Electric cooling fan?
- Thread starter GMAN1953
- Start date
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BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
I think that in many production RWD cars the extra electric fan is mainly for the AC. At least, in my 1980's M-B cars it only comes on from the AC refrigerant temp switch. You could also wire one to come on from automatic tranny fluid temp if using an add-on cooler. The after-market ones are fairly wimpy, but would help for above.
To really help, people like the Ford 2 spd fans from the 90's (Taurus, Crown Vic?). Much info on the H.A.M.B. hot rodder site.
To really help, people like the Ford 2 spd fans from the 90's (Taurus, Crown Vic?). Much info on the H.A.M.B. hot rodder site.
Rectilinear
Who let this guy in here?
We always convert our 240's and 740's to run the later style Volvo 940/960 e fan. They are cheap and easy to find. They come with a 2 speed relay. I always wire mine up to run any time the key is in position II. In summer, I run it on speed 2 and on speed 1 in winter.
I started an install on my '68 with the 960 radiator as well....
I started an install on my '68 with the 960 radiator as well....
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
What kind of motor do you have?
A slant can get away with a much wimpier fan than a stroked 360.
I run a 17" thermostatic controlled fan in my car, set up fully automatic and it works great.
When I change to the 360 Mag I'll have to change it out for a fan clutch setup because the electric won't keep up.
I have seen built V8's run 2 hi speed electrics with a shroud and get away with it.
The motor matters as to what you can do.
I have a 360 30 over forged TRW pistons, 508-292 cam in '72 Swinger. The car does not overheat, just looking for options.
Regards; G
Regards; G
Thanks for the pics and info !!!!
Regards; G
Regards; G
We always convert our 240's and 740's to run the later style Volvo 940/960 e fan. They are cheap and easy to find. They come with a 2 speed relay. I always wire mine up to run any time the key is in position II. In summer, I run it on speed 2 and on speed 1 in winter.
I started an install on my '68 with the 960 radiator as well....
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
I love what Rectilinear has done. A guy with a Volvo and Mopars, let's see what will fit. I try the same with M-B parts. Get enough owners with combinations and we will have multiple backup plans. I don't know where the radiator in my 64 Valiant came from, but it works. The also put a M-B pusher fan in front. Looks like a job by a Mexican shop further south. They make it work. Pity the next guy who gets our cars, though I don't plan to ever sell my babies.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
Please note that's a cross flow rad,, That fan combo would be less functional on a conventional A-body down-flow rad.....
SO it got up to 210 driving on interstate at 60 mph for 15 miles in 85*.....I do have a 4 row aluminum rad with factory blade fan...looks like I need to try electric to see if I can keep it cooler.
G
pishta
I know I'm right....
That volvo fan looks strange, fully enclosed? Looks pretty slim too. Those ford dual speed fan are scary powerful, i think they take a 40A relay to start them! I have an aluminum radiator designed for an early mustang. Drilled 2 more bolt hole and it fit like a glove. Driver side inlet.
95-2000 Ford Contour fans. They fit a Champion 26" radiator like they were made for it...
I use a Dakota Digital controller to run the fans wired through a couple of relays. Goldduster318 has a whole write up of how to do it. I have more info and part #'s on my build thread. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1970313646&postcount=66
So far, they've worked awesome to keep my 340 cool. And it's .060" over, 9.8:1 compression, Lunati 60404 cam (.513/.533, 276/285 adv. duration), headers, ported 308 heads, etc. So, it's not exactly a mild 340.
I use a Dakota Digital controller to run the fans wired through a couple of relays. Goldduster318 has a whole write up of how to do it. I have more info and part #'s on my build thread. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1970313646&postcount=66
So far, they've worked awesome to keep my 340 cool. And it's .060" over, 9.8:1 compression, Lunati 60404 cam (.513/.533, 276/285 adv. duration), headers, ported 308 heads, etc. So, it's not exactly a mild 340.
TylerW
Well-Known Member
Yes. Have a plan for if the fan quits with or without you knowing.
Um, it's pretty easy to know if the fan quits, it doesn't come on at the specified temperature and your temp gauge keeps climbing.
As far as a plan, its the same for pretty much every car made in the last 20-25 years, otherwise known as the millions of cars on the road with nothing but electric fans. It's called "pull-over, shut it down, call AAA". Or maybe just drive home and keep an eye on the gauge, depending on the weather and traffic conditions.
You know, pretty much the same thing you do if your fan belt breaks. Or if your fan clutch craps out. Unless of course the fan clutch comes apart and eats your radiator, in which case your plan is "try not to crash, pull over, shut it down, call AAA".
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
That raises the question why manufacturers of new cars don't add a sensor to indicate that the electric fan is commanded, but an open circuit (no current flow). Even easier would be a high coolant temperature audible chime (some might have that). Must be for cost. Almost all new engines have aluminum heads which are very sensitive to warpage from overheating. Our engines are much more robust and can usually run until the oil overheats before they are damaged. You could rig a temperature switch in the coolant flow (ebay) and wire to a 12 V alarm in the dash, but a bit of work.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
One of my past cars I had the guage, the idiot light AND and buzzer for temp, alt, and oil.
If any of the above quit working the light came on as did the buzzer and it showed on the guage.
I had switches for turning off the buzzers if I wanted, because when you first turned on the key the oil pressure and alternator buzzers would both be on as well as the lights for each.
All you do is wire the buzzer into the idiot light circuit, and a switch inline with it in case you want to turn it off.
This way a person could even be standing outside the car and know if the oil pressure dropped, or it got hot, or it quit charging.
I usually turned the buzzers off until the car was running and then turn them on, so I didn't have to hear them screaming when starting the car.
If any of the above quit working the light came on as did the buzzer and it showed on the guage.
I had switches for turning off the buzzers if I wanted, because when you first turned on the key the oil pressure and alternator buzzers would both be on as well as the lights for each.
All you do is wire the buzzer into the idiot light circuit, and a switch inline with it in case you want to turn it off.
This way a person could even be standing outside the car and know if the oil pressure dropped, or it got hot, or it quit charging.
I usually turned the buzzers off until the car was running and then turn them on, so I didn't have to hear them screaming when starting the car.
Shainesboostin
Well-Known Member
What water pump are yall running when going electric fan? Electric water pump? Or just unbolting the fan and clutch calling it good?
I just run a stock style water pump. It's a GMB high flow, but externally it's the same as the original stuff. Just run the pulley without the fan. I run a serpentine belt on mine, but that's just because I had a heck of a time solving a belt throwing problem, not because of the electric fans.
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