Finally the decision has been made.

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Then I'd recommend a vacuum secondary 750 & play with the jetting & power valve.
 
I agree! I like it a lot.
I have had alot of help here on how to select a cam and what the numbers mean. I have alot more of an understanding than I did six months ago when I began this journey! I want to thank all of you for your help! I found the section in my book for measuring the guide clearance I will get that measured! Hopefully it will clear without machining.
 
How about a street demon 750? I really like that carb.

Just my honest opinion here, some will disagree, but I think the 625 Street Demon would be a better fit. The engine you are going for is a mild one. 750 is on the ragged edge of too big. IMO 625 is perfect.
 
I do have a question that isn't covered in my book. When measuring retainer to guide clearance do you do it with the valve seal on? The way the book reads you do it with it off? That seems to me it would change the overall height
 
Just my honest opinion here, some will disagree, but I think the 625 Street Demon would be a better fit. The engine you are going for is a mild one. 750 is on the ragged edge of too big. IMO 625 is perfect.
The 625 demon is on sale right now at summit for 288 lol
 
The 625 demon is on sale right now at summit for 288 lol

That's a really good price. Carburetors are like camshafts in the respect that you will always be happier with one a little small than a little big. But I don't think the 625 is small here. I think it's perfect. Course, like I said, opinions vary. lol
 
run that 600 on there and I bet you will be surprised how well it works as long as it's tuned in decent

I missed it. Does he HAVE a 600 now? By all means run that beeotch.
 
Glad you have a plan. You gathered info, you have a plan, move forward :)
You can always do small changes down the road.
 
I missed it. Does he HAVE a 600 now? By all means run that beeotch.
Yea I have a 600 holley 1850 now. I am gonna run it. I would like to upgrade eventually. But that is not on the top of my priorities! Number one on the priority list is getting all the machine work planned out and done.
 
Yea I have a 600 holley 1850 now. I am gonna run it. I would like to upgrade eventually. But that is not on the top of my priorities! Number one on the priority list is getting all the machine work planned out and done.

Well hell yeah! Throw that thing on there. They are great carburetors. You might find it small, then again it might be perfect.
 
Yea I know it was ment for the 318 but that when south. It will work until I can afford something better! What carb would you recommend?
What converter would you recommend? I the car will be full weight probably 3400 with me in it. And 2.76 gears for now until the 71/4 gives up the ghost.

With the 2.76 I would normally say you have, HAVE, to to get a convertor if you are swapping cams.
But I know that 268/276 cam in a high-compression 360; it pulls pretty hard from nearly right off idle. And it will pull the stock stall up an easy 100 rpm.
However, the 2.76s are gonna keep the engine rpm down a long ways, so if it doesn't break the tires loose right on the start-line, then the engine is gonna be stuck having to work really hard all the way to 30mph/2650rpm and beyond.
Now, if the engine is gonna be a low-compression deal, this is gonna be further compounded by the soft take-off.
With the 2.76s in the back,and in 2.45 first gear,and the stock 1850TC,I don't think it will break traction, so any small carb will do, including a big 2bbl, up to about 3500rpm/40mph.

So, on your budget,my thought is this; It's gonna be a lo-C deal, and it's gonna be stuck with the 2.76s. So then I would rather have the big-TC NOW and a 2bbl, than the stock teener TC and a 4bbl; because now with the new TC it will break traction from a standstill. Now you can put some decent rubber back there, and it will be vastly more fun on the street; at least to 30mph, and probably to 40.
BTW, 2.76s are good to 65ish mph with that cam. The power will begin to build at 40 be going strong at 45, peak at 55ish, and shift at 60 to 65. The 2bbl will slow it down up there some, so you might want to shortshift it.
So if you don't already have a performance intake, but do have the 1850, then bolt on anything.

Here's the deal; say 60mph was the upper cut-off, and the 2bbl quits pulling hard at 40. That means 40/60 =67% of the powerband is working for you. If you only spend 10% of the time over 40mph at WOT, then 90% of the time the 2bbl is adequate.
But 100% of the time, the bigger TC is making it fun from standstill to 30/35mph. Without the bigger TC 100% of the time below 20mph is gonna be a PITA to get thru, and 20 to 30mph is gonna be sluggish as well.
Those are my thoughts.____________________
Now, here is my experience;
I once (1975) ran a 340 like this in a 65 Valiant wagon, yes with a 2bbl and even with a teener 2bbl cam.That was a lotta,lotta fun. The 904 puked in the second summer. The by now 11 year old 7.25, which I peg-legged the crap out of, kept on going.
I gave that car to my little brother who took the 340 out for me and installed a 225 that I gave him, and then he ran it for a few more years.
 
Yea I know it was ment for the 318 but that when south. It will work until I can afford something better! What carb would you recommend?

What converter would you recommend? I the car will be full weight probably 3400 with me in it. And 2.76 gears for now until the 71/4 gives up the ghost.

Wait until you get a new rear end lol. I wouldn’t even buy a converter if I had 2.76 gears if I knew I would be replacing them.
 
Obviously his combination is all wrong. Not worth doing unless it has a 4” arm, aluminum heads, .650lift cam 1,000cfm carb, 4500stall. Just kidding sounds like you have a solid plan. Now the hardest part is the execution. I’m going to guess your plan is a solid 350hp 400ftlb +\-goal. I’ll be whatching cause I’m planing of redoing my 360 soon with the H116CP’s with a set of home ported J’s.

Your pistons mentioned at the end of your post. I have seen different letter number designators on the speed pro pistons in older posts - what else is there besides H116P ?
@67/6barracuda thank you!
 
Your pistons mentioned at the end of your post. I have seen different letter number designators on the speed pro pistons in older posts - what else is there besides H116P ?
@67/6barracuda thank you!
They determine how far down the hole they are. Be sure to do you research. I believe there’s three different h116 piston to pin heights to set your piston depths. The h116cp have a compression height of 1.660.
 
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run that 600 on there and I bet you will be surprised how well it works as long as it's tuned in decent

I had a similar engine and I ran a Edelbrock 650 avs and loved it. Guys on this forum tend to swear by a 750 dp on these small blocks but at the time mine hated the 750 no matter what I did to it.
 
They determine how far down the whole they are. Be sure to do you research. I believe there’s three different h116 piston to pin heights to set your piston depths. The h116cp have a compression height of 1.660.
Correct the 116cps will be approx. 027 in the hole. With a 74 cc chamber cr is around 9:1.
 
Wait until you get a new rear end lol. I wouldn’t even buy a converter if I had 2.76 gears if I knew I would be replacing them.
The rear end upgrade rearend will happen eventually I have the rear end I just have the money to put in it yet. So its going to the bottom of the list. I'm gonna run the stock tc as well.
 
With the 2.76 I would normally say you have, HAVE, to to get a convertor if you are swapping cams.
But I know that 268/276 cam in a high-compression 360; it pulls pretty hard from nearly right off idle. And it will pull the stock stall up an easy 100 rpm.
However, the 2.76s are gonna keep the engine rpm down a long ways, so if it doesn't break the tires loose right on the start-line, then the engine is gonna be stuck having to work really hard all the way to 30mph/2650rpm and beyond.
Now, if the engine is gonna be a low-compression deal, this is gonna be further compounded by the soft take-off.
With the 2.76s in the back,and in 2.45 first gear,and the stock 1850TC,I don't think it will break traction, so any small carb will do, including a big 2bbl, up to about 3500rpm/40mph.

So, on your budget,my thought is this; It's gonna be a lo-C deal, and it's gonna be stuck with the 2.76s. So then I would rather have the big-TC NOW and a 2bbl, than the stock teener TC and a 4bbl; because now with the new TC it will break traction from a standstill. Now you can put some decent rubber back there, and it will be vastly more fun on the street; at least to 30mph, and probably to 40.
BTW, 2.76s are good to 65ish mph with that cam. The power will begin to build at 40 be going strong at 45, peak at 55ish, and shift at 60 to 65. The 2bbl will slow it down up there some, so you might want to shortshift it.
So if you don't already have a performance intake, but do have the 1850, then bolt on anything.

Here's the deal; say 60mph was the upper cut-off, and the 2bbl quits pulling hard at 40. That means 40/60 =67% of the powerband is working for you. If you only spend 10% of the time over 40mph at WOT, then 90% of the time the 2bbl is adequate.
But 100% of the time, the bigger TC is making it fun from standstill to 30/35mph. Without the bigger TC 100% of the time below 20mph is gonna be a PITA to get thru, and 20 to 30mph is gonna be sluggish as well.
Those are my thoughts.____________________
Now, here is my experience;
I once (1975) ran a 340 like this in a 65 Valiant wagon, yes with a 2bbl and even with a teener 2bbl cam.That was a lotta,lotta fun. The 904 puked in the second summer. The by now 11 year old 7.25, which I peg-legged the crap out of, kept on going.
I gave that car to my little brother who took the 340 out for me and installed a 225 that I gave him, and then he ran it for a few more years.
Ok so this is not going to be a low compression deal I haven't cced my heads yet but I'm assuming they are around 75 give or take the h116cp pistons have a ch of 1.660 which will put me .027 under the deck I subtracted 4ccs for the valve cut outs I'm not sure if that's right but I'm sure it's close using a .040 head gasket that puts me at 9.1 scr with my cam selection I believe the dcr was 7.5. And the stock TC is the original TC to the 360 999 torqueflite.
 
Ok so this is not going to be a low compression deal I haven't cced my heads yet but I'm assuming they are around 75 give or take the h116cp pistons have a ch of 1.660 which will put me .027 under the deck I subtracted 4ccs for the valve cut outs I'm not sure if that's right but I'm sure it's close using a .040 head gasket that puts me at 9.1 scr with my cam selection I believe the dcr was 7.5. And the stock TC is the original TC to the 360 999 torqueflite.

Don`t get me wrong, my stuff aint performing like it should , and I`m not a small block expert . If it were me, I wouldn`t use the stock intake , intakes aren't real expensive and make a big diff.. Since ur buying new valves, why not go a little bigger on the intake? About the same price, just a little more to cut the new seats for them. I ran an 800 double pumper on a 383 sbc and it worked great, later put it on a hot 406 sbc, worked great for it too. Agree w/ the guys above in what u basically have planned tho----------
 
Ok so this is not going to be a low compression deal I haven't cced my heads yet but I'm assuming they are around 75 give or take the h116cp pistons have a ch of 1.660 which will put me .027 under the deck I subtracted 4ccs for the valve cut outs I'm not sure if that's right but I'm sure it's close using a .040 head gasket that puts me at 9.1 scr with my cam selection I believe the dcr was 7.5. And the stock TC is the original TC to the 360 999 torqueflite.
I get the same basic numbers with a .039" thick 1008 head gasket.
 
I do have a question that isn't covered in my book. When measuring retainer to guide clearance do you do it with the valve seal on? The way the book reads you do it with it off? That seems to me it would change the overall height
yes take the seal into account. Either install one and check retainer clearance or figure out how much clearance the seal takes up. Installing one is easiest.
 
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