Garage heat

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If you cannot do anything else and decide you MUST operate a non-vented heater, AT LEAST GET IT OFF THE FLOOR.......about three feet off
 
Bill, I dont know how they dont trigger that CO detector.


The instruction manual that came with my kerosene forced-air heater claims that it has two built-in safety systems to prevent the generation of excessive CO. The first is a fuel mixture control valve with an O2 sensor in the exhaust, driving a feedback loop to the mixture control to maintain a stoichiometric burn, and the the second is a built-in CO detector. Both of these are supposed to cut off the fuel supply if something goes wrong. So the CO detector I have mounted on my wall is actually redundant. Of course, as we all know, safety features such as these can malfunction.

Oh yes, concerning the kerosene smell: you can get used to any smell, especially if it means not being able to drive your Mopar if you don't get used to it. Viz.: probably most of you guys think you don't have B.O.
 
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Back in my poorer then dirt days, I just happen to have a roll of plastic left over from a job I did earlier in the season. I cut up some cardboard strips and stapled the plastic to ceiling rafters and wall studs to create a dead air space. Took my knife and cut out the areas for switches, lights and outlets. I took my time and it looked great. I used a BBQ tank and heater, got about three days worth of burn time per fill, I would do this again if I had to. It did put a lot of moisture in the air, so body work and paint would not be advisable…..

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If you could dig a small trench (before the ground freezes) you could run a 220 line and if you got nat. gas they sell that yellow plastic stuff not very expensive run it to your fuse box and main gas line and I and others on the site can help you with the connections. Than you would have a lot more options. Been working on my barn, about 160 feet away ran 200 amp service and 1 1/4 gas line. gas line not finished with the gas line yet but about 60% done electric is all finished. You don't need 200 amp unless you are going run a lot of stuff 6 gauge will usually work well. Or you could just do one but if you are digging you might as well at least run both and just finish one at a time. The electric is easy to do. Than you can buy that big compressor. lol
 
^^This^^ Many "garage based" combustible vapors tend to be heavier than air, hug the floor. I don't remember the codes anymore, but electrics, switches, any spark/ ignition source is supposed to be "off the floor" of a residential garage. I could not remember if it was 18 or 24, or may have changed
 
^^This^^ Many "garage based" combustible vapors tend to be heavier than air, hug the floor. I don't remember the codes anymore, but electrics, switches, any spark/ ignition source is supposed to be "off the floor" of a residential garage. I could not remember if it was 18 or 24, or may have changed

Fuel Gas Code calls for 18". There are exceptions to this but they are on a case by case basis. The twist is that each municipality with an "Authority Having Jurisdiction" can modify that to anything. You'd have to check your local codes.
 
who the hell uses that much gas to start that...…. even a half gallon is dangerous! damn lucky that didn't go way worse.
 
who the hell uses that much gas to start that...…. even a half gallon is dangerous! damn lucky that didn't go way worse.

Yeah he was purdy stupid. I try to never use gas like that, BUT if it's all I have I pour some on and let it sit awhile. People just ain't got a lick of sense sometimes.
 
That video reminds me of my Dad when I was a kid. We had picked all the corn and had a large pile of dry cornstalks in the back yard. Dad decided he wanted to burn it and decided gas was a good idea. Dumped about a gallon of gas on the stalks, made the little ignition trail away from the pile. It was a warm day and Mom interrupted Dad's plan for about five minutes. He went back and touched it off...huge explosion...with the result that there were burning cornstalks everywhere. In the garden, on the street, on the roof. My Mother never let Dad forget that incident!
 
Yeah, the vapors from gas are more explosive than dynamite, or so I've been told.
 
Save your pennies and invest in something that will be your best friend for many winters to come. Have you priced seasoned cord wood lately?
Propane fired, exterior vented with exterior combustion air. I use 2, 100# tanks and have never used a full one in one winter however my garage is very well insulated.
Good luck.

Hot Dawg™ Garage Heater - Modine HVAC

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I have a radiant nat. gas heater , about 10x 20'' roughly , laying on the shelf, if some one is interested in it . It will give u headaches in a small low ceiling garage tho-----------
Mine is a fan powered tube heater...never any fumes. But a std. radiant works fine in the right area. I' ve been inside countless ag buildings where they are in use....high ceilings is the key
 
Here in the bowels of the Midwest (Chicago area) winter can be a Really Big Deal. So much so that it puts the binders on any serious work from mid-November through May, give or take depending on unseasonably warm or cold weather. My 2-1/2 car garage is un-insulated, unheated, and wired for 15 amps/110V, and fuses at that. Looking to find a reasonable solution for heating while I'm out working during the winter months. Given the wiring issues, I'm thinking electric heat may be out of the question for the immediate future. There is no provision for natural gas, either...which leaves me with very few options. And I don't want to get fumed out by a kerosene heater either. Anyone had good luck with a propane-fired heater or electric infared heaters that don't draw a lot of wattage?
 
With radiant tube heater you need a high ceiling as it can damage paint. Im in Toronto so I feel your pain a propane heater with fan assist is your best bet. I use a hot dawg heater and have never had a bit of trouble I leave it on set at 62 and turn it up when Im working on my car. It might be a good idea to insulate first as it will cut down on cost.
 
Best thing I ever did was to stop using the floor torpedo heater (loud and takes up valuable floor space) and installed a Modine Hot Dawg 75K natural gas heater

Did it all myself, including the gas line run (3/4" at 70-ish feet), the roof vent, electrical, etc

Total investment was $750ish, including the heater

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heat throw and fan size are also important

Some of the smaller hanging heaters has 8" to 10" fans and only blow heat 20-24 feet

My garage is long and narrow, so the 14" fan on my heater helps to blow the warm out much farther
 
If electric heat is not an option, go with a safely vented gas option. I have a fairly inexpensive 240 volt heater that does a real nice job on my 25x25 well insulated garage. Speaking of insulation, IMO you MUST insulate before you even think about heat. It won't be that expensive.
 
Yeah, the vapors from gas are more explosive than dynamite, or so I've been told.

I have always used gas to start my wood piles , but not nearly that much , and always make a fairly long fuse , and set the can a long way off from the fuse .
I did get some gas from a leaking spout on my boots once , and had to jump in the creek to put them out . I use less and less the older I get ---------
 
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