cchrishefish
Well-Known Member
Yes, they also say it is electronic, bad listing
Echlin Voltage Reglator VR32
- Thread starter cchrishefish
- Start date
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I have another Wells/Airtex 1V1067 new in the box. I can meet you at the C-Store at Exit 42 on the Thruway today. Not late, though. $25. Or delivered to Syracuse today for $50. I would need to know no later than noon.
I think their description is generic when they talk about their circuit boards. I think the Echlin one is the one I bought. Just like the FBO one that Scuder mentioned in his last link above.
cchrishefish
Well-Known Member
I appreciate your offer to meet me very thoughtful, I will just put this off another week, I will just mount the electronic spark box to the firewall for now, and possibly run my wires without actually connecting. I work in the VA hospital on second shift tonight. And I am currently waiting for my Wife's new Rav 4 to receive its first free service.
I used to live in the neighborhood just south of the VA Hospital. My Aunt was an OR nurse there. She retired many years ago. Those few blocks bordered by Route 81, Oakwood Cemetery, and SU/ESF were filled with single family and duplex homes built in the first half of the 20th Century. Lots of families and students. I think they're all gone now, mostly replaced with parking lots and university buildings.
When the Carrier Dome was being built, a construction worker had a Superbird as his winter beater. White, black bench seat, that long pistol-grip shifter handle, punched in nose cone, rotted quarters, and snow tires. I remember him once, slowly driving by me walking on the sidewalk in a heavy snow, and the exhaust was pretty blown out, too. My only car, a sweet '68 Road Runner was garaged of course, so I walked and bummed rides in the winter.
Here's the back of the FBO regulator. No resistor coils. You could easily have one by next weekend. PM me if you'd like the Wells/Airtex 1V1067 mailed for $15.
When the Carrier Dome was being built, a construction worker had a Superbird as his winter beater. White, black bench seat, that long pistol-grip shifter handle, punched in nose cone, rotted quarters, and snow tires. I remember him once, slowly driving by me walking on the sidewalk in a heavy snow, and the exhaust was pretty blown out, too. My only car, a sweet '68 Road Runner was garaged of course, so I walked and bummed rides in the winter.
Here's the back of the FBO regulator. No resistor coils. You could easily have one by next weekend. PM me if you'd like the Wells/Airtex 1V1067 mailed for $15.
cchrishefish
Well-Known Member
My current voltage regular which was the best Napa had, at the time, served me well for 10 years. I was told before not to cheap out on this because it will give me plenty of headaches. Therefore, with that being said, what is the best one on the current market today? I do have the 60 amp alternator.
cchrishefish
Well-Known Member
I think the FBO is probably the best choice, made in USA.
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
I think its a toss up in reality. If its essentially an open circuit, then you are correct. But if its simply a poor connection that flows some current then the VR will attempt to full field. I think that's what Del had in mind.
cchrishefish
Well-Known Member
I currently have my original style voltage regulator grounded to my negative battery terminal.
Slantsix64
Well-Known Member
Are your upgrading your charging system? I would recommend it better charger better start up brighter lights just need to add one wire you will need a 1972 and up alternator and voltage regulator
RustyRatRod
Caput villa stultus
So somebody tell me why the electronic one is "better" for a certain type of ignition system. I haven't really seen that divulged yet. Seems to me all it would be "better" at would be eliminating the mechanical end of the regulator. But, if it's a low quality one, "better" certainly is subjective, isn't it?
Slantsix64
Well-Known Member
Simple
That's the direction I'm going. I'm removing a Wells/Airtex that's worked for eight years, and putting on the FBO. I'm mostly doing it for the look, because my car is low mile, and pretty original. That chrome regulator really stands out, and not in a good way. But, I think I'll throw it in with the fuses and ballast resistor, just in case. I've also heard that covers can be swapped, so if the FBO craps out, I'll probably do that.
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
Same, but I've been using the p-part style regulator since I built the car in '88-9. Unfortunately I can't currently recommend any of those. Mopar Performance recommended them as needed with their ECUs. After I had gone through a couple, they had revised their recommendation to stating the p-part regulators were for racing. This would be around 90-91. But then had one last over 10 years with a MSD 6t. So I don't really know what the issue with them was. I've had Echlin VR 1001 last about 5 years and a couple Standard VR-128s that haven't made it that long before flaking out.
My guess, and its just a guess, is the original application was for Studebaker points type regulator and something in the circuits can't handle the field current draw of a 60 amp squareback. I e-mailed Standard to find out what the specs are, but the 'tech' only had dimensional info.
You know how the points regulators are at idle. They chatter like false teeth. Then with the blower and the turn signal on you're below 12v then above, below 12, then above. The electronic regs. are much steadier and will deliver a more constant signal for the electronic ignition. Just my guess.
RustyRatRod
Caput villa stultus
That makes sense, but even still, the mechanical ones WORK.
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
I agree 100%
Some reasonable guesses here:
The points type regulator must make some electronic noise as the points open. Generally its not too important because the magnetic field reacts somewhat slowly to changes in current through the wires. But some eletronics in Chrysler's (and some other) ECUs probably doesn't like it.
An electronic regulator can hold the voltage a slightly tighter range (just going from the specs in the FSMs). We're talking fractionally better here, not something earthshaking.
I haven't found any good reason why a ground controlling regulator would be better than positive controlling regulator. Looking at how Chrysler's 70 and up regulator works, its still just a switching device going quickly back and forth between three positions.
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
Is that chattering in the VR ? or is it the ripple current showing through because the rpm is so low? I see it when using an the electronic VRs mentioned in my post above with higher output squarebacks and revised squarebacks.
???
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RustyRatRod
Caput villa stultus
On my instrument panel voltage regulator for example, it's not quite "teeth chattering" frequency. I can sit there and see it in the gauge operation. It's more like open....close...open...close. "About" that slow. You can see the gauges fluctuate up and down very slightly. The main voltage regulator may work much faster, though, I don't know. Regardless, it works.
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
I had an analog voltmeter attached to the temp gage connector. It bounces back and forthjust like you describe
Yes, points going closed and open. The mechanical regulator isn't the smoothest output at low speeds.
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I can hear it and see it on the amp meter. Turn the headlights on at night and the lights do flicker at idle. The electronic regulator didn't do that.
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
That's funny, on my Barracuda I can't hear it but I can see it like you describe with the electronic regulators I mentioned above. I'm going to try that FBO regulator and see if its any different.
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