I’ve had that happen too. Luckily I was under an alignment rack.
First drive after brake upgrade, then - BANG!
- Thread starter SF_Ripper
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dano
Evil Handy Man
With those control arms, check to make sure they are not hitting the body at the pivot point. At full drop they hit part of a gusset preventing movement. Just something else to look for.
On the rest, given what you have found, I would disassemble the front end, inspect and reassemble properly replacing anything suspect.
69FBCuda
Stand back 10' for your viewing pleasure & Safety
There's your "Bang" the motor's not bolted down, I wouldn't be surprised if the hood and air cleaner weren't dented,
The bottom line is . You have a broken torsion bar if the car dropped and you have no weld breaks or rust issues . But you also have many more mechanical issues. Good luck
SF_Ripper
Well-Known Member
I'm beginning to wonder if the guy that sold me the car didn't sabotage it first. Drive shaft u-joints were missing bolts, and others were loose AF!
Inertia
Well-Known Member
For Pete's sake, did you have it inspected, by any knowledgeable person, you obviously have no idea, yet YOU are NOW finding this ****.I'm beginning to wonder if the guy that sold me the car didn't sabotage it first. Drive shaft u-joints were missing bolts, and others were loose AF!
Be responsible for your own actions or in-actions, admit you failed Due Diligence, and stop pointing fingers at others !
EDITED for A.J.
Can't believe I just did a "Del" . .lol
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mopar head
Well-Known Member
All the crud has not been removed, wipe all that grease off so we can see what`s under it.
If that is the T bar sticking out, it`s broke. It should not be sticking out, a big clip keeps it in.
loganscuda
This/These
Give the OP a break. He is obviously discouraged and the more he probes the more he finds and is now frustrated. I’ve been in that situation and it can be a bit overwhelming. To the OP, just step back and take a deep breath. After reading the advice given try to respond to the post as quickly as you can with as much info as you can. These guys are truly trying to help and are very knowledgeable and they get frustrated too because they want to help but they are not there
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plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
Did the torsion bar release from it's hex socket? Like back out because the clip was missing?
Check where the torsion bar enters the trans cross member. That would explain the bang and the drop..
Check where the torsion bar enters the trans cross member. That would explain the bang and the drop..
Feel your pain brother. Stay at it.... Tech Service Manual is your friend.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
IMO,
Looks to me that's in front of the trans crossmember and the boot is pulled away. Also, the trans crossmember bolt appears loose.
If the bar is broken, I would think he could shake it around.
If the bar height adjuster bolt stripped, the bolt head will likely be much lower than the opposite side. OP, don't adjust these with the car weight on them.
My '66 Charged bar snapped way back, sounded like a M-80 under the car. Front right dropped to the bump stop in half a heartbeat. Right turns on the way home chewed on the tire a bit.
mopar head
Well-Known Member
when you look at the adjustment bolts in the lower control arm (LCA), also look at the arm that is part of the LCA that the adjustment bolt sits up into. If that piece broke then there's nothing to hold the torsion bar in tension and the adjuster would just be loose...
I'm beginning to wonder if the guy that sold me the car didn't sabotage it first. Drive shaft u-joints were missing bolts, and others were loose AF!
Up- side... you now know what you're facing... slow and easy. Assume nothing. You'll get it
SF_Ripper
Well-Known Member
Best thing I've read today. Thank you.
By the way... The torsion bar is fine, boxes are fine. Nothing is broken (like I mentioned in the original post (also why I didn't post any photos)). I assume the motor jumped out of the motor mount, then slammed back in - BANG.
Checked the height on the LCA-s they were off - car was leaning but, not now. Runs a LOT better now that the engine is bolted down properly - as is, I hope - everything else.
I had read in here that it's possible that a torsion bar can "turn" inside the box if it's rusty - that's why I had asked if I had to remove the torsion bar to put it back in place.
I've been turning wrenches since I was 15 y/o but as I also stated - I'm new to torsion bars.
Thanks to all who offered reasonable advice.
Great news!
I'm a newbie with all this and the assistance in here can be overwhelming at times. I got ahold of as many manuals as I could to get myself smart. Technical Service Manusl and a period edition of the Motors manual as a start if you don't have them already.
Rebuilt the front end of my 64 ... screwed it up the first go- round but with help figured it out.
Look forward to hearing about your success and getting her on the road
if the torsion bar actually turned in the trans crossmember socket, then this will probably happen again and should be repaired before it does, If you unload the torsion bar with the adjuster at the LCA, you can twist the bar back and forth and see if there is serious play inside the socket. You can also slide the bar out the back and see if the hex on the bar is somehow rounded off. Do Not grab the torsion bar with anything that will nick or score the bar as it can lead to the bar exploding under pressure - they make a torsion bar removal tool. If the bar turned, then the adjuster should be unloaded, and I don't see how it could somehow "fix itself". I think that my first step would be to tighten all the front end components to factory torque specs. BE SURE TO TIGHTEN THE LCA PIVOT NUT WITH FULL WEIGHT OF THE CAR ON THE SUSPENSION, otherwise the rubber bushing will end up twisted (wound up) and will fail prematurely. Good luck solving this and please keep us up to date on how it goes and what you find. When problems like this get solved it provides good real world information to all the rest of us!
SF_Ripper
Well-Known Member
Agreed. As with any internet forum - I've learned to take the good with the bad, and just ignore the negative. You Tube has been a GREAT resource for me as well. I also knew I'd be doing lots of work on this car when I first saw it, and since they're becoming more and more rare to find for the price I got it for - I jumped in with both feet. I'm not over my head (yet) but, it does get frustrating at times. So far, I've done the interior, new axles, disk brakes and most of the front/steering parts either upgraded, or replaced with factory equipment.Great news!
I'm a newbie with all this and the assistance in here can be overwhelming at times. I got ahold of as many manuals as I could to get myself smart. Technical Service Manusl and a period edition of the Motors manual as a start if you don't have them already.
Rebuilt the front end of my 64 ... screwed it up the first go- round but with help figured it out.
Look forward to hearing about your success and getting her on the road
SF_Ripper
Well-Known Member
I doubt this happened, because the sockets are not rusted at all - also, the torsion bars look to be fairly recently installed. Thanks for the heads up about the bushings - I've read this applies to the UCA, as well. As a side note - I drove it to the gas station today, and it handles much better now that the LCAs are riding at the same height. Now, if I could only find the proper power steering brackets...
1).The bar cannot turn in the socket, unless the weld broke.
2).Once you have determined what has caused this issue, someone can provide a useful answer.
Beyond that, with all of the loose/missing hardware seen and mentioned, I would not drive it again until you have been able to go over the entire car, and make sure ALL of the nuts and bolts are properly tightened. Just my .02
SF_Ripper
Well-Known Member
I've read in here that this CAN happen. Luckily, it didn't.
My "drives" have been VERY limited - momma didn't raise a dummy.
Thanks - I agree. I'm going over it as I can.
My "drives" have been VERY limited - momma didn't raise a dummy.
Thanks - I agree. I'm going over it as I can.
I suppose anything is possible, but I've never seen or heard of it in 45 years of pulling wrenches. Good luck with it, keep us posted.
Commando66
She's a beaut Clark!
I think str12-340 has sound advice. The lower control arm pivot probably got tightened WITHOUT the weight on the car. Without weight on the car when tightening, when you go for a test drive the front suspension will “collapse” just like you described.
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