Eagle Cast Stroker Crank- Problems or No Problems?

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I have built 4 (four) 360 based 400+ cube strokers. Three of them had the Eagle cranks. The last one I did was not for me, but a friend that wanted to run nitrous, so we used a Callies 4" crank in that one. As long as the machine work is quality and your assembly is good, you should be ok.
 
4" cast Eagle - Had to get it index ground and the metallurgy looked a bit "dodgy" where it had got hot during the grinding.

Auto 392 cui stroker - 420 HP, 450 ftlbs, 10.5 compression, KB forged slugs, internally balanced.

Sees 6000 rpm at the track, had 30 runs and 7000 street miles.

Been in the car almost two years - No issues so far (fingers crossed)

My engineer told me it balanced up a treat.
 
Eagle cast 4" crank, drag racing, 6300 rpm rev chip in it, no issues and I am not losing any sleep over it breaking.
 
I have used 25 of them in the last 4 years in SBM strokers peak HP about 5500-5800 RPM 490+HP 520+TQ pump gas. None have broke that I know of. The only issue I have had is some come with radius rod journals (need champhered bearings) and some dont.
 
I have an Eagle cast stroker and it runs awesome. Goes threw the traps at 6200 rpm with no issues..
:happy1:
 
I have one to use with a W5 headed roller camed motor I believe that it will be at the edge but my theory is that the ones that are breaking have not been balanced correctly as they come INTERNALLY balanced from Eagle and people think cast crank use external balancer this is not that case with these cranks I had mine balanced by one of Australia's best and at this time we found that if fitted with External balancer over 200 grams of weight would have to be removed from the bob weights at each end and was only 85 with and Internal Balancer then we checked the catalog and low and behold in black and white was INTERNAL balance .
also there are a number of things that can cause a failure of parts and its not allways that part that caused it
 
Sorry dude but if paid the money to get your hands on a set of W5, why cheap out on a cast crank. Forged (or billet) only.
 
yep I hear you! you know the usual story thing weren't ment to go this way but they did started out only being a bottom end change for my j headed setup but they come up at the right price and balancing on the crank was all ready done at this point but I am not ruling out a change to an eagle steel version yet all though I do have a few others running and had no probs yet
 
I gotta ask guys. Why use a cast crank anyways? I mean most people run an internal balance engine and the short block is the most important part of the engine. So you can run a set of cheaper heads (say 1.88 instead of 2.02 because of money, also say you had the 1.88 laying around) you can bolt on a set of heads on later and don't have to pull the motor to do it. Basically I'm saying don't cheap out on the bottom end and over build you motor for the intended power level so you won't have to worry about breakage. This is what I did for my 340 (I can post build spec/parts if you guys want) which makes about 400 HP but all parts are rated for much much higher HP.
 
1970Duster said:
I gotta ask guys. Why use a cast crank anyways? I mean most people run an internal balance engine and the short block is the most important part of the engine. So you can run a set of cheaper heads (say 1.88 instead of 2.02 because of money, also say you had the 1.88 laying around) you can bolt on a set of heads on later and don't have to pull the motor to do it. Basically I'm saying don't cheap out on the bottom end and over build you motor for the intended power level so you won't have to worry about breakage. This is what I did for my 340 (I can post build spec/parts if you guys want) which makes about 400 HP but all parts are rated for much much higher HP.
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I used a cast crank because,

1. I had no need for a forged crank at the power level I built mine too which is approx. 450 hp.

2. I have no plan on upgrading anything later. "It is what it is"

3. I bought it NIB for about 1/2 cost of new.

4. It internally balanced out just fine, no need for Mallory metal. I had my pistons and rods and did the figures before I bought it and saw it would internally balance easily.
 
You have to remember too, when talking a cast crank.. These are not factory cast cranks. They are designed to have better fillets, which is where most breaks occur. Like anything else, ther are great ones, and not so great ones that come from the same factory. I do consider them to be a decent crank for the money. but, they have lmitations and I think Eagle is realistic with what they say (450hp). There are also better cast cranks which are not any better material wise, but are better finish quality wise. It's very easy to exceed that figure with these builds if the right carbs and cams are used. So for me, unless it's a low rpm cruiser, I'll use a better carnk. The MP/Scat cast will make beyond 600hp. I know of one that makes 600NA, and takes 150hp plate on top of it. They are really quite good for a cast crank.
 
cant tell you foe the eagle cranck
BUT I used scat in mine it were cheaper
could have it faster

my engine his making close 600 hp
easy to count 10.79 @129 mph
in a 3200 pounds duster

it goes into the trap at 6900 rpm
I shift it at 6300 rpm
 
Wow, old post....

I broke one. It worked great for 2 years with the automatic - then I put the 4 speed in, and the first full throttle 6000 RPM 1-2 powershift it broke just behind the front main. Shock loading I figure. I stepped up after that to an Eagle forged and beat the snot out of it with no problems. It was properly assembled and internally balanced both times with a new balancer, by a very competent engine shop and was right around 500 horse.
 
Ran a mp cast crank in my 416 n/a many low 11 second passes..no issues with the crank but one of the rods let go..416 will be getting much better rods and a forged crank this time around...
 
stroked340 said:
Ran a mp cast crank in my 416 n/a many low 11 second passes..no issues with the crank but one of the rods let go..416 will be getting much better rods and a forged crank this time around...
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stock rod?
 
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