Flat tappet to solid roller...

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No worries guys, today I will know when my new pushrods get here.
Till then I have no time for the car anyway. It will be good, I dont want to take stupid risk.
Starting in and idling till temperature is one thing, beating on it is another.

The welded pushrods are already out of the motor and not coming back.
 
IQ52 said:
I get it. You are not into deferred gratification. Do you eat the jelly in the doughnut first? Best of luck.
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Its not that bad and also its very easy to say when you don't experience my situation with parts availability. I did not drive the car, just started the motor and let it warm up.
Splicing on just pushed in pushrods was my biggest worry, welding was supposed to minimize the risk of that.
Correct pushrods are ordered and I expect to get them in 2 weeks max. I admit I was tempted and wanted to drive like this but could not, felt wrong.
Also I will do durability test of these welded pushrods to see how big of a risk that really was.
 
Miszny said:
LOL

I bet you have 2 pushrods that can save my ***! :)
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Which ones
pushrods.jpg
do you want?
 
Miszny said:
Its not that bad and also its very easy to say when you don't experience my situation with parts availability. I did not drive the car, just started the motor and let it warm up.
Splicing on just pushed in pushrods was my biggest worry, welding was supposed to minimize the risk of that.
Correct pushrods are ordered and I expect to get them in 2 weeks max. I admit I was tempted and wanted to drive like this but could not, felt wrong.
Also I will do durability test of these welded pushrods to see how big of a risk that really was.
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You are right. I don't live in Poland and I don't understand how that effects life there.

I live in a town of less than 1,000 people in the middle of no place. The closest MacDonalds is 150 miles away. Still anything I want I can order from across the United States at 4:00 PM and have it by the next morning at 9:00 AM. I use that service often, and yes, I do eat the jelly first. Here in the States I often don't remember just how great we have it and I probably couldn't survive any place else.

I know that sometimes I respond like I work for Indy Cylinder heads.
 
IQ52 said:
Which onesView attachment 1715054814 do you want?
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Talking about deferred gratification... Bought all the parts in October 2016 and installed them only last week :) This is why I went with desperate measures. I could not let 2 pushrods stop me could I? ;-) Every single missing part for me means weeks of waiting to go forward, this is very frustrating.

What I need is 9" or longer ball/cup so I can shorten to the size I need.
Mine are chrome moly 2 piece cut to size, got them from Mancini Racing I think.

In your photo only one in the middle of the photo seems like what I need.
 
Like this? Oh heck, I know they are right. I got them from Mancini 4 or 5 years ago. Just PM me the best way to send them to you.
pushrods 001.jpg
 
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Miszny said:
Talking about deferred gratification... Bought all the parts in October 2016 and installed them only last week :) This is why I went with desperate measures. I could not let 2 pushrods stop me could I? ;-) Every single missing part for me means weeks of waiting to go forward, this is very frustrating.

What I need is 9" or longer ball/cup so I can shorten to the size I need.
Mine are chrome moly 2 piece cut to size, got them from Mancini Racing I think.

In your photo only one in the middle of the photo seems like what I need.
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too bad u didn`t ask on this forum. I have a new unused set of 9.400 compcams 3/8" - 5/16 ball and cup pushrods, in the box .
 
famous bob said:
too bad u didn`t ask on this forum. I have a new unused set of 9.400 compcams 3/8" - 5/16 ball and cup pushrods, in the box .
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I had full set waiting, but helped someone that was supposed to get them back to me long ago. Never happened and I was left with set of 14...
 
IQ52 said:
Yep, and I know of a guy who ground the base circle down on his camshaft with a bench grinder and a belt sander so he could get more lift. It ran for a while.
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Say what? Was it a Briggs & Stratton?

I know poor folks have poor ways but that's just nuts.
 
You people are AMAZING!
Jim sent me the pushrods for free! I only had to cover shipping cost!

Can't wait to get the package, will post more when done.

I will be making a new post with new build that I am about to start :)
It will be 340 from 72 Demon.
 
Oh sure, that was our secret. LOL Now everybody is going to hitting me up for free pushrods!
 
IQ52 said:
Oh sure, that was our secret. LOL Now everybody is going to hitting me up for free pushrods!
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I don't need pushrods. I need free dyno time, free intake manifolds, free cylinder heads etc. So what ever spares you have , PM me for my address. Hell I'll even pay the shipping.lollol.
 
There is one more thing I need to ask about and it's running temperature.
Before cam swap I had serious heat issue. My engine would eventually overheat when left parked and idling. I could not drive much in traffic etc.

After cam swap I left the car idling and in never exceeded 170 degrees, I did not change anything in the cooling system.

Any guesses what could have been wrong before? What could have cause excess heat?

Also I did not touch the carb yet and set timing to 18 initial as it was before the swap.

Also before the swap I could not keep the car running when in garage cause it smelled very rich, now it seems to be much better, I could let to run in the garage with open doors...
 
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I'm getting pushrods tomorrow! Can't wait to drive the car after all these changes!
Will report how it goes soon.

What is the time/mileage period of gentle and slow driving before I can put my foot into it?
 
Miszny said:
I'm getting pushrods tomorrow! Can't wait to drive the car after all these changes!
Will report how it goes soon.

What is the time/mileage period of gentle and slow driving before I can put my foot into it?
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One warm up and mash on it as long as you broke the cam in...if it's a HFT or SFT cam.
 
yellow rose said:
One warm up and mash on it as long as you broke the cam in...if it's a HFT or SFT cam.
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It's a solid roller cam, I will do 100 street miles tomorrow of gentle driving to let everything settle in.

Brake in on the flat tappet is start up and float rpm between 2000 and 2500 for about 10 minutes right? :)
This is how I did it before and it worked well.
 
Your short block is already run in and the roller doesn't need any break in. The only reason I would be gentle now is so that I didn't park it in a ditch. Aim it where you want to go and pull the trigger.
 
Finally! :)
I did just over 100 miles today, took a LOOOOONG way to work and back in average traffic and some back roads and I am VERY happy with the result of this swap.
First off the car had higher oil pressure for first few miles when hot. It came back to 25psi (when in gear and standing still at 900 rpm) I had before after some driving. It idles really well at 900rpm and starts better when cold. I don't need to keep my foot in it when starting cold, only think I need to do is to press the gas pedal once before I turn the key and it runs at 700 rpm cold without any issues.
Second thing is low end torque and gas pedal response, the difference is more than I expected. On my way back home I accelerated once from stop light to like 4500/5000 rpm at 3/4 throttle and it was more than the car had to offer floored and revved up to 6500 with previous cam... Its in a different league and sounds very serous and throaty on higher rpm.
Third thing I noticed is that it runs colder by about 20 degrees for some reason. Normally in very slow traffic it would overheat, but now it reached 200 degrees max. When driving it was holding 180 degrees vs 200 before the swap. I must check what thermostat I have. I triple checked the timing and it is as it used to be at 18 degrees initial and 36 total so exactly what I had with previous cam. I need to figure out why it is suddenly better. Any ideas? Carb was not touched yet and it seems that with bigger cam it is probably a bit on the lean side now right?

After coming back home I set the valve lash at .0022" hot as cam card says. I am writing this with a nice glass of beer :) Finally it feels like job done!

My Duster became seriously fast street car after this swap. I have 29/12.5/15 MT Sportsman Pro out back and at 45mph when I hit the throttle in 3rd gear it spins the tires.

Thanks again to everybody that helped out with parts choices and for pushrods rescue :)
That was very cool!

Cheers guys!
 
Miszny said:
Finally! :)
I did just over 100 miles today, took a LOOOOONG way to work and back in average traffic and some back roads and I am VERY happy with the result of this swap.
First off the car had higher oil pressure for first few miles when hot. It came back to 25psi (when in gear and standing still at 900 rpm) I had before after some driving. It idles really well at 900rpm and starts better when cold. I don't need to keep my foot in it when starting cold, only think I need to do is to press the gas pedal once before I turn the key and it runs at 700 rpm cold without any issues.
Second thing is low end torque and gas pedal response, the difference is more than I expected. On my way back home I accelerated once from stop light to like 4500/5000 rpm at 3/4 throttle and it was more than the car had to offer floored and revved up to 6500 with previous cam... Its in a different league and sounds very serous and throaty on higher rpm.
Third thing I noticed is that it runs colder by about 20 degrees for some reason. Normally in very slow traffic it would overheat, but now it reached 200 degrees max. When driving it was holding 180 degrees vs 200 before the swap. I must check what thermostat I have. I triple checked the timing and it is as it used to be at 18 degrees initial and 36 total so exactly what I had with previous cam. I need to figure out why it is suddenly better. Any ideas? Carb was not touched yet and it seems that with bigger cam it is probably a bit on the lean side now right?

After coming back home I set the valve lash at .0022" hot as cam card says. I am writing this with a nice glass of beer :) Finally it feels like job done!

My Duster became seriously fast street car after this swap. I have 29/12.5/15 MT Sportsman Pro out back and at 45mph when I hit the throttle in 3rd gear it spins the tires.

Thanks again to everybody that helped out with parts choices and for pushrods rescue :)
That was very cool!

Cheers guys!
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Excellent.

I do hope you wanted to type .022 valve lash hot and not .0022. If not you'll,have an issue.
 
FYI I tested the welded pushrods strength using press and applying vertical force on them... It took 3.5 tons to bend them, first the ball part on the bottom flattened and started cracking at just over 2.5 tons, then pushrod bent in the middle. Welded part was not affected at all by applied force.
I would not risk using them anyway. Also please have in mind that weld was made by skilled tig welder.
 
I don't think the static strength is at issue. What happens if you flex them 100,000 times with a valve spring load?
 
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