edelbrock heads

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75ddart

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Thinking of doing some upgrades on my stock low comp 360 and was thinking of a head swap, cam change and possibly headers to boost some more power without pulling the motor and piston swap, so my question is has anyone just swapped edelbrock heads out of the box and noticed any difference ? Thanks...:D
 
Edelbrock Performer RPM heads are a huge step up in breathing from most stock SBM heads. What head PN is on there now?
 
Stock heads are 587's with a 3 angle valve job but completely stock. Don't mean to open a can at least not my plan ha, ha. I looked on the NHRA engine blueprint page and was told before that the 75 blocks had like 8.0 to 8.2 compression but the blue print shows 9.0, so I don't know what it really has other than pulling it apart which right now is not the plan. I know it has the dish pistons and even the NHRA site verify's this. Iput new bearings in it about 3 years ago and had a local shop do the heads but didn't completely dis assemble the motor being it had just 80 k on it at the time and just over that at this time. Runs good but would like to possibly do some upgrades for some track time next year, possibly get into the mid to low 12's in the 1/4.
 
Been thinking of heads, cam, headers, maybe 391's and bigger carb would get me where I would want to be. Heads would be a weight savings for sure.
 
Well, guess it wont hurt power at least, but if you have a fairly stock camshaft now, i dont think youll notice much. Guess the power holds on further tho.
You better start a thread and ask for the optimal camshaft for ootb eddys:)
Good luck

Edit: last post sound like a wey healthy plan!! Save up money untill you can buy a complete package of a known combo that make around 400hp,guess it will get you in the low 12s
 
I really thought you were going to get slammed with a slew of "don't do it's" - many on here have cautioned against using any aftermarket head "straight out of the box" - too many manufacturing variables - have them checked by a good machine shop before you use them.. a few bucks now could save you hundreds later...
 
A Friend on here is Selling his RHS heads, Intake and Rocker Setup. His heads were ported by Brian at IMM, You may want to contact him before you spend the money on Eddy and then have the work thats needed to make them run, since they are not good out of the box to bolt on and go. He is in California his SN is Dustya_383
 
Buy the Edelbrocks and don't look back. When they first came out there was some issues with the guides clearances being tight and causing issues. There have been many sets ran straight out of the box with no issues too. For peace of mind you could have the guide clearances checked at your local machine shop.

Buy the small chamber version.
 
Any issues OOTB have tended to be small from all I have read and researched, but it's wise to correct any. Our Edelbrock Performer LA heads were found to have burrs in a few guides, and there were some valves not perfectly concentric with the seats. It took $110 of work to correct and the runner/pocket below the seat was opened up with a Serdi machine. (Our machining price iss probably lower than average, so YMMV.)

If you buy, keep and eye on the Autozone online sales of 20% off; you will get that % discount and free shipping. You do pay sales tax if AZ has a presence in your state. It is a good deal; if you sign up for their notices, you will get these notices automatically. (I have NO association with Autozone BTW; theirs is just the best deal I have found on Edelbrock items like this.)

IMO, there are 2 chamber sizes for SBM LA heads: 63 and 65 cc. You can buy the one that fits with your computations of SCR and DCR, but I too would prefer the 63 cc ones so you can upgrade later to pistons and have a quench gap. You ought to figure up your present pistons and deck height to do this right. But, I am sure that the present CR can be estimated without too much error.

These heads + an AL intake will save you around 65-70 lbs off of the front end.

You should get a low end torque increase simply due to the increased CR, regardless of cam. Any cam question WILL be a can of worms....LOL.
 
I guess the majority of eddys in the world is running OOTB.
they say you need at least 10 happy customers to add up for one dissapinted.. we newer hear about the 99 of 100 that just put them on and drive away ;-)
 
I guess the majority of eddys in the world is running OOTB.
they say you need at least 10 happy customers to add up for one dissapinted.. we newer hear about the 99 of 100 that just put them on and drive away ;-)

There's a big difference between the everyday guy thinking he knows something, buying the heads and running them. Then there's the machinst who does it for a living and sees the crap eddy sends to its customers.
 
It's not just Edelbrock, it's a good idea to check anything you buy.

New out of the box Comp lifters. All eight pairs had this to some degree.

 
Been running Edelbrocks on 2 different engines well worth the money spent..will never use iron heads again except to keep the door open..
 
Just some rough calculations show that one will go up in compression ratio by about 0.6-0.65 points with the head change alone; you will indeed notice that change by itself. And the flows will be better across the board so even with smaller cams, there will be more torque/power.
 
Thanks for the replies, all give me some thoughts on possible future upgrades. I have a local machine shop that builds racing motors so I can have the heads checked by them if I go that route.
 
any truth to the theory aluminum bleeds heat off better and requires
higher compression to make the same power an iron head makes?
 
any truth to the theory aluminum bleeds heat off better and requires
higher compression to make the same power an iron head makes?

No, but if your motor required 93 octane (or better) gas, and you still had knocking sometimes, it will go away with the aluminum heads. And you might even get away with cheaper gas, I put OOB Eddys on my 340 about 5 years ago, and never had one problem with them.
 
I work in an engine shop, yes, do get the Eddy heads checked

If your budget can afford it & you don't have them at the moment may I suggest getting an adjustable valve train with correct rocker ratio, the OEM ratio isn't the greatest
 
Since the al heads suck so much heat out of the chambers, installing them is like dropping the compression between .5 and 1.0, so I have concluded.And it does this at the worst possible time; anytime the engine is not at WOT.
So if you really want them,and you do a lot of non-WOT driving, they willwork best with a compression increase. Then that leads to Dcr theory, and squish/quench.

So heres a successful recipe;
http://www.hughesengines.com/TechArticles/11360dynotestfeb2000.php

I run a very similar combo, on 87E10 @ about 800ft elevation. Very sweet.
 
A Friend on here is Selling his RHS heads, Intake and Rocker Setup. His heads were ported by Brian at IMM, You may want to contact him before you spend the money on Eddy and then have the work thats needed to make them run, since they are not good out of the box to bolt on and go. He is in California his SN is Dustya_383

An excellent suggestion!

I guess the majority of eddys in the world is running OOTB.
they say you need at least 10 happy customers to add up for one dissapinted.. we newer hear about the 99 of 100 that just put them on and drive away ;-)

Then I'll be number 2 here to say I ran the Edelbrocks OOTB & have been happy with them. All I did was look at them myself and flounder no flaw worth getting all up tight about. It's been 15 years now. No issues.

I work in an engine shop, yes, do get the Eddy heads checked
Always worth the money spent on checking if you do not know what your looking for.
If your budget can afford it & you don't have them at the moment may I suggest getting an adjustable valve train with correct rocker ratio, the OEM ratio isn't the greatest
 
I recently used a set of eddies dated Nov 2014. Tried to pull the valves out and they were all jammed in the guides. Sent them to my machinist who honed the guides, machined the warped decks and did a valve job as several valve seats werent concentric. However i was expecting this as its pretty normal for out of the box heads to be all over the place.

Could have run them as they were but didnt want guides that are flogged out in 20k miles and lost power from leaking valves
 
Since the al heads suck so much heat out of the chambers, installing them is like dropping the compression between .5 and 1.0, so I have concluded.And it does this at the worst possible time; anytime the engine is not at WOT.
So if you really want them,and you do a lot of non-WOT driving, they willwork best with a compression increase. Then that leads to Dcr theory, and squish/quench.

Any dyno tests to back this up?
 
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