Get rid of points
- Thread starter 1911a1
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Boy you hit the nail on the head with that one.
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
This on the inner fender looks to be the seatbelt interlock over-ride.
Looked like this when before spray painting.
Pressing the button allowed the starter to get power without seatbelt interlock working. One time. Then it resets itself.
Many people bypass the interlock when the wiring gets troublesome.
For example here Jumper Wire to coil
On the ballast resistor, there should be a short jumper between the 0.5 and the ohm resistors. This feeds is where the power from the ignition run wire branches to the coil (though the half ohm resistor) and the ECU. The original ECU's got power in parallel from the ignition, and through the 5 ohm resistor.
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
That's a mess. On most years the wire harness (bundle) runs along the inside of the valve cover. A disadvantage of the aftermarket valve covers is there is no provision to hold the wire harness. Loose wires over the exhaust will surely vibrate the connectors and get toasted too.
You can buy the correct wire terminals and some harness tape to rewrap. You'll need an 'open barrel' crimper.
This is a '72 but same idea
Grommet is probably for A/C wires or sending units. The grommet used with the optional heavy duty alterntor and heated back glass would have larger wires and round connectors on them. One version seen here
Guessing this wire might be the ignition feed to an electric choke or choke assist.
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I really like the jegs distributor and replacement ECU for small block mopar a high performance conversion. The distributor is fire core and very tunable. The ECU is the higher rev 7500 I've used them for years with great success.
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
Here's some photos of a really nice '74 engine bay restored.
Resources
Resources
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step one: get your wiring sorted out.
it don't matter if you got points or electronic if your 'lectric pixie highways look like that kinda spaghetti farm it's only a matter of time before you're walking.
car is already set up for factory electronic. you may need to slightly alter the lengths and routing of some wires and possibly relocate some components, but it should be fairly plug and play to drop a new unit it.
it don't matter if you got points or electronic if your 'lectric pixie highways look like that kinda spaghetti farm it's only a matter of time before you're walking.
car is already set up for factory electronic. you may need to slightly alter the lengths and routing of some wires and possibly relocate some components, but it should be fairly plug and play to drop a new unit it.
I see wiring like that and it just kills me.
I’m old enough to know that way too many cars have been wasted by guys trashing the wiring.
I’m not blaming the OP for his wiring mess, but I’ve seen it many times. Guys hacking and connecting and using crap connections when they do it and it just ruins the car.
That and hacking the dash to out a stereo in them. Just damn. I feel bad for the OP. That sucks.
same, brother. the pain is real.
if i go to look at a car and it's got gacked up wiring that's an automatic chunk of change off the price; and it triggers the thought of: if you couldn't be bothered to get this very important aspect right, what else is awaiting me when i start peeling back the layers and poking in the dark corners?
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
That’s the problem buying ANY old cars. The guys who have worked (I use that word very loosely) on them previously. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, the first month or two after buying anything I spend unfucking all the garbage the PO did or added.
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
They're both nice looking cars in their own ways.
You don't have to take the Duster off th eroad for months.
A few afternoons or evenings (if you have light). Should get the critical wires into better condition and better supported.
The crimper is the same as will be used with Packard 56 terminals common on GM products.
Wire can be bought from a marine supply, Wire barn, and other places.
I usually mail order shrink tubing from McMaster-Carr.
The general scheme of the critical circuits can be hard to see from the shop manual electrical diagrams. That's why I redraw the circuits of interest. But you will want the shop manual diagrams if you don't already have. 1974 is a tougher year to read electrically because of the seat belt interlock along with other changes, but the basic scheme is still pretty simple.
With the engine running, electricity flows from the alternator (R6 wire) through two connectors to the key switch. Then to the Ignition Circuit (J2) which feeds both the ignition and the alternator field. The voltage regulator 'sense' terminal is also connected to the ignition run circuit. If the batteryneeds recharging some current branches off at the main splice and goes to the battery.
To run a points distributor is practically the same except there is no ECU that needs power.
All someone would have needed to do was connect the negative of the coil to the distributor instead of to the ECU.
You don't have to take the Duster off th eroad for months.
A few afternoons or evenings (if you have light). Should get the critical wires into better condition and better supported.
The crimper is the same as will be used with Packard 56 terminals common on GM products.
Wire can be bought from a marine supply, Wire barn, and other places.
I usually mail order shrink tubing from McMaster-Carr.
The general scheme of the critical circuits can be hard to see from the shop manual electrical diagrams. That's why I redraw the circuits of interest. But you will want the shop manual diagrams if you don't already have. 1974 is a tougher year to read electrically because of the seat belt interlock along with other changes, but the basic scheme is still pretty simple.
With the engine running, electricity flows from the alternator (R6 wire) through two connectors to the key switch. Then to the Ignition Circuit (J2) which feeds both the ignition and the alternator field. The voltage regulator 'sense' terminal is also connected to the ignition run circuit. If the batteryneeds recharging some current branches off at the main splice and goes to the battery.
To run a points distributor is practically the same except there is no ECU that needs power.
All someone would have needed to do was connect the negative of the coil to the distributor instead of to the ECU.
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AHHAHAHAHAHHA
*takes a deep breath*
HAHAHHAHAAHAHA
*passes out*
....
*wakes up some time later*
you fool! you absolute buffoon! you fell for one of the classic blunders!! the first of which is never go in against a Sicilian when death is on the line; and the slightly less known is never buy a kick around car when you already have a project car! the kick around always becomes the project!!
but that's how you get to Quintessential Unfucker status! ;D
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
That’s my superhero name.
Quintessential? The distillery owner and head distiller is Murphy Quint so the name makes sense.
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Excuses excuses. lol Trust me. I feel the pain at only 60. I was way too hard on my body early on. Daddy always warned me too, but here I am.
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Woody500
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the pics Geo. Saved me the trouble of explaining this again without any photos. And as shown in your diagram, but not pointed out it can all be mounted remotely.
Points would certainly still be a usable system if proper capacity condensers were still available. I had them last for over 20 years, without the points burning, long ago. Had same points in a Chris-Craft for longer than that. We still ran them, as boats can go where there are no tow trucks, and those spares take up no space. Always carried a Diamond Deb , SS diamond coated nail file, in toolbag, to re-dress them. That's a lot harder to do on a SB A-body.
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Woody500
Well-Known Member
Pertronix didn't used to be so reliable, is why we stayed with points years ago.
I remember hearing one or two failures of all the members on all these sites.
Woody500
Well-Known Member
IIRC that was their first generation units that were not as reliable. Heard it from more than a few people, but it may've been around 40 years ago.
I have done a ton of the pertonix I units no failures except bran new out of the box. Now the II and III not so much. Do like the 510 ignition boxes just like MSD but way better.
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