Otateral
Well-Known Member
I picked up some new 9" drums from my 69 valiant. They didn't come with the hub and I'm having a hell of a hard time finding them. Can anybody recommend a good place? Tried autozone, rockauto, oreilly, ebay. No luck.
Frustration with drum hub
- Thread starter Otateral
- Start date
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66plyValiant
Well-Known Member
not likely to find them in the aftermarket since there not part of the drums, used ones won't work? they usually never go bad unless someone ran bad bearing with them
Otateral
Well-Known Member
Is there a way to seperate them from the old drum?
66plyValiant
Well-Known Member
have the studs pressed out and it will nearly fall apart most times, if not press it off the drum
Arco440
Well-Known Member
Ok i have an old school auto parts place down the street i just called them and they are trying to find the hub for you.It may take him a day or to but i have had real good luck with them with stuff like this.
Moparparts
Well-Known Member
I have good used 9 inch hubs if you need them PM me
ragtopfury
Well-Known Member
just be careful not to bend the new drums when you press it all back together....
furydan
not so junior member
Thats what I did..now I have very shaky brakes till I can get all new..The old studs are SWEDGED in to lock them into the hub and have to be cut out or you risk bending the hub or the drum..Been there..done that.
There is some kind of swedge cutting tool, but I cant find one.
damnimcooltom
Too Cool For School
Plus, if you don't cut them before you press them out, they can hog out the knurl in the hub and any studs pressed through in the future may be loose, allowing them to spin if someone hits them with an impact wrench.
A swedge cutter used to be a tool that every brake mechanic had in his box. Most people don't even know what one is anymore.
Here is a decent article that shows what we're talking about:
http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/0805clt_1967_dodge_truck_brakes_dodgeing_disaster/index1.html
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Otateral
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info. Replied to PMs, everyones been very helpful.
Just for my own knowledge, this is the correct procedure?
Cut studs off hub while attached to the drum
Press the hub out of the drum
Press hub onto new drum
Put new studs on
That about right?
Just for my own knowledge, this is the correct procedure?
Cut studs off hub while attached to the drum
Press the hub out of the drum
Press hub onto new drum
Put new studs on
That about right?
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
You don't need a swedge cutter (but it's a lot easier with one). take drum and hub off and just drill the head of the lug stud from the backside with a 1/4 then 1/2 inch bit till you get down about 3/16 or 1/4 inch, smack the rest of the head off with a chisel and drive em through from the back side. It won't bend the hub hog out the holes or ruin the drum at all and you can then put in all right hand threaded studs so the tire guys don't twist em off for ya.. I just got done swapping hubs and drums on the 66 dart and then decided to go to disc. so the drums came off again and i used the orginal hubs for the disc conversion , it was easy this time.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
You can leave the studs in the hub, unless you really want to change to right-hand threads, and that would be driver's side only. Many cars besides Mopar used LH threads, so no excuse for tire guys spinning a stud. Goodyear monkeys did that to me and put it back without telling me, which I found on the highway when trying to remove the tire. I guess that is why they won't let you in the shop to watch them FU your car. I now bring the wheels in so less a tire shop can mess up.
I think swaged studs were before 1969. I don't recall my 1969 having them, but if the drums were changed, somebody already removed the swage. It was only to simplify factory installation and isn't needed with a new drum.
The way I remove a front drum is to find an remote parking lot and drop/throw the drum on the asphalt so the drum hits evenly around the sides. Repeat until the hub falls out.
No need to replace the hub unless a bearing race spun in it. That happened to me in my 69 Dart in ~1988 and I couldn't find a 9" hub in 4 junkyards in Atlanta (only 10"). Finally found one in rural TN. It is not a normal replacement part, so unlikely to find at an auto parts. Plus it would be expensive. Most mechanics would get a used one, which is why we need junkyards. The public doesn't know how the sausage is made or how their cars get fixed. When you can't find a part, try www.rockauto.com.
I think swaged studs were before 1969. I don't recall my 1969 having them, but if the drums were changed, somebody already removed the swage. It was only to simplify factory installation and isn't needed with a new drum.
The way I remove a front drum is to find an remote parking lot and drop/throw the drum on the asphalt so the drum hits evenly around the sides. Repeat until the hub falls out.
No need to replace the hub unless a bearing race spun in it. That happened to me in my 69 Dart in ~1988 and I couldn't find a 9" hub in 4 junkyards in Atlanta (only 10"). Finally found one in rural TN. It is not a normal replacement part, so unlikely to find at an auto parts. Plus it would be expensive. Most mechanics would get a used one, which is why we need junkyards. The public doesn't know how the sausage is made or how their cars get fixed. When you can't find a part, try www.rockauto.com.
Otateral
Well-Known Member
I have right hand threads all the way around, so maybe there would be no swedge. Would a photo of the backside of the hub help? Only got one of the outside of the drum. I still would like to get another hub so I'm holding out for that. I have only one car and its 5 miles to the nearest oreilly that will resurface drums. So if I had 2 working sets of drums/hubs, I could get one resurfaced while the other is on the car.
I've got the new drums, with the old ones still on the car. But they need resurfacing and would rather not pay the shop labor cost everytime I replace the brakes.
I've got the new drums, with the old ones still on the car. But they need resurfacing and would rather not pay the shop labor cost everytime I replace the brakes.
pishta
I know I'm right....
Swedge cutter looked like a deep hole saw, cuts the swedge donut right off flush with the stud and then it could be pressed out without damaging the knurl. Get then out from the back like posted, just dont press the swedge back through the hub.
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