pull the dist cap to see where the rotor is pointing. it should be pointing in the direction of the #1 spark plug at the front of the driver's side.
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Speedy Pedi
Well-Known Member
you are correct 12v primaries wires too close to firewall for that to work. hoping not have to cut nipple short, the counterclockwise reindexing gets me coming and going because the change moves it too much and the dist. hits firewall.
Speedy Pedi
Well-Known Member
The clockwise and counterclockwise reindexing gets me coming and going because the change moves it too much and the dist. hits firewall or the other direction causes the dist. vac. can to hit the oil pressure sending unit
4spdragtop
Well-Known Member
Didn't re-read everything, but is there a pic of helical gear(oil pump drive) at #1 TDC?
Speedy Pedi
Well-Known Member
No, I didn't have a photo of helical gear from when the engine was built in November, I'm not ruling out it's 1 tooth off easy enough to do.
My question is: I'm thinking and please verify this that 1 tooth of pump drive gear clockwise will move vac. pod clockwise to maintain the correct engine timing relationship. If that's true then I might be able to locate that vac. adv. pod to point to passenger fender apron.
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Inertia
Well-Known Member
The tall oil pressure sender won't allow the vacuum pod to move back enuff restricting timing adjustment to a few degrees.
The 90* vacuum end seems like the easy choice, - next is 90* fitting to position oil sender outta the way .
Best choice is get the small cap distributer version, jmo
Good luck
The 90* vacuum end seems like the easy choice, - next is 90* fitting to position oil sender outta the way .
Best choice is get the small cap distributer version, jmo
Good luck
4spdragtop
Well-Known Member
If it were me, that's where I would start. The location of the slot in the pump shaft does NOT matter where it points to because you can reroute your wires, BUT in your case(and in mine a few years back), it makes a difference when trying to get VA adjusted. So the helical gear needs to be adjusted. It'll ramp up and out. Keep everything at #1 compression TDC, back it out and reinstall. Who cares if you get it wrong 1st time?? You will know as soon as dist drops on that it's still "off", pull dist, and helical gear it and adjust as need be.
Yes timing may need to be adjusted, but it should only be a 10 minute job.
Or get the Dorman elbow.
Yes timing may need to be adjusted, but it should only be a 10 minute job.
Or get the Dorman elbow.
He can also get a HEI converted dist from @halifaxhops. Kim
You are certainly tight for room............
Here is another thing you can do & I have done this a few times.....
There is a slot in the dist body that locates the cap. You can file/make a new slot at 90*, 180* or 270*. Whichever position:
[1] locates the dist body where the VA unit can be accessed for adjustment
[2] locates the cap for clearance from other parts. You will need to lengthen the red, yw & black wires.
Here is another thing you can do & I have done this a few times.....
There is a slot in the dist body that locates the cap. You can file/make a new slot at 90*, 180* or 270*. Whichever position:
[1] locates the dist body where the VA unit can be accessed for adjustment
[2] locates the cap for clearance from other parts. You will need to lengthen the red, yw & black wires.
Speedy Pedi
Well-Known Member
I'll make sure to double check the rotor position
Speedy Pedi
Well-Known Member
Halifax is a great source and certainly really knowledgeable no doubt, he does turn out really great work, no doubt in my mind. I'm first gonna make sure verify what I have was installed correctly and try to get correct, before changing any parts though.
There is no need for a different/new dist. You already have the best for your application. In post #41, I described an easy method of re-positioning the cap & body to give you the reqd clearance. Although I mentioned 90* intervals, you could also do 45*. That is, rotate the cap 45*, which is one high tension tower [ 8 cyls, 45* spacing between each tower ] Just moving 45* may allow the red, yw & blk wires to reach without lengthening them. The circumference of the HEI body where the cap fits is 412mm. If you move the cap 45*, you need to make a new slot [ in either direction that is most suitable] that is 51.5mm from the factory slot. Re-position the plug leads accordingly.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Two pages on something that's a 3-5 min fix. I wish I was closer to help this guy out.
Speedy Pedi
Well-Known Member
I clocked the drive gear what I believe is 1 tooth, the slot of dist. drive was pointing straight ahead, front to back. drive was originally pointed at the #1 cylinder. The results was vacuum adv. is off manifold but is limited to 16* advance cause any further is stopped by the oil pressure sending unit contacting the vacuum advance. 16* initial maybe what I'll need but won't know till I can have the car ready for a road test. Didn't expect to that far clockwise unless maybe I went 2 teeth in error?
Does the rotor and the drive slot in the distributor correspond?
how about a 90 or 45 on the oil pressure sender
That's just it. If he gets the distributor in the right spot, he won't have to do any of that.
There are two parts of the dist that have to be in the right spot: the cap & the body. I am basing that on the pics provided.
It is all very well to claim this is a 3-5 min job, but if you are new to this it can be a bit daunting.....several ways of fixing the problem have been suggested & some are wrong & will not fix the problem..
It is all very well to claim this is a 3-5 min job, but if you are new to this it can be a bit daunting.....several ways of fixing the problem have been suggested & some are wrong & will not fix the problem..
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