Estimated hp and tq. 360 la

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I can't believe nobody has said this, but a 727 in an early A takes some serious work. Beating pinch welds flat, etc.. A 904 would be a way better choice, and fitment is way better. Also, your header choices are very limited in an early A.
 
vntned said:
I can't believe nobody has said this, but a 727 in an early A takes some serious work. Beating pinch welds flat, etc.. A 904 would be a way better choice, and fitment is way better. Also, your header choices are very limited in an early A.
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Well, I have a 904 that would bolt up, but how would the 904 hold up to the occasional track day and just being thrashed on? It came out of a 68 charger or challenger. Can't remember. Also if i decided to go with the 727 is there really any downfall to it having a short tail shaft? I mean either way i will need a costom mount unless you know of where i can find one and either way i will ned a costom driveshaft. I already have the headers and they fit, I got block hugger headman headers. They did not say that they would fit but I figured It was my best bet and sure enough they do.
 
David66dart said:
I am building a mopar 360 to put in my 66 dart for some fun quarter mile days but also a fun street rod. It has stock compression, stock heads, stock crank and rods, .030 over pistons, dual plane Eddlebrock performer intake, 650 cfm Eddlebrock carb, stock eletronic ignition, new flat tapped cam 224 230 at 50, 110 separation. And shorty headders. What are you guys and gals thinking that this motor will make for hp and tq?
Also, I will be having a 727 trans from a dodge d200 truck and was wondering what converter I should get and maybe a shifter kit recommendation? It's my first build. Also, does anyone have an 8.25 or 8.75 a body rear end for sale? Sorry for lack of knowledge. It's my first build and I'm a highschooler.
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sounds like a fun ride when you get it done. after I got home from AIT for the Army reserves in 1990, I bought a 74 dart sport. for the engine I bought I new stock 89 360 short block. I didn't know any better at the time lol, but I installed the mopar 292/509 purple shaft cam, factory LD340 cast iron intake, Holley 750 DP carb,hooker super comp headers.
727 transmission I built my self, turbo action reverse manual valve body, 10 inch 3500 stal no name torque converter
8-3/4 rear-end, 4.10 gears with factory sure grip, street 275/60/15 tires.
my car wasn't all that fast, would run 13.20 at 105 in the 1/4 on street tires, but was a blast to drive on the street. at the time I drove the car all year, even drove it to work on day with 8 inches of snow on the ground.lol
on the rear-end if you cant find a 8-3/4 or don't want to spend the crazy money that they are going for now. look for a 8.8 out of a mid to late 90 ford explorer. They take a little work to fit into an Abody, but you should be able to get one complete from the pick and pull for $200. the axles are 31 spline, have disc brakes and you can find them with 3.73 and 4.10 gears+ posi tracs. I am putting a 8.8 in my 96 Dakota race truck
here is a Article on what to look for and what all it takes to install one.

Ford 8.8 Swap
 
mopar65 said:
sounds like a fun ride when you get it done. after I got home from AIT for the Army reserves in 1990, I bought a 74 dart sport. for the engine I bought I new stock 89 360 short block. I didn't know any better at the time lol, but I installed the mopar 292/509 purple shaft cam, factory LD340 cast iron intake, Holley 750 DP carb,hooker super comp headers.
727 transmission I built my self, turbo action reverse manual valve body, 10 inch 3500 stal no name torque converter
8-3/4 rear-end, 4.10 gears with factory sure grip, street 275/60/15 tires.
my car wasn't all that fast, would run 13.20 at 105 in the 1/4 on street tires, but was a blast to drive on the street. at the time I drove the car all year, even drove it to work on day with 8 inches of snow on the ground.lol
on the rear-end if you cant find a 8-3/4 or don't want to spend the crazy money that they are going for now. look for a 8.8 out of a mid to late 90 ford explorer. They take a little work to fit into an Abody, but you should be able to get one complete from the pick and pull for $200. the axles are 31 spline, have disc brakes and you can find them with 3.73 and 4.10 gears+ posi tracs. I am putting a 8.8 in my 96 Dakota race truck
here is a Article on what to look for and what all it takes to install one.
Sounds a lot like what i am doing except i am waiting until after high school to join the armed forces! Well sounds like you had fun with your build that is similar to mine so let's see how mine goes!


Ford 8.8 Swap
Click to expand...
 
David66dart said:
Well, I have a 904 that would bolt up, but how would the 904 hold up to the occasional track day and just being thrashed on? It came out of a 68 charger or challenger. Can't remember. Also if i decided to go with the 727 is there really any downfall to it having a short tail shaft? I mean either way i will need a costom mount unless you know of where i can find one and either way i will ned a costom driveshaft. I already have the headers and they fit, I got block hugger headman headers. They did not say that they would fit but I figured It was my best bet and sure enough they do.
Click to expand...
I think that 904 would be just fine.
 
Both of the passenger Mopar Torqueflites will fit on the factory tail mount. In a streeter with stock rear tubs you cannot hurt a well-built and maintained A904 to A999, with a non-supercharged SBM, unless you really really try.
 
The stubby truck trans has a bolt on yoke. You need the slip yoke type for your car. The truck had a two piece shaft with a carrier bearing on an additional crossmember and a slip yoke built into the rear shaft. You can change the output shaft and extension housing to the car type,but you have to tear the trans all the way apart. Just use the 904. It will hold up fine and free up some power.
 
mopar65 said:
sounds like a fun ride when you get it done. after I got home from AIT for the Army reserves in 1990, I bought a 74 dart sport. for the engine I bought I new stock 89 360 short block. I didn't know any better at the time lol, but I installed the mopar 292/509 purple shaft cam, factory LD340 cast iron intake, Holley 750 DP carb,hooker super comp headers.
727 transmission I built my self, turbo action reverse manual valve body, 10 inch 3500 stal no name torque converter
8-3/4 rear-end, 4.10 gears with factory sure grip, street 275/60/15 tires.
my car wasn't all that fast, would run 13.20 at 105 in the 1/4 on street tires, but was a blast to drive on the street. at the time I drove the car all year, even drove it to work on day with 8 inches of snow on the ground.lol
on the rear-end if you cant find a 8-3/4 or don't want to spend the crazy money that they are going for now. look for a 8.8 out of a mid to late 90 ford explorer. They take a little work to fit into an Abody, but you should be able to get one complete from the pick and pull for $200. the axles are 31 spline, have disc brakes and you can find them with 3.73 and 4.10 gears+ posi tracs. I am putting a 8.8 in my 96 Dakota race truck
here is a Article on what to look for and what all it takes to install one.

Ford 8.8 Swap
Click to expand...
Mopar 65 do you recall if you set the 292 mopar vam in dot to dot or advanced?
 
I saw a link for 360 dyno results on Facebook book. So I downloaded it. Here it is. Id say my build will fall into the 1st package. So im looking at around 300hp thats good enough for me. Better than the 95 the slant six had lol
Dyno proven 360 packages
 
David66dart said:
Well, I have a 904 that would bolt up, but how would the 904 hold up to the occasional track day and just being thrashed on?
Click to expand...
904's in stock form will hold a little, but won't take a ton of abuse. That being said, just a few minor upgrades (i'm not a transmission expert) and they hold up great. With some more upgrades and many bracket racers are running them every weekend in 10 sec cars
 
List of upgrades I been doing...

Front and Rear Kevlar bands...some like some dont like $50
24 spring kit for front drum... 100
5 disc in front clutch pac where stock was 4 disc.. ???
upgrade rear servo to billet unit 90
5.0 kickdown lever 30
reinforced band strut... 25
end of upgrades....lol
about half of them are a one time expense..

stock disc and steels...
replace at least these bushing...pump ...front drum and busing in tail shaft...
replace front and rear seals
replace all pistons lip seals..
replace all sealing rings...some steel some Teflon...
 
dartfreak75 said:
I saw a link for 360 dyno results on Facebook book. So I downloaded it. Here it is. Id say my build will fall into the 1st package. So im looking at around 300hp thats good enough for me. Better than the 95 the slant six had lol
Dyno proven 360 packages
Click to expand...
I had a package sorta like this, once, and it was awesome! Hands down my favorite ever
Package four:
360 rebuilt to 9.9:1 compression, Edelbrock heads, Edelbrock RPM Airgap intake, 750 Edelbrock carb, Hughes cam HE2430 with 224/230 degrees @ .050", .504"/.515" lift, 1 5/8" headers.
397 h.p. @ 5,500 rpm
436 lbs. of torque @ 3,800 rpm
 
Great build....glad you're not building a Camaro. Welcome aboard the Mopar Train.
 
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