finally it looks like V-8 time

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I would just bolt in the 8 3/4,get some lbp Moser axels.You already have the rear and it,s a bolt in.I swapped mine to all LBP,front and back also 360/904.It,s a completely different car now.I have RPM airgap intake and still close my hood.

car pics 66 Dart 004.jpg


car pics 66 Dart 003.jpg
 
what did you do for the torque converter? I suppose they make them, I've never checked.
 
37fleetwood said:
what did you do for the torque converter? I suppose they make them, I've never checked.
Click to expand...
If you use the 904 pushbutton you will need to change the input shaft to go with a new convertor or send the original convertor out and have it rebuilt. Jayson
 
the 360 is externally balanced and they never put an A904 behind the 360, they always used the A727. to use a 360 with an A904 you would have to have a specially balanced torque converter.
 
I want to street drive my car so the stall converter is out but I'm guessing they make them in a more stock application.
problem I have is I have a decent 318 and a 318 re-ring kit and would have to buy anything needed to go with the 360. maybe I'll get it going with the 318 and consider whether it's worth it to go with the magnum setup.

Earl, what kind of mileage are you getting on the Magnum V-8/overdrive?
 
With the 3:91 I get aroung 21-22 at 70 mph and in the 3-9 which I thought would get better it gets between 20-21 I am not happy with the 3.9 I am thinking of pulling it out and going back to the slant six. My 65 Valiant gets 23 mpg and I am driving it now
 
the little V-6 is working harder than the V-8. if you go back to the slant 6 make sure you at least use the newer head with hardened seats. that's the main reason I'm changing, I have about 35psi compression in all cylinders! I figure it doesn't make sense to do the head and not refresh the engine and for the same price I can refresh a v-8. if you simply pulled the V-6 out and replaced it with a nice stock 318 you'd probably get around the same mileage and have the extra power. another advantage is in handling. having that big six leaning over to the passenger side affects the way these little cars handle.
 
37fleetwood said:
the 360 is externally balanced and they never put an A904 behind the 360, they always used the A727. to use a 360 with an A904 you would have to have a specially balanced torque converter.
Click to expand...


Hmmm..... I have a '78 Cordoba donor car and it has a 360 904 combo.

I've seen vans with 360 904 combos also.

At the old Chrysler Corp they did make use of just about everything in everything. They didn't change things for the sake of change, they just found new ways to use what they had.
 
MOPEkidD-3 said:
You could easily (and cheaply) build a 300+ HP 318 with mildly ported 302's, a good cam, Performer or similar dual-plane and 600 cfm carb. A complete EFI Magnum engine does sound attractive but IMO that "beer-barrel" intake is giving up a lot of higher-end power (kinda like the old longhorn cross-ram BB intakes). There is a dual- or single-plane intake by Mopar Performance that has injector bungs(?) cast in, so you could swap one of those intakes on a good junkyard Magnum engine and you'd have a pretty powerful engine.
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There is an air gap EFI manifold for the Magnum from http://www.hughesengines.com that keeps the bottom end torque and gives top end also.
 
The big problem with a V-8 swap is the exhaust.

Sanderson has a shorty header that center dumps, it would be great for the passenger side.

The drivers side is the problem with P/S.

TTI will work BUT that requires moving the oil filter on the passenger side,
the drivers side will work with P/S BUT it requires a mini starter and you can't run a column shift auto or a z bar clutch.

Installation is a bear requiring threading the steering shaft and torsion bar through the left side header.

So if WE let Sanderson know that there is a need for a drivers side header maybe they would build it.

OK guys Monday everyone call Sanderson and ask about a shorty header for the drivers side early A's. Toll Free: (800) 669-2430
 
thanks for the great info so far!!
Wow the intake posted is cool but kinda pricey.
I think I'll probably use the stock 273 exhaust for now but keep my eye out for a set of the Magnum type exhaust off a junkyard Dakota donor. I understand they are as simple as adding a few fender washers under the driver side motor mount for clearance. I'll probably make something a little nicer than washers but the concept is sound.
I'm curious about the 5 speed. I would love to hear from someone who has put one in. my Dad has a Jeep with the same basic 5 speed and it looks small enough to fit without cutting the floor board but I may be wrong. if one of these will fit easily it would be a really cheap junk yard parts swap.
is there another better fitting solution? I've seen an article on putting the 5 speed out of a V-6 Blazer in an early A-body. if that would work better and still use all junkyard parts that might be a solution.
I'm trying to avoid putting big dollars into this for now. so far the V-8 swap isn't costing me anything but a front pump seal for the trans and a few quarts of oil. I have a good 318 and the re-ring kit in stock.
 
here is one of my options. has anyone used one of these? how much of a performance killer is it?
img_1486.jpg
 
My opinion; I would not use an EGR smog intake manifold,
on an engine thats going into a pre smog car.

I am not sure, is that a Throttle body?
If it is, that would add a Lot of work; to add EFI to an old car, that sure isn't going to be a 10 min deal. :(

Best of luck to you with your project, which ever way you go,
take some pictures to share with us. :)
I wish I had taken more photos when I did my engine swap.
Below is one of the few pics I took.



37fleetwood said:
here is one of my options. has anyone used one of these? how much of a performance killer is it?
img_1486.jpg
Click to expand...


ce44.jpg
 
37fleetwood said:
the 360 is externally balanced and they never put an A904 behind the 360, they always used the A727. to use a 360 with an A904 you would have to have a specially balanced torque converter.
Click to expand...

not so, i bought a '77 360/904 combo off ebay for my dart, it had never been apart. it came from a 77 fury wagon, it actually was the desirable 904 with the extra clutches and lower gears, i think it was actually called an A999.

also you can get a specially balanced flexplate and use any 904 torque converter that you want with that.
-Tim
 
I'd also recommend against that manifold you pictured. Even though it is technically EFI it isn't that much better than a well-tuned carb AND the throttle body looks like it would flow noticeably less than a typical 4-bbl. carburetor.
 
I was thinking about chucking the manifold and adapting the efi to a 4bbl manifold. maybe it isn't worth it, I was just thinking it might have an advantage in mileage and reliability over a 4bbl.
 
37fleetwood said:
I was thinking about chucking the manifold and adapting the efi to a 4bbl manifold. maybe it isn't worth it, I was just thinking it might have an advantage in mileage and reliability over a 4bbl.
Click to expand...

Carb is easier, LOL;

do you have the computer and the EFI dist for the computer setup already, and the associated wiring harness?

you will need to run a special higher pressure electric fuel pump.
you will need a return line to the fuel tank, { you can cut the fuel filler tube and tap into that.}

Your manifold looks like it has the special EFI style water temp sensor. :)
what about the MAP sensor? did Mopar use an Air density sensor?, {was that in the air cleaner setup stock?}

Yes you Can go to EFI, even aftermarket, like from Summit,
but a carb is simpler, and cheaper.

I am using a 600cfm Edelebrock # 1406 on my 318 in my '64 Valiant.
I get about 20mpg on the road, if I stay under 75mph.
2.93 Sure Grip gear,
205/70/r14 tires.

Its wise of you to ask questions, Before you start buying a lot of your parts.

Take time, and be careful, and take photos. :)
 
I would chuck the TBI setup. they do not do any better as far as mpg and as far as reliability you have more things that can go wrong. the system relies on all the sensors and unless you buy all new stuff you still have a bunch of outdated, used equipment. If you want to go FI get a newer multi setup that would get better mpg and is up to date technology. for easy setup and to keep it simple go carb.
 
Ok, I have decided to go with a stock 273 4bbl intake and small AFB carter.
On to the next issue, low compression. In another post someone mentioned putting 318 Poly pistons in an LA 318 gives you around 9.5:1 compression. has anyone done this? I do happen to have a nice set of standard Poly Pistons here. (this is turning out to be a real junk yard build!)
next up the final decision on heads, I have the stock 78 heads which have the advantage of having hardened seats but I also have several options here as well.
 
dude, you scored on that intake, nice and flat, but it doesnt perform real well. Get yourself a Edel Performer they are almost as flat and are a modern dual plane, way more torque down low but youll need to grinid the holes a tad so the bolts will line up. Not real hard. An LD4B is similar to the Performer but has a little more port volume. Are your heads closed chambers? If you have 4 valve relief pistons, get yourself some 302 casting number heads from a later 318, much better breathing, closed chamber for a little more compression and a better combustion chamber shape for better performance. Remember to check for a dowel pin in the front part of the block if switching manifolds. I cracked my original intake becasue the new 318 block had a pin and the 273 intake didnt have a hole! Dump the FI, too much hassle unless you live in the cold north and like a car that starts easily in the morning, and that is not too hard wiht a good chokle on a carb. I looked into it and it just didnt add up. REturn line, external FI pump, ECU, sensors, weak intake designs, limited HP limits on that 2bbl version and injector prices. Those 2 injectors are about 180 to upgrade or replace. Nope, a stock sized Carter 500CFM or an 1850 Holley, even one of those weird Aluminum Holley spreadbores that are rated at ~500CFM would work well.
 
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