Great, I'm f*cked...Threw a rod...(bearing)

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if you want/ need to, you can go the down any dirty way, grab some emery cloth, and a bearing, clean the crank, slap the bearing in, and take it easy until you can fix it right, I've done this a few times in the past, the last time was last year, a rod in my truck looked like yours, I was in Florida, had to be back in Ohio on Monday for work, did like your doing, pulled a all night er in my brothers drive, he thought I was nuts, said I'd never make it home, sad to say, I still haven't changed the rod, still going strong, yeah I can be a dirt ball.
 
The car was $500 right? Well then, figure out which rod has a bad bearing and replace it. You can probably use some fine emery cloth on the cap and around the crank to clean it up a bit and slap that thing back together. Flush it out before you do though. Start at the bottom and spray off what you can. I'd take the valve cover off too, then flush from the top with carb cleaner down through and then do the bottom again. Once the car is back together, run the oil for a short time, and change it with a new filter to get as much as you can. I'l bet the darn thing will hold together for at least a year after this, unless you lose another bearing.
 
Dang, if that rod got that hot it had to be running metal to metal, the other metal being your crank, I bet that crank journal looks like hell...
 
Sorry to hear about your rotten luck. I would go to car-part.com and see if there is one close to you.
I have had great luck with that site, on several occasions.

Oh, and with the rod being that black, the crank is going to look really bad. It will not hold a bearing very long, not worth your trouble. Been there, done it.

I was putting a bearing in the 440 in my 67 R/T almost weekly for a while, and it wasn't that bad.
 
If the crank is scored badly or the bearing spun and you want to patch it long enough to dump it, I saw an old trick from a guy who owned a used car lot he "made" a bearing out of a thick piece of leather.
 
put some leather on the bad bearing,it will last for a while,back when i was a kid in MI,we got beaters for 0.00-100.00,the good ole days
 
dustoff440 said:
If the crank is scored badly or the bearing spun and you want to patch it long enough to dump it, I saw an old trick from a guy who owned a used car lot he "made" a bearing out of a thick piece of leather.
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ya beat me to it,my dad told me that trick when he traded in a 39 Grahme
 
I've seen guys put "sawdust" in an engine to quieten it down to unload it.. I've heared from older guys doing model A engine bearings with leather...
 
I just did a search on Car-Part.com and there are a lot of them around you, the closest is about 26 miles from your zip code. They run from $350 to $600, with a bunch of them that says to just call.
I was assuming it was the base motor 1.6 not the 2.0 or 2.2.

Good luck, hope this helps.
 
Well he has it that far. Take it off and inspect it maybe it isnt that bad. MAYBE you can get it to where it will run to get you by. You may have to pull it anyways so a new bearing and see what it does once you clean it all up.
 
I would go with the emery cloth as suggested. Give the crank journal a really good cleaning.Wrap some 400 grit around it after the emery cloth and polish it up as best you can.

I would throw another rod at it,fill the crankcase with good synthetic and pray.Maybe it'll hold together long enough to find a replacement motor or car.
 
I used to work for toyota and I'll say this. That discoloration of that one rod and the crank journal means that pup got HOT. If it's discolored, that means it got hot enough to change the temper of the steel. Toyota would say to replace one rod and the crank......or they would also give the dealer the option to short block it. I know that "I" personally would not run that rod or crank again.
 
So here's what the rod bearing looks like, and also the main bearing right next to it....

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What does the "crank" look like?? That should be your main concern if you're going to bandaid it up and try to run it...
 
greenhornet said:
What does the "crank" look like?? That should be your main concern if you're going to bandaid it up and try to run it...
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Yep, those bearings don't really look that bad. Those Toyota rods must be made out of pot metal, to turn black with the bearing still looking like that. :D

I bet he can save the crank with emery paper, and put it back together. At least for a little while.
 
Yeah man running cars here are expensive. I sold my 2000 nissan altima with two working gears and 120,000 miles on it for $1,500. That car leaked gear oil like there was no tomorrow, and it was either rebuild/replace the tranny, or sell the car, and I was tired of that car, so bam.

I hope you get your car up and running, good luck man.
 
Just throw 2 new bearings in it and call it good! Remember this is your BEATER car, who cares. Fix it cheap and drive it until it takes a complete chittt on you!

I did it on a 318 when I was a kid. Barked second gear and then knock, knock, knock! Yea I revvvveddd the chitttt out of it, haaaaaa.
I put a bearing on that rod and drove that car for at least another 20k before I sold it.
 
HemiEd said:
Yep, those bearings don't really look that bad. Those Toyota rods must be made out of pot metal, to turn black with the bearing still looking like that. :D

I bet he can save the crank with emery paper, and put it back together. At least for a little while.
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X2 on the rods, if you can smooth the crank up I'd throw some bearings in it and run it...
 
It appears to be OKAY....Not perfect, BUT I think emory cloth should be able to clean it up okay...I found a set of standard crank main and rod bearings, and thrust bearing all for 42 bucks.....

See if I can't "push" the rest of the bearings out without having to drop the crank (meaning pull the motor). And slide the new ones in after a nice emory cloth polishing...lol I'm probably just gonna do that, see where it takes me...Bolt it back up and run it...LOL. Am I wasting my time?? Looking for a patch job here, who knows, Maybe I could get 10k miles out of it. LOL

Either wait until tomorrow for those bearings to come in, or drive an hour to go pick them up, (my buddy offered to use his motorcycle). lol
 
man that sucks can you just drop a set of barrings in it and call it good? is there any damage to the crank, rods, mains? and for a cheep fix to get you by for a while that might work.
 
03ramit1 said:
man that sucks can you just drop a set of barrings in it and call it good? is there any damage to the crank, rods, mains? and for a cheep fix to get you by for a while that might work.
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Thats what I'm thinking...From what I can see, there is no hardcore scoring to the crank, or any of the main/rod caps...

EDIT:

It appears the rod bearing actually "spun", and wore the little tab off that keeps it in place, which probably means I can't re-use the rod, since it might not hold the new bearing tightly, and will just spin again...hell i dont know..
 
mopardude318 said:
Thats what I'm thinking...From what I can see, there is no hardcore scoring to the crank, or any of the main/rod caps...

EDIT:

It appears the rod bearing actually "spun", and wore the little tab off that keeps it in place, which probably means I can't re-use the rod, since it might not hold the new bearing tightly, and will just spin again...hell i dont know..
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To be done right, yes you should recondition the rod. But, in this case, not so much.

When a rod bearing loses it's tension, or temper, or shape, it can spin. It is just a matter of time. That is what keeps the little tab pushed out there in the slot.
And it is almost always the back one that goes first, because it is the first one to starve of oil, and the first one to get the foreign crap pumped to it.

When you put new bearings in, they fit tight because they slightly compress when you put them in.

Considering your program, I wouldn't worry about the rod.
 
I have been in the same boat before James and I have did the emory cloth trick before also.

normally I use the trick if I have a nice crank that might have developed a bit of surface rust and I need to clean it up back to a nice finish......not so much as a method of removing material from the crank....just as a polish.

I always dip my emory strips in oil to keep it nice and smooth.

as long as your crank journal isnt all goudged up i think you will be alright using that trick.

as far as if the crank lost any strength from the heat......who knows how long it will hold up.

But hey, its your $500.00 beater.....fix it as cheap as you can and if you feel you don't want to risk it blowing up on you.....fix it and then take the opportunity to sell it for enough to go out and pick up a different "beater"

good long on however you plan to do it....but if I know you like I think I do, you jump on a problem and get right to work so I bet you will have it up and going in no time buddy.

hope everything works out for you!
 
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