FiTech EFI system

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Going to pull the trigger on one of these units pretty soon, just waiting on some info back from FiTech, however they are a bit slow on email response...

Anyone that already has one of their units, able to give the packaging weight and dimensions of the throttle body and command centre?

Regarding the command centre, is it upgradable from the 800hp its advertised at?
Was planning to run e85 which would put it closer to 600hp with the extra fuel required, leaving little wiggle for future upgrades. Looks like a neat package and would be great to use that too, 100% if it could be future proofed a little.

Curiously, regarding e85, their FAQ states that their systems are e85 compatible (but reduce power claims by 25-30%), however on their warranty page, they state "Our Go EFI systems are intended for use with unleaded pump gas up to 15% ethanol content".
 
well, finished the vent line earlier this evening.. and went for a short ride..

Stable idle, smooth power.. so far quite impressed. Going to drive it a lot over the next week and see how it performs. After a week or so, I will convert to allow it to control the timing.

Air fuel mixtures where they should be ALL THE TIME.

Nice
 
ken5124 said:
well, finished the vent line earlier this evening.. and went for a short ride..

Stable idle, smooth power.. so far quite impressed. Going to drive it a lot over the next week and see how it performs. After a week or so, I will convert to allow it to control the timing.

Air fuel mixtures where they should be ALL THE TIME.

Nice
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I have not installed nothing yet,I do have a return line on my fuel sender...
Been too busy at work including weekends.
Did you use a vented cap and where did you get it.
 
I kept my regular gas cap.. my tank has a vent to the atmosphere, a solid line that exits beside the fuel tank filler , thu the rubber seal.

I installed as a returnless system, they suggested a tee into that hard line by the filler neck, so that's what i did. Seems to work fine.

Went on a short run on the highway at lunch.. nice and smooth .. very impressed.

My Lokar throttle attachment piece wants to slide around on me, but I will fix that later.
 
TXDart said:
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Did you use a vented cap and where did you get it.
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Sure would like to discourage this. Vented caps on these cars are a REAL quick way to fuel running all over your fender.

Up to the emissions crap (carbon canisters, evaporative controls) All these cars were vented by means of a simple tube welded into the filler tube in the trunk The cap is sealed, no vent:

2cmugso.jpg


The bottom of the tube simply ends, open ended, in the interior of the rear frame rail.

You can easily duplicate that on the later cars.
 
I ordered the go EFI 8. Supports up to 1200 hp. Leaves lots of room for upgrades later on. Ships today. I'm going with the tanksinc.com in tank pump.
 
Has anyone with this system been to the dragstrip with it yet? I'm very curious on if there is any improvements in performance when it comes to quarter-mile I expect it to be very good on the street. As we do both with our 408 Volare it would be nice to have a little bit better Idol and start up and just all-around better performance on the street over the carburetor. As long as it doesn't hurt the performance at the track as far as if it runs the same as it did with my carburetor in et's I think we Will be very interested in doing this as well as everyone else
 
And if everything is sealed you are still running the fuel through the air and down the fill tube which will cause more evaporation.

67Dart273 said:
Sure would like to discourage this. Vented caps on these cars are a REAL quick way to fuel running all over your fender.

Up to the emissions crap (carbon canisters, evaporative controls) All these cars were vented by means of a simple tube welded into the filler tube in the trunk The cap is sealed, no vent:

2cmugso.jpg


The bottom of the tube simply ends, open ended, in the interior of the rear frame rail.

You can easily duplicate that on the later cars.
Click to expand...
 
junior said:
Has anyone with this system been to the dragstrip with it yet? I'm very curious on if there is any improvements in performance when it comes to quarter-mile I expect it to be very good on the street. As we do both with our 408 Volare it would be nice to have a little bit better Idol and start up and just all-around better performance on the street over the carburetor. As long as it doesn't hurt the performance at the track as far as if it runs the same as it did with my carburetor in et's I think we Will be very interested in doing this as well as everyone else
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I am waiting for one of the 600 hp version for my 73 Duster...If it comes in the next week or so I plan on taking the car to the strip....we only have 2 more races left....sept 16 last one.....once the weather get nice in Vegas they quit....lol
 
ken5124 said:
Hi, To answer your question, I will be running the fuel vent line under the car back to the trunk.. I am teeing into the fuel vent line (on the low side right beside the filler tube. I talked to Fitech about it and they felt it should work.

On another note... I got it started tonight, but have to let you know about a little problem i had ( now resolved) When I activated the system it poured about 2 inches of fuel in each of the four throttle bores... Not Good, obviously.. I turned off the power and soaked up the fuel with some rags.

Got on the phone with Ken, at Fitech ( i think the owner) and he quickly asked if I was using a msd digital 6. IMPORTANT NOTE ( he will be adding to his instructions) If your MSD displays the rev limit when you turn the key on, the EFI thinks you are at redline rpm, thus the gobs of fuel. Turned that off, cleared the fuel out of the motor, without starting, and the motor fired right up. I had to unhook the EFI tach feed line to turnoff the redline display option FYI

It has NEVER idled at 14.2 at idle before.. Quite impressed.

VENT LINE i didn't have it on as I warmed the engine... and after about 10 minutes, there was some fuel spitting out of that line.

No more running until I run the vent hose line, which I should be able to get done Sunday.

BTW the handheld controller is extremely easy to use, and I was able to richen the idle mixture and change the idle speed quite easily from inside the car.

Gonna like this a lot. Will post some more pictures and info as I get it on the road next week!!
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Thanks Ken on the feed back ,much appreciated ! keep us informed
 
70aarcuda said:
I am waiting for one of the 600 hp version for my 73 Duster...If it comes in the next week or so I plan on taking the car to the strip....we only have 2 more races left....sept 16 last one.....once the weather get nice in Vegas they quit....lol
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I thought you guys would race all year round hell even our track is open till mid Oct lol .
 
Used the car to go to work again this morning.. cold start, was able to put it right into gear with no issue.. Used to have to nurse it a bit with the carb. I really like that..!

When i shut it off after a run in hotter conditions, it was dripping some fuel out the vent line ( vent is the same style as shown in the images in this post.) I think if i change the fitting point so the vent line has the straight shot into the filler neck instead of hitting the 90 angle in the t, it should keep the excess running into the tank, instead of making it's way up and out the vent line.,

I think because of my tight engine compartment, I will also insulate the fuel center to help keep the fuel cool. ( no issue with that yet, but I think it makes sense)

I really want to use it to control timing.. so that's next on the list
 
Anyone tried using the timing control on this setup? I'm pretty interested in it. And I like the idea that I can change the timing with a push of the button and really tune it easy. How easy was it? What did you have to do to your distributor?
 
Lustle said:
Anyone tried using the timing control on this setup? I'm pretty interested in it. And I like the idea that I can change the timing with a push of the button and really tune it easy. How easy was it? What did you have to do to your distributor?
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Looking at the install directions you lock out the distributor and wire the ignition it to their ECU.
 
dano said:
Looking at the install directions you lock out the distributor and wire the ignition it to their ECU.
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Well and I think I saw something about changing the cap/rotor. I'll probably run it with manual timing first, changing over to ECU timing later. I like the idea though. It's great to be able to just change things on the fly. That and cold starts are a big reason I wanna go efi. In wonderful canada here it can be 10C in the morning and 30C by afternoon. Really throws the car off haha.
 
I will be changing the distributor to allow it to control my timing this weekend. I have the Mallory style Mopar distributor, so it is easy to lock out mechanical. I will change the pickup to a lean burn style Standard LX109 to eliminate the vacuum cannister and not have to weld up or bolt together the plate to the base.

I have the rick ehrenberg modified reluctor, so I will phase the rotor so the tip is right at the firing point at about 25 degrees, setting my initial at about 16 ( where it is now).

That should have the tip of the rotor close to the firing position for most timing variances ( i think)?

Once that is done, you set the fitech system to tell it what your base timing is , verify the system timing matches your timing light result, and beside some timing tweaking on the handheld, you are done from what I can figure.
 
ken5124 said:
I have the rick ehrenberg modified reluctor, so I will phase the rotor so the tip is right at the firing point at about 25 degrees, setting my initial at about 16 ( where it is now).
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Elaborate on what this is, please
 
Got tracking number today for fuel command center and throttle body....
 
Got the EFI unit mounted and most of the wiring done. Pretty simple conversion.

The Command Center fuel pump missed the truck and wont be here until Tuesday.

Only issue....coolant sensor needs 3/8 npt threads, my eddy air gap has two ports...auto meter sending unit is in the 3/8 npt hole....the other hole is 1/4 npt......found a brass fitting to convert 1/4 to 3/8 npt but had to order on line.......Or Drill and Tap it for 3/8 npt......Tomorrow...
 
I had the same issue with my coolant sensor, used a T in the heater hose line fitting and then installed the sensor into that t , just above the intake manifold.

Did some more cruising with it, ( fully controlling timing) on the weekend.. Very smooth,strong throughout. Cruised up to 30 KM over the speed limit and has never run that smooth and consistant. And every time i start it it fires right up and does not waver. Very impressed. You can watch the timing change as you drive on the handheld. Changes are very easy if you want to.

1 small glitch: at 2000 rpm, when i give it moderate pedal, there is a bit of a stumble. Does not occur if i push the pedal slower. Will call them today . I suspect an accel function adjustment will fix that problem.

Car never smells bad anymore.. I really like it.
 
67Dart273 said:
Was it off in the first place? After this "issue" came up I actually checked the 5 or so I've got lying around, and not one of 'em was what I'd call "off." This is easy to see on a car that you've run for awhile......it will "track" the interior of the cap
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It appeared that i was off a few degrees..Carbon tracking on one edge of the rotor tip. I installed the modified reluctor 5 degrees more to the advance.. Should keep the rotor and the cap aligned thru most of the timing changes.

Will be putting my cap with a hole in it on again and verifying phasing.
 
ken5124 said:
Used the car to go to work again this morning.. cold start, was able to put it right into gear with no issue.. Used to have to nurse it a bit with the carb. I really like that..!
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Ken, thanks for the detailed write up and pics. I've got a FAST EZ EFI and Aeromotive Phantom Stealth fuel pump still in the box that I'll be returning.
I have a question about the wiring: all the EFI mfgs require hot electrical source in both On/Run and Crank positions. When I talked to the FAST tech last month he said just that split second in between is enough to disrupt the ECU. Yesterday when I asked the FiTech tech the same question he said it wasn't going to be an issue. Did you modify your wiring at the ignition switch? If not, do you notice anything happening to the system during starting?
 
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