gearbox install advice

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Darren

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hey guys i just installed my 4 speed box to my 68 383. the engine is on a crattle on the floor. i installed a new pilot bushing and a new mcleod clutch and TO bearing and had the fly wheel resurfaced. my problem is i had a hell of time getting the box to line up. i used a alignment tool. i once put the box in under the car and i had less problems then tonight on the floor. i had to pull the last 3/4 " together wiht the bolts. but it slid together good. is this normal when you are using new parts like i did? thanks
 
Alignment tools are not always accurate. The BEST alignment tool, bar none, is an old input shaft, and if possible, one with a collar adapted to it to pilot right in the bell center hole.

Sometimes I used to leave the clutch cover bolts loose, and if I had trouble, I'd pull them out "sloppy and throw some longer bolts in the holes to allow the disc to move. This was pretty extreme, and soon after...............I scored a pilot shaft!!!! LOL

I had the box in/ out of my old 383 RR several times, now THAT is a story...............and it was done every single time with the front end on big blocks, and a floor jack for a trans jack.

The rundown..........

1.....The box ate the main center ball bearing unknown to me......I was inexperienced at the time.

I ran it until it damage the nose of the mainshaft.


San Diego Machine talked me into repairing the mainshaft with a collar. New bearings of course

put it together.

2......The collar failed. A piece ate about 1/10 of a corner of the cluster.

Pulled it apart. New mainshaft. Left old cluster

3....Cluster failed, took out the mainshaft and the cluster.

I lost count. How many times is that?

By comparison, the V code 70 had the box out twice, for new clutches, and replace the bearings in the box. Side cover off once for a broke 3-4 shift fork.
 
wow hope thatis not my path.
is it normal to pull the last 3/4" together using the box bolts?
thanks
 
Definitely not normal! Those plastic line-up tools are very tricky. I never have a problem if I have used an old input shaft. You may have a serious problem; or maybe not. Get to the root of it before installing the assy into the chassis or risk an expensive redo. Mine slide together like a hot knife through butter.
 
I would be worried that the pilot shaft bushing in the crank was too small/tight fit.
That's just about the 3/4 inch you struggled with. At least you didn't break a bolt ear off the trans case. That's more common with aluminum cases.
 
the line up tool slide in really good. i had no problems installing my new pilot bushing.
i might take it apart again tonight and check it out. thanks
 
I agree^^ you should not have to horse it in with the bolts. This can be subjective. You often need to "coax" it in with the bolts but this should take VERY little force. Snug up the bolts, wiggle the box, and it should pop right in.
 
was this a automatic car switched to a four speed ?you might check input depth to make sure its deep enough for the input or you'll need to trim a little off the inputshaft. if you keep having problems this is where you should start looking,good luck.
 
I had a trans that wouldn't go in no matter what we did, after using the plastic alignment tool. After all the cussing and fighting, I put a ratcheting strap on the clutch fork, and the other end on the tail shafts gave it a few cranks, and it slid right in. If you pulled the trans in with the bolts, and it went in smoothly without cranking hard on the bolts, it should be fine.
 
hey guys i got home after work and took it all apart. everthing looked good. so instead of using the plastic linning tool i used the input shaft on the tranny. then i put the bell on. then i slid in the tranny with no problem. i guess it was the plastic linning tool like 67Dart273 said. thanks guys.
 

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