finally it looks like V-8 time

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Wel guys I think efi is the only way to . I did my 5.2 converisonn backin 1993 and ln these yesrs I have had no problems and even went on the 1999 Hot ROD Power Tour Long Haular. When we left Callif. to FL I seen more carbs.breack down than EFI . We never had any problem that long *** haul. But everbody to there own thing/Still running strong today
 
Go with the 302 heads or better yet a set of Magnum heads. I think the Magnum heads have to be redrilled to use LA intakes though. Still super head design. The EFI engines greatest parts are the heads transmission and rear gearing. Thats was get the real fuel milage. Stick with the carb. Mopars biggest weakness is the electrical system. Don't add more problem to it.

The 999 is a updated 904. You can buy a weighted flexplate for the 360. You are better off with the 318 over the 360.

Get a 5 speed and cut up the floor to fit. It will be soooo worth it.
 
I have a nice set of 1968 318 9.2:1 pistons with valve reliefs cut in, I believe I also have a set of the 302 heads. I'm wondering what approximately this set up would give as far as compression ratio. probably a bit over 9.5.
oh, and I think I've found the distributor. I was going to use the factory electronic but my uncle pulled this baby out of his shop.:-D
img_1568.jpg
 
another advantage is in handling. having that big six leaning over to the passenger side affects the way these little cars handle.

Where do you sit when you drive, on the tranny tunnel? Otherwise, how much do you weigh, 50 lbs.?

The driver's weight more than offsets the slant's bias. In fact, if you swap in a V8, you'll have too much weight on the driver's side. I don't hear any V8 guys complaining about that...

That's about the strangest rationale for a V8 swap I've heard...
 
last I checked I don't sit over the front wheel, I'm more central to the balance of the car. the slant six sits almost right over the right front wheel. I've noticed some serious understeer when turning left while my car definitely is much more confident turning right. if you go back and look at the reviews from when the cars were new, they mention the issue. it becomes less noticeable when the cars get a bit bigger.
 
The V8 is offset as well in the engine bay.

If your 302s are not milled, you will be getting 9 to 9.2 with those pistons, just a guess.
 
oh, and I think I've found the distributor. I was going to use the factory electronic but my uncle pulled this baby out of his shop.:-D
img_1568.jpg

I would sell that to a hot rod guy building a hoodless ride with a SB mopar. Magnetos are cool though.
 
well, I went shopping this afternoon:-D
actually I went over to my Dads and dug around in his pile and came up with a set of closed chambered heads (the 302 heads are off for now), and an older Crane cam with 450 lift and 285 duration, at least that's what I think it is.
I'm thinking I'll go ahead and break all the rules for now and put the used pistons and the used cam and build this thing basically for free with the intention of finding a Magnum V-8 with a 5 speed and swapping out then. in the mean time a basic re ring of mixed used parts. probably run ok just may not have the total longevity it would if I did it right. it isn't going to be a race car, just my daily driver hopefully with a bit more pep than the tired slant.

so this is what I have at the moment
a decent standard bore 318 block with a .010/.010 crank
a set of 1968 9.2:1 pistons with full floating pins that are in really good used condition (9.2:1 with open chambered heads)
a set of closed chambered heads (should push the compression up over 9.5:1)
used but in good shape Crane camshaft approx .450 lift 285 duration (does anyone have the specs on older Crane cams?)
new roller timing chain
factory 273 4bbl. intake carb air cleaner setup.

and how much is this going to cost?
let's see, I bought 5 gallons of fresh cleaning solvent which came to about $25.00. I bought a trans filter and front pump seal, that was another $12 or so Dollars. I'll have to buy fresh oil and trans fluid. everything else is in stock. my uncle even has a valve grinder so that won't cost anything. so from a pile of parts to in the car running down the road under $100.00 to go from sick six to mild V-8! later I'll do it right, for now the 6 is so tired it uses about a quart of oil every 50 miles or so and the valves are so bad it has around 35psi in all cylinders.

P.S. I was just kidding about the Spalding dual point distributor I'll use the factory electronic setup. the Spalding isn't a magneto, just a dual point that fires each bank with it's own points and coil.
 
starting to look a bit better!
img_1571.jpg


here is the number on the end of the cam. Crane's numbering convention at the time apparently used the duration in the cam number and I measured the lift the old fashioned way. I have a call into what's left of Crane, they're supposed to call back. hopefully they can give more complete data on it. so far I have right around 440 lift and 284 duration. I figure this is right around where I want to be.
img_1577.jpg
 
If the HT-284-2 is 284/284 .450 lift, thats quite a bit of cam for a 318,
especially if your using 2.94/3.23 gears.

You might be better with a dual pattern cam. ;)

Don't forget whatever cam you use the stock 318 valve springs should be replaced, with the springs that match the cam.

Some people like to use a 340 replacement cam in a 318.

I am using a Mopar Perfomance .430/.450 260/268 duration.

Brand Mopar Performance
Manufacturer's Part Number P4452759
Part Type Camshaft and Lifter Kits
Product Line Mopar Performance Purple Camshaft Kits
Summit Racing Part Number DCC-4452759

Cam Style Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range 1,200-5,200
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 221
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 228
Duration at 050 inch Lift 221 int./228 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 260
Advertised Exhaust Duration 268
Advertised Duration 260 int./268 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.430 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.450 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.430 int./0.450 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees) 110
 
The Demon has a setup similar to what you're building up. Like you, I was looking for something inexpensive that would make a bit of power. The 318 with an aluminum intake weighs about 20 lbs more than a 225. The combination produces around 300 hp at the flywheel with headers.

It has a '68 318 with 302 heads and a Performer intake. The carb is a 625 cfm Carter AFB. This is the same carb used on the 273 HP. Found that the manual choke version does not fit the stock divorced choke without a bit of work. (I bent the rod around quite a bit to make it fit.) If I had to do it again, I'd go with an electric choke. I did a little cleanup, removing burrs and polishing on the head ports. The calculated static compression ratio is 9.3:1. Used the tuning specs for a '73 340. Runs fine on 89 octane.

The engine has a Crane cam. The intake has .441" lift, duration is 218º @.050 lift. The exhaust has 228º @.050 lift. Throttle response is good over 2000 rpm. A lot of that is due to the 2.76:1 rear gear. I am building up a 3.55:1 for a bit more immediate urge.
 
Ok, I just got off the phone with Crane Cams. here are the specs for the cam:
lift: 430 intake 448 exhaust
duration: @.050 214 intake 224 exhaust
lobe separation: 112º
 
Ok, stupid question, has anyone put a 318 in an early A body and used a modern pan? it looks like it will fit but there is a dent in the early pans for the steering arm. the engine was originally in a 1978 LeBaron.
 
found an early pan so scrap the last question.

On to heads!
I found a compression calculator online and have been playing with it.

if I go with the 302 heads, I get an approx. 9.6:1 compression ratio.
if I use the 273 heads which are closed chambered, I will get an approx. 9.5:1 compression ratio.
if I go with a set of earlier open chambered heads, I get an approx. 9.2:1 compression ratio.
if I go with the late open chambered heads, I get an approx. 8.9:1 compression ratio.

these calculations are made with the assumed head CC's of 57 for the 273 heads, 60 for the early 318 heads, 63 for the late 318 heads, and 56 for the 302's, and my -.050 deck height clearance.

I'm thinking the early 318's with 9.2 sounds most manageable. I'm going to clean up a set of '74 318 heads and see what they look like. any feedback would be welcomed.:-D
 
Did it add the thinkness of the head gasket? I still say go with the 302's
 
I guesstimated the gasket thickness at .049. this guess was based on the rated compression ratio of the stock setup. I plugged in all the stock parameters and adjusted the head gasket 'til I got the stock rating, then changed the combustion chamber cc's as given in the books. not really scientific but I was just going for a ball park idea what the differences might look like. my temptation is to put it together with a different set of heads and go through and really set up the '302 heads and switch them out later.

I found an old Offenhauser 360 dual port intake, has anyone used one of these? what do they perform like?
 
well the philosophy on this engine is decent mild performance and reliability without losing all mileage. I wasn't really wanting a big block Dart nor did I want a 340 or 360. originally it was going to end up with a stock 273 HP out of a 1965 Dart GT. after considering all the options I thought I'd go with this 318. remember this is my daily driver.
the truth about the 318 is that as soon as it came out, the 340 was available so Chrysler never really exploited it's potential. I've always thought it was sold short. in this configuration I'm guessing I should get around 280hp and not be unruly at all. I'm also hoping for approaching 20mpg. we'll see.
 
that water pump is for 1970 and newer. ;)

If you are going to use that setup you will need a custom radiator,
the 1964-66 V8 radiator will not work.
 
mine is a slant 6 radiator being a slant 6 car, so the outlet is on the correct side for this water pump which is why I chose it. I'm hoping it won't overheat. I'm not even sure there was much real difference anyway.
either way I have both types if there is an issue.:-D
 
mine is a slant 6 radiator being a slant 6 car, so the outlet is on the correct side for this water pump which is why I chose it. I'm hoping it won't overheat. I'm not even sure there was much real difference anyway.
either way I have both types if there is an issue.:-D

OK, cool, the /6 radiator outlet is on the other side, so your all set, for the newer type water pump.

Take more photos as you proceed with your project,
and I hope you have Zero problems. :)
 
the latest photo, just fitting the alternator stuff and pulleys etc.. I bought an AFB off ebay for around $40.00 after shipping. this is the only real expense so far. I set an old AVS on it for now for the photo. the air cleaner is a stock one off a 1969 440, I may switch to the factory 273 Charger air cleaner, I'm not sure.
img_1626.jpg
 
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