Like I always say. My car runs great.
Dumping the FBO timing advance plate.
- Thread starter TrailBeast
- Start date
-
My magnum only needs 32 total ( initial + mechanical ). Don’t recall how much VA I have … think its 17 which puts us about the same in the end.
It could be that the thin fbo plate is getting notched at the point of most common rpm . ???
True dat!
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
Thanks. You said it better than me.
The photo is zero advance and the overlay shows about halfway out, in this case about 6 degrees advance.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
There are a few rub marks on the bottom side of the plate, but you can’t feel them. (Top, and both sides in the pic)
mderoy340
Well-Known Member
Those rub marks on the bottom are from the outer spring attachment point.
I bought a plate for my distributor about a year ago.
I set mine at the 14 degree mark and got 15 degrees of advance. Initial at 20 degrees, total went to 35. That is close enough and it worked out quite well. Yeah, I could have welded up the slots but this was far easier to tailor the total timing in less time with less work.
MobileCustoms
You can twist perceptions, reality won't budge
I wish it woulda worked for me because it's a slick idea.
I wish they worked, too. I've tried them in five different applications now. Three for me and two for other people and the results were all the same. Incorrect advance amount from what was marked on the wheel.
gzig5
Well-Known Member
While inconvenient, I don't see that as a total fail. It's already been stated that the slot length doesn't corollate to a specific number of degrees advanced for all distributors. There is variation. Once you see what one slot gives, it shouldn't take too long to figure out what you need to set it too to get what you need. I see it as a convenient method to test different timing combinations before pulling out the welder and files. Mine was off a couple degrees on the first try but I took that into account and nailed it on the second try. I'll use it to setup my new build before I commit to modifying the rotor.
like_A_pike
that's not factory
So after reading all of this I went ahead and bought one anyway. But with the OP issue in mind looked closely and noticed that the inside edges of the slots are not very smooth. I used a small file and worked the edges (especially the right side, thanks Mattax) to ensure the pins slide freely throughout the range of motion. I can't say it is/was TrailBeast's issue but it might at least contribute to an erratic advance curve. Let me see if I can post some pictures with enough detail before I filed it...
Plus there's no danger of a plate making the advance mechanism stick......which has been reported.
Yes I read that...another reason to save $80. Are those charts distributor degrees or crank degrees? I was thinking distributor degrees ie 0.340" for 12 degrees mechanical advance. I guess I will figure it out when I pull it apart.
Almost 100% they are in crank degrees. @crackedback can tell us for sure.
Mine has been flawless. It is also 100% reversible and tunable.
Some people love to bash the quality of a vendor's products. If you don't like the rough edges of the slots, take a file and dress the edges and make it nicer. Yeah, it would be nice if they were smoother but until they are, your options are to tune it up yourself of be a wimp and ***** about it.
Welding slots is cheaper but harder to "tune" and takes longer.
With how bitchy some people are, it is NO wonder that some people don't make the effort to manufacture products for our cars.
Some people love to bash the quality of a vendor's products. If you don't like the rough edges of the slots, take a file and dress the edges and make it nicer. Yeah, it would be nice if they were smoother but until they are, your options are to tune it up yourself of be a wimp and ***** about it.
Welding slots is cheaper but harder to "tune" and takes longer.
With how bitchy some people are, it is NO wonder that some people don't make the effort to manufacture products for our cars.
Crank degrees on that plate. The slot lengths for welding up a factory distributor are distributor degrees. I weld the inside edge.
That's some rough edges for a cnc cut piece. Dressing it is an option. As long as the pin doesn't hang up it the slot, meh...
That's some rough edges for a cnc cut piece. Dressing it is an option. As long as the pin doesn't hang up it the slot, meh...
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
All of which may be true but in this case
a) the OP's had an operational problem - and so he shared his solution. That's not bashing. That's just sharing his experience and how he was resolving.
b) Welding slots is harder for many people due to skill and equipment but it is not harder to tune. In fact its usually easier.
c) Don is not interested in discussion. That's simply a fact. He used to make fly by bombing posts about how right his method was and then be gone. I'm not going to rehash. Crackedback, myself and others have posted about why limiting the inside is generally better than stopping the advance. I know at two cases where I responded to Don's questions and got silence. You can search for them if you want.
I believe Don has fully retired. I don’t know what he’s up to any more because I lost touch with him.
He has his ways. And he’s at least as stubborn as I am.
I am not defending Don, per se.
He has often been a brash, curt and even rude person to deal with.
My comments are general in nature but are true. Some people are just complainers where they could find a problem with a glass of water.
He has often been a brash, curt and even rude person to deal with.
My comments are general in nature but are true. Some people are just complainers where they could find a problem with a glass of water.
I bash solely on experience. They sucked for me.
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
I got that, and I in general agree. I just didn't see where that applied here.
I only poked my head into this thread to answer a question about how the slots and the advance mechanism worked. So now its on my 'watched' alert. When it comes to an aftermarket product, my first instinct is that the purchaser should first ask the seller. I shake my head when people buy stuff and then come here to ask how to install or make it work. We should be last resort rather than first responders.
I didn't say specifically but I was referring to the slot length chart so distributor degrees then. I don't follow 'weld the inside edge'. It was my understanding the inside edges just guide the pin and the end of the slot limits the total travel.
Yep on the asking how things are installed. Most places have these things called "INSTRUCTIONS"
My favorite for years was how do I wire up a MSD-6? You're on the internet, got to the MFing manufactures site and look them up...
Before I got my in with a cnc shop for a while. I was cutting the msd bushing using a hillbilly lathe (File, drill, mandrel and Very Near calipers). The crap I got about how having a superior cnc bushing vs mine made me bust a gut. The cnc was .405 od and mine was say .405 +/- .001, the error for timing the vehicle was miles wider than the variance in the bushing. After a math example (showing the fallacy timing variance in the CNC vs hillbilly) not a peep.
-
Similar threads
