Electrical/starting problems

[Ohio66Cuda]

66 Barracuda, 360 auto

Several months ago I made the mistake of working on my dash without disconnecting the battery. The result was disastrous. There was smoke, crackling and burning. Of course, after that I couldn't start the car and no electrical accessories worked. I took my time and went over all the wiring from the bulkhead connector to the engine compartment and checked the internal wiring to the bulkhead connector. The fusible was replaced. The R6/R6A connection was replaced with a direct wire through the firewall. The J3 connection from the ignition switch to the bulkhead connector was also replaced. After everything was put back together, nothing happens when the ignition switch is turned and no electrical accessories work.

Any suggestions as to what I should check or what to look at would be greatly appreciated.

 

[KitCarlson]

Have you checked battery voltage, and voltage at big stud on starter relay?

Were the red and black leads connected to amp gauge when installing instrument panel?

 

[Ohio66Cuda]

Have you checked battery voltage, and voltage at big stud on starter relay?

Were the red and black leads connected to amp gauge when installing instrument panel?

The red and black leads were definitely connected to the amp gauge when the instrument panel was installed.
I will the battery voltage and the voltage at the stud. Good suggestion.

 

[Ohio66Cuda]

The red and black leads were definitely connected to the amp gauge when the instrument panel was installed.
I will the battery voltage and the voltage at the stud. Good suggestion.

The battery voltage is good. 12.3v. No voltage at the large stud on the starter relay.

 

[KitCarlson]

A good charged battery measures 12.6 to 12.7V. The battery cable connects to starter, and also has a link from battery terminal to starter solenoid lug. So your problem may be in battery cable, or poor connection at post. Are you familiar with servicing battery terminals?

 

[Ohio66Cuda]

A good charged battery measures 12.6 to 12.7V. The battery cable connects to starter, and also has a link from battery terminal to starter solenoid lug. So your problem may be in battery cable, or poor connection at post. Are you familiar with servicing battery terminals?

There's no problem with the battery terminals. I'm familiar with servicing them. I'm going to check the connection from battery to the starter and the connection from battery to the starter solenoid lug.

 

[KitCarlson]

They should be electrically connected. On a 66, that originally was done at the battery lug.

 

[Ohio66Cuda]

They should be electrically connected. On a 66, that originally was done at the battery lug.

 

[Ohio66Cuda]

Is the starter solenoid part of the starter or is it separate?

 

[KitCarlson]

It is part of the starter assembly, it engages the bendix gear to the flywheel.

 

[Ohio66Cuda]

It is part of the starter assembly, it engages the bendix gear to the flywheel.

Checked the connections to the starter. The starter looks to have two connections. One with a large stud and another with a smaller stud. The connection from the larger stud to the battery is good. The connection from the smaller stud to the battery isn't good. If this is the problem, should I look at replacing the battery cable (if one is even available) or just run a new connection from the battery to the small lug?

 

[KitCarlson]

The smaller stud on solenoid of starter, goes to small stud on starter relay (S5 #12 Brown). The (A1A #10 Black) wire from battery +, goes to big stud on starter relay. I think your description or wiring is in error.

It is possible to use replacement terminals, with crimp and bolt connections. I did a post a few months ago. A tale of battery cables

 

[RedFish]

You said you replaced the fusible link. So afterwards or up to now, Did you ever get power inside?

 

[Ohio66Cuda]

You said you replaced the fusible link. So afterwards or up to now, Did you ever get power inside?

The smaller stud on solenoid of starter, goes to small stud on starter relay (S5 #12 Brown). The (A1A #10 Black) wire from battery +, goes to big stud on starter relay. I think your description or wiring is in error.
You are correct. I misinterpreted the cables from the starter. The large stud goes to the battery. The cable on the small stud parallels the larger cable until it gets close to the battery post but then there's a large black blob over both cables. The smaller cable runs back to the starter relay. The connection from the starter solenoid to the starter relay checks out.
My next task is to recheck the wiring from the ignition switch.
It is possible to use replacement terminals, with crimp and bolt connections. I did a post a few months ago. A tale of battery cables

 

[Ohio66Cuda]

You said you replaced the fusible link. So afterwards or up to now, Did you ever get power inside?

No. After I connected everything up, there was no power to anything.

 

[KitCarlson]

I think adding your text to my quote makes following this difficult.

Ohi66Cuda said, "You are correct. I misinterpreted the cables from the starter. The large stud goes to the battery. The cable on the small stud parallels the larger cable until it gets close to the battery post but then there's a large black blob over both cables. The smaller cable runs back to the starter relay. The connection from the starter solenoid to the starter relay checks out.
My next task is to recheck the wiring from the ignition switch."

Back to post #4. Do you have battery voltage at large post of starter relay?

 

[RedFish]

No. After I connected everything up, there was no power to anything.

Well... I don't know what you did wrong but until you get power into the cab ( and through that weld splice most often seen in a madelectrical drawing ) nothing will work. Lets try to get dome light, brake lights, turn signals, before we go for start.

 

[KitCarlson]

Having power to large stud of starter relay is important! It is fed from battery, it then goes to bulkhead connector via fusible link, see post #12.

 

[Ohio66Cuda]

I think adding your text to my quote makes following this difficult.

Ohi66Cuda said, "You are correct. I misinterpreted the cables from the starter. The large stud goes to the battery. The cable on the small stud parallels the larger cable until it gets close to the battery post but then there's a large black blob over both cables. The smaller cable runs back to the starter relay. The connection from the starter solenoid to the starter relay checks out.
My next task is to recheck the wiring from the ignition switch."

Back to post #4. Do you have battery voltage at large post of starter relay?

Right now I've got the gauge cluster out for testing. I'll have to reassemble that before I'll connect the battery back up. I don't want to have any more smoke and sizzle on the wiring I've just replaced.

 

[RedFish]

So the big red wire that goes on the ALT' gauge is the hot smoke and sparks maker. What I would do is use a small nut and bolt to attach it directly to the big black wire, Tape or otherwise isolate this connection and hook the battery up. If the dome lamp comes on, headlights, brake lights, and more should work too.. You'll know your repairs were good and the ALT' gauge is where the fault is/was. If still no power no where, Disconnect battery and hunt the broken link/power loss on the red wire back toward firewall and beyond.
If no fault found on the red side, the fault has to be on the black side, so chase that wire toward the weld splice.

 

[Ohio66Cuda]

So the big red wire that goes on the ALT' gauge is the hot smoke and sparks maker. What I would do is use a small nut and bolt to attach it directly to the big black wire, Tape or otherwise isolate this connection and hook the battery up. If the dome lamp comes on, headlights, brake lights, and more should work too.. You'll know your repairs were good and the ALT' gauge is where the fault is/was. If still no power no where, Disconnect battery and hunt the broken link/power loss on the red wire back toward firewall and beyond.
If no fault found on the red side, the fault has to be on the black side, so chase that wire toward the weld splice.

Thanks for the input. I'll be your methodology this weekend and see if I can find where the fault is.

 

[Ohio66Cuda]

I think adding your text to my quote makes following this difficult.

Ohi66Cuda said, "You are correct. I misinterpreted the cables from the starter. The large stud goes to the battery. The cable on the small stud parallels the larger cable until it gets close to the battery post but then there's a large black blob over both cables. The smaller cable runs back to the starter relay. The connection from the starter solenoid to the starter relay checks out.
My next task is to recheck the wiring from the ignition switch."

Back to post #4. Do you have battery voltage at large post of starter relay?

Yes. I rechecked and I'm measuring voltage at the large stud on the starter relay. Connection from battery to starter relay looks solid.

 

[Ohio66Cuda]

So the big red wire that goes on the ALT' gauge is the hot smoke and sparks maker. What I would do is use a small nut and bolt to attach it directly to the big black wire, Tape or otherwise isolate this connection and hook the battery up. If the dome lamp comes on, headlights, brake lights, and more should work too.. You'll know your repairs were good and the ALT' gauge is where the fault is/was. If still no power no where, Disconnect battery and hunt the broken link/power loss on the red wire back toward firewall and beyond.
If no fault found on the red side, the fault has to be on the black side, so chase that wire toward the weld splice.

I connected the red and black leads bypassing the alt gauge and hooked up the battery. Still no lights or turn signal. I disconnected the battery and disconnected the red and black leads. The red lead is a solid connection all the way back to the starter relay large stud. The black lead is a solid connection back to the alternator. I don't know what to check beyond those connections.

 

[RedFish]

Sounds as if the car was cut out of the wiring harness. There have been quite a few posts ( about the madelectrical bypass ) asking, "Can't I just cut these 2 wires and connect together in the engine bay ?"
Answer, "NO"
Best to refer to factory service manual wiring diagrams. Try figure out where the car gets its power. There has to be a weld splice or other point of branch distribution somewhere.
I've read that very early models had umpteen wires connected to the wiper switch as its connector was used as a distribution point. I'm not as familiar with the early builds.

 

[KitCarlson]

We are taking baby steps here over several days. Your post #22 suggests you have power to big stud of starter relay, good. Next there is a dark blue wire with tracer (A1B), it goes from that starter stud to bulhead terminal Z. Check if that is good....... My guess, it is not.