Fuse Electric Trunk Release?

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Witchboard

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I pulled an electric trunk release from the local LKQ and I'm installing it in my 64 Barracuda. I've searched, but could only find topics where people are asking for them and not much about installing them. Those who have installed this, did you fuse it? If so, what size fuse did you use?
 
I pulled an electric trunk release from the local LKQ and I'm installing it in my 64 Barracuda. I've searched, but could only find topics where people are asking for them and not much about installing them. Those who have installed this, did you fuse it? If so, what size fuse did you use?
I didn't use a fuse because I got power from the trunk light circuit which is already fused. Where did you gat your power from?

Remote control trunk release
 
I have not yet run power to the release. Was working on getting a game plan together.

I disassembled mine to clean it out and straighten it a bit as it was dented. Looks like it's got it's own built in circuit breaker. When the trunk opens it cuts the connection to the solenoid. I'm just concerned if the trunk gets stuck shut or something.

My trunk lid has a telescopic support with no springs. Not sure if it's stock or not, but the locks have been shaved on the entire car, so I'm going to have to go electric for everything. Right now the trunk stays shut via gravity.
 
Bench test the lock with a multimeter measuring amps. If the mechanism automatically deactivates on opening keep it from doing that for this test.

Then activate it and measure the amps.

So CE you don't know what it is pulling start on the 10 amp scale then go down from there if it is in the 0.#### range

Keeping the lock release engaged for 30 seconds should give you a good idea how much current it will draw on worst case.

Then size your wires and fuse for 20% greater.
 
Ha, why didn't I think of that? Just finished the test. The coil draws 10 amps. So 20% more is 12 amps. I guess the gauge of wire would depend on how long the run would be.

I was incorrect on my previous statement that it breaks it's own circuit. It actually grounds though the metal part of the locking mechanism. There is an extra part on mine that looks like it must be for a warning light or something. Thanks again everybody!
 

Ha, why didn't I think of that? Just finished the test. The coil draws 10 amps. So 20% more is 12 amps. I guess the gauge of wire would depend on how long the run would be.

I was incorrect on my previous statement that it breaks it's own circuit. It actually grounds though the metal part of the locking mechanism. There is an extra part on mine that looks like it must be for a warning light or something. Thanks again everybody!
I would use 12 g wire and a 15 amp circuit.
 
Dang I was thinking like a few hundred milliamps, all it's doing is realeasing a lever to allow a part to move.

It's a coil similar to a pinball machine. It pulls an armature that hits a lever to open the trunk locking mechanism. I guess maybe it has to hit it pretty hard to unlock it. The first time I test fired it, it made me jump. I guess I should have expected it, but it just caught me off guard. Honestly, it was higher than I expected as well.
 
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