Great, I'm f*cked...Threw a rod...(bearing)

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Sorry to hear, wish I could offer you some help! I'd be there wrenching with you with a few left-handers as well!!
 
Well, I got all the bearings pulled, was pretty difficult with the crank in the engine...lol. 1/2 were good, the rest were hammered...I hope it will be easy to slide the new ones in. My rod cap cleaned up decent with some emery cloth...

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Tonight I will polish all the main and rod journals...what a tedious little job to do in such a limited amount of space, about a foot from my face as I lay under the car on my back., oil dripping in my eyes... LOL
 
mopardude318 said:
Thats what I'm thinking...From what I can see, there is no hardcore scoring to the crank, or any of the main/rod caps...

EDIT:

It appears the rod bearing actually "spun", and wore the little tab off that keeps it in place, which probably means I can't re-use the rod, since it might not hold the new bearing tightly, and will just spin again...hell i dont know..
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Just so you know, that tab does nothing to keep the bearing from spinning. It is only there to properly locate the bearing and that's all.
 
mopardude318 said:
Well, I got all the bearings pulled, was pretty difficult with the crank in the engine...lol. 1/2 were good, the rest were hammered...I hope it will be easy to slide the new ones in. My rod cap cleaned up decent with some emery cloth...



Tonight I will polish all the main and rod journals...what a tedious little job to do in such a limited amount of space, about a foot from my face as I lay under the car on my back., oil dripping in my eyes... LOL
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Looks like it was time for some bearings...
 
I admire your attitude. Most would just lay down and die...whether it runs good, or it blows up, at least you did SOMETHING!

It just might run fine, you'll only know if you try.
I'm laughing right now because of how you described the situation...with the crank 1 inch from your face and oil dripping everywhere. ha! Been there! And it sucks!

Carry on!
 
StrokerScamp said:
Just so you know, that tab does nothing to keep the bearing from spinning. It is only there to properly locate the bearing and that's all.
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Stroker, your kidding, right? The tabs lock the bearing against the non machined mating surface. If they just laid in there with no positive lock mechanism, they would all spin.
If you are up to it, stake the rod side bearing with a pin, like a piece of a drill bit. Drill out about 5mm deep and hammer the next size drill bit in there and then grind almost flush, leave enough to catch the same sized hole in the top of the bearing, dont worry about the bottom, it aint goiing anywhere. You are doing this on your driveway right...with a time limit? Think of a derby car between rounds.. Just get 'er done!
 
The fabo team is rooting for ya. Got my fingers crossed. I cant believe youre photographing this. I would be too buzy thrashing to take pics. But thanks for including us.
 
Well, after further investigation, the number 1 rod journal is FUBAR...Its pretty rough, and my brother says it will not polish out...I want to try it though and see how good I can get it...He says it's pretty bad...LOL..

Dangit, I guess I might have to pull the engine out, what a crazy mess that will be...Don't really know how to do it... Someone here recommended a japanese pull out motor? Where to find one? I have a 2.2 liter...
 
pishta said:
Stroker, your kidding, right? The tabs lock the bearing against the non machined mating surface. If they just laid in there with no positive lock mechanism, they would all spin.
If you are up to it, stake the rod side bearing with a pin, like a piece of a drill bit. Drill out about 5mm deep and hammer the next size drill bit in there and then grind almost flush, leave enough to catch the same sized hole in the top of the bearing, dont worry about the bottom, it aint goiing anywhere. You are doing this on your driveway right...with a time limit? Think of a derby car between rounds.. Just get 'er done!
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No, I'm not kidding. The tangs have nothing to do with keeping the bearing in place. Nothing. Several car companies make engines without locating tangs. Bearing CRUSH is the only thing that does it. Here is a good read on it.

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/68208/get_your_bearings.aspx

They are LOCATING tangs. Nothing more.
 
Man there's no way I could do what you're doing. Working on cars is the last thing I can do under pressure, guess it's why I'm not a mechanic lol... Every repair "task" I've tried has ended many days later than planned.

In fact I need to replace the blown clutch slave cylinder in my Jeep but have been putting off the work until I get the new part, and even then it probably won't be until Thursday I get it finished.
 
Rob is the man when it comes to stuff like this.

Great guy to get good info from.
 
MOPEkidD-3 said:
Man there's no way I could do what you're doing. Working on cars is the last thing I can do under pressure, guess it's why I'm not a mechanic lol... Every repair "task" I've tried has ended many days later than planned.

In fact I need to replace the blown clutch slave cylinder in my Jeep but have been putting off the work until I get the new part, and even then it probably won't be until Thursday I get it finished.
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HA! I am no mechanic!!! Not at all! Just a backyard bonehead who TRIES to figure stuff out...LOL I learn as I go with everything, and all I know about this car is what that little chilton's manual tells me to do!!!

1wild&crazyguy said:
push the rod up some , pop the old bearing out, run some emery cloth over the journal, stick new bearing in and cross you fingers.
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Man.. Wild, I do want to do this, and tomorrow I will see how good I can get that number 1 rod journal to look...

Badart said:
I agree.
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LOL, If you guys say so, I'll see how good I can get it. LOL
 
StrokerScamp said:
Thanks, but believe me when I say opinions vary.
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Yeah, Rob I respect your knowledge very much, but don't totally agree with this. I agree bearing crush is the one of the determining factors on a bearing spinning, as my previous post said.

But I have had the tangs hold them, prior to them spinning, when they have lost their crush.

The tangs are located opposite, on each half, and hit on the other half. I believe it is the metal losing it's properties, after losing its crush, that finally let the tangs release. The crush actually forces the tangs out into the slots in the rod.

After 45 years of dealing with this issue, I am not buying that article. I have torn down too many motors where the tangs were still holding bearings that have lost their crush.

I used to help with an alky aluminum rod motor, that had pins, that kept the bearing from spinning.
 
dont forget the tensioner/loader on the rod caps of top fuel aluminum rods.
they stretch after a lil while and frequently get swapped.

Neat lil rods, they sell'em as souvenirs at pomona.
 
HemiEd said:
Yeah, Rob I respect your knowledge very much, but don't totally agree with this. I agree bearing crush is the one of the determining factors on a bearing spinning, as my previous post said.

But I have had the tangs hold them, prior to them spinning, when they have lost their crush.

The tangs are located opposite, on each half, and hit on the other half. I believe it is the metal losing it's properties, after losing its crush, that finally let the tangs release. The crush actually forces the tangs out into the slots in the rod.

After 45 years of dealing with this issue, I am not buying that article. I have torn down too many motors where the tangs were still holding bearings that have lost their crush.

I used to help with an alky aluminum rod motor, that had pins, that kept the bearing from spinning.
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I hear you. But BMW has been making tangless bearing engines a long time. So, bearing crush must contribute somehow.
 
Im agreeing.You got this far.Emery them as good as you can,put the bearings in,and just drive it when you really really need to until you find another car .And after you find another car,drain the oil in the Toyota and rev it until the engine seizes.:-D
 
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