Front end wont stay aligned

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check your 3 gear box mounting bolts are tight.
reach in and turn your steering shaft with your hand...if the box
is loose you'll feel it.
 
Be careful... when not running, there is normally a degree of looseness in a power steering box; this is due to the movement needed for the internal control valving to work. When running and under pressure from the pump, this looseness should go away.
 
Another place to check is the upper frame where the UCA mounts to and the cam bolts go in.
They are known to rust through there around the mounts and the top of the frame between them. It's a perfect spot for dirt to accumulate there and trap moisture for years causing the rust out.
I have seen that on quite a few cars.
Actually, a friend of mine had the same problem a couple of years ago with his Demon and had to dig a little deeper to find this problem.
Yes, it was bondoed up by the previous owner to hide it. Pretty scary.......
We sectioned in a new frame rail from a good car to repair it.
 
I have a 1968 Dart GTS and I solved my camber and caster problems by replacing the stock upper control arms with an adjustable tubular control arm. No lost alignment now!
 
fgpope2000 said:
I have a 1968 Dart GTS and I solved my camber and caster problems by replacing the stock upper control arms with an adjustable tubular control arm. No lost alignment now!
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While that solved your problem, you have given the OP zero help. What was the cause of your car not being able to hold an alignment?
 
Make sure you do the UCA cam adjustmenst with the car on the ground, not jacked up, also make sure you have the thick serated cup/bevel washers on both ends of each UCA bush, they are serated to help grip the chassis rail bracket when you do up the cam bolts to prevent the UCA bushes from turning, if you have offset UCA bushes, make sure the rear bush is wound all the way in toward the engine and lock it down, (it cant go in any further then and gives you maximum caster which is what you want) then all your adjusting is the front cam bolts to set your camber, you can do this with the car on the ground, my car is lowered, Im 210Lb and can do it with ease. i do my own wheel alignments, an hour and Im done
 
I haven't got a chance to crawl under it yet because I'm putting my motor back together in my car right now.
I think I will start by realigning, marking cam bolts and give it a go again. I think Rusty is on target. Of course I will double check for cracks in k member first.
 
Jim Lusk said:
What you are describing sounds like too much toe-in pulling the car down on the stops. Jack the car up and set it back down. Then bounce it up and down multiple times. If the ride height is back where it was right after the alignment, you have found the problem.

Like I said, I have seen this otherwise I wouldn't believe it. We had slightly too much toe-in on my son's Barracuda. Pulled the front down in ten feet...
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This is exactly the problem. Jack it up, it's perfect again.
 
And by the way, I'm using the shops old but good Hunter alignment machine. It was recently recalibrate and works great, dads boss just wanted to upgrade to a newer laser machine.
 
GTSDustin said:
And by the way, I'm using the shops old but good Hunter alignment machine. It was recently recalibrate and works great, dads boss just wanted to upgrade to a newer laser machine.
Click to expand...

The OLD Hunter A-111 was one of the best machines I ever used. I wheeled that thing probably 10 miles a month I bet, because what I couldn't fit on the rack, I did in the parkin lot.
 
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