EFI Bung in head update

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well, I got a FTDI tti/usb arduino board on the way that Ill install in the MS so I wont need a serial cable anymore. I made a straight cable with cat5 and 2 DB9 M/F ends and it didnt work. Ohm'd out the wires and everything. Ill try it again with only the 3 pin mentioned. I tied every one in but that may have introduced a lot of noise. I dont need power, is that on 5 or 1? 5 and 9 were not used on another example. FTDI has a slick DB9-USB convertor, drops right into a PC boards DB9 footprint pin for pin but its a USB socket, you just remove your MAX232 chip and jump 14-11 and 13-12 in the socket, voila! Tried a Prolific (I think, one was a good looking company supplied 25 pin and one was a cheap 9 pin obvious counterfeit $1.34 cent EBAY joke. NO drivers worked on it) both never saw my MS, but could do a loopback on both once the cheap driver loaded correctly for one time. no biggie.
 
On a nine pin DB9 pin 2 is rx, pin 3 tx, pin 5 signal ground. On DB25, pin 2 tx, pin 3, rx, pin 7 ground. Note pins 2 and 3 change. Then things get more complicated, since it depends on DTE or DCE. DTE is typically the PC, and DCE the MS, but DTE and DCE can sometimes be swapped in settings with old hardware ports.

Rx connects to tx at other end. Tx is transmitter, rx is receiver. When working in the field, with bear skins and stone knives, swap pins 2 and 3. One way will work, one not, no damage if wrong. There are breakout boxes with jumpers and leds that some use. I use scope and terminal emulator to send characters and see what is transmitting. Once you get it right all is well. So if loop back works, it is only a matter of getting 2 and 3 correct, and ground connection.

There is no power per RS232 standard, unless stealing only in mA from a handshake signal.
 
This calls out for a straight cable ..about 3 times. 2-2, 3-3, 5-5. Will try Cat5 again as it has been used before up to 200 feet on some sites down at 9600 so 3 feet should be good at 115k.
 
Did exactly as said last night. Was getting loopback garbage even when the male db9 end was laying on the floor not hooked to anything or looped. I think the issue is in the male db9 end i have. I cut lines one by one at solder joint and it cleared only when tip was cut. Back to drawing board...but all lines ohm out perfect??? Whatever. USB for me!
 
OK, some more bits from pick a part 1/2 price days. Ford EDIS-6 module, VR, coil pack and wires, Caddy IAT sensor and a good old Mopar slant 6 P/S pulley that Ill CNC 36-1 teeth into for my trigger wheel. Ford EDIS is super easy on a Megasquirt, only 2 wires! And no more distributor, locked out or advanced, electronic or whatever, it just connects the oil pump now.
 

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What MS are you using?
That will help me diagnose the rs232 problem. Perhaps they are using handshake wires too. When you get loopback garbage is that on the PC end with 2 and 3 connected on the other end?

If that happens without cable at PC end, it is serial port problem. Other wise, the hard to read pin numbers may be off, and using 1, 3, 4 at one end.
 
I don't think you even need the distributor at all on the slant. the pump has the gear on it. you could just plug the hole with a freeze plug.
 
I don't think you even need the distributor at all on the slant. the pump has the gear on it. you could just plug the hole with a freeze plug.

oh, me thinking LA style....if that's the case, asta la vista!

using MS-2 chip on a V2.2 board.

Serial port issue rectified. even a cobbled cable on my OLD serial port equipped laptop works fine, so the issue was related to the DB9-DB25 convertor that was rolling Tx and Rx and the crappy USB adapter. I still have the Arduino USB to serial board to install. Ill get a blue tooth next. They have a cool android app now. forget your dashboard, just use your tablet now!
 
using MS-2 chip on a V2.2 board.

the issue was related to the DB9-DB25 convertor that was rolling Tx and Rx!



LOL. You have to be carefull of the 9--to25 adaptors, some were made as "null."

Back in the "DOS Days" I used to use Laplink and a little file in Xtree Gold called something like "XtreeLink." Hell I even managed to get Microsoft's (it wasn't really theirs) link program to work, but I found it to be a PITA. The advantage of Laplink and Xtree was that you could set up the same program on both machines,

But I digress into the past.............LOL
 
OK, some more bits from pick a part 1/2 price days. Ford EDIS-6 module, VR, coil pack and wires, Caddy IAT sensor and a good old Mopar slant 6 P/S pulley that Ill CNC 36-1 teeth into for my trigger wheel. Ford EDIS is super easy on a Megasquirt, only 2 wires!
Smart idea using an extra pulley for the trigger wheel, though cutting the slots uniformly may not be easy unless you have a good milling machine. I paid $40 for one on ebay, incl. a custom hole to fit my small block's pulley. Still thinking about how to do it elegantly on my slant. Making a mount for the VR sensor may be tricky. I saw a youtube video of EDIS on a slant a year or so ago. The bracket was really hanging out in space. It was easy on my small block, using 2 water pump bolts. I made a bracket for both the Ford VR sensor and a Mopar Hall-effect type (from my 3.8L engine). Not sure the later could trigger the EDIS module, and it needs 8 V power.
 
Bill. my new idea is to CNC mill 5 mm teeth into the back rim of the pulley/balancer itself. I realized my fan is about an inch from my balancer as is so I cant mount the pulley in the front and the front lip already has a huge scallop out of it for some reason, maybe balance? anyway, got some stuff done today. EFI head on block, intake and plumbing all mocked up. waiting for new head and intake gasket. Found out my really old EFI head has NO alternator bracket bolt hole! Oh man, back to the drawing board....
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You ran through the same casting number years ago in another thread. You believed it was a very early 60 head (oops block casting number was discussed) back then too. It has no alt tensioner hole up at the upper rad area (as the alt was on the pump side back then)AND it has no upper (3rd) alternator stand bolt hole that bolts into the head (as it was not used yet). There is no meat up top either for a bolt so Ill have to make a little 90 bracket off the stat housing bolt for the tensioner.
 
Pista, that has to be about the coolest slant build yet. When knowledgeable people peer under the hood at a car show, they will gasp. Of course, you would have to endure clueless "experts" who say "nice small block".

Your driver's side body is looking like my C-body, which has the UCA bushing ends exposed in the engine bay, with curved bolt-on inner fenders around the UCA. You might look at one of those for ideas how to replace the supports and sheet metal. I think a triangular top brace from the side to the shock support would be sufficient structure.
 
That is an awesome project-regardless of who was first with the idea, that's a really cool concoction of homegrown and spare parts engineering.
 
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Your driver's side body is looking like my C-body, which has the UCA bushing ends exposed in the engine bay, with curved bolt-on inner fenders around the UCA. You might look at one of those for ideas how to replace the supports and sheet metal. I think a triangular top brace from the side to the shock support would be sufficient structure...
can you elaborate> Where is the triangle coming from? I plan to run J bars from the firewall to the base of the radiator support on the frame and then tie in the shock mount tops to those.
 
Another hurdle passed, I got my trigger wheel made. I was unhappy with my first hack job on a pulley that turned out to be not so round and not so true so I went back to OEM engineering and just milled some teeth into the back of my balancer. Its true, round and thick enough to trigger the sensor, and it was free! (well, if you count a buddy that has access to a $xM aerospace 5 axis CNC mill). Might be easy on any mill but setup time and know how is beyond me. Will work fine. Yeah, its on the rubber isolated ring, but this timing hasnt changed in 53 years.....just need to tack weld mount into position and clean/paint. Belt goes right around it. Getting closer.
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Now that's what I call engineering.
 
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