Green bearing open vs. sure grip problem

[demulsion]

I picked up a used set of axles for my 8.75 and have been running them for a little while with a Sure Grip. I tried swapping in a set of open highway gears tonight, and can't get the axles to seat all the way in. If I tighten one side all the way down, the flange on the other axle will only go in to flush with the ends of the axle tube studs. Has anyone run into this before?

'69 pickup housing cut down for an A-body.

 

[pettybludart]

Did you swap just the gears or the whole chunk?If you swapped chunks,you might have to remove the block from inside the center of the hyw gear chunk.Look through the one you removed,it probably has the block removed.

 

[abodyjoe]

you might have to remove the block from inside the center of the hyw gear chunk.Look

i see this problem a lot. i have always used moser axles when changing to large bolt pattern and have never had to remove that block. i guess other places make the axles a little too long for some reason.

 

[Keith Mopar]

i see this problem a lot. i have always used moser axles when changing to large bolt pattern and have never had to remove that block. i guess other places make the axles a little too long for some reason.

I used yukon Axles and didn't have to remove the block. I have heard of people having to remove the block as well.

 

[66340SEDAN]

I used yukon Axles and didn't have to remove the block. I have heard of people having to remove the block as well.

Same here

 

[younggun2.0]

i ordered a complete moser rear with axels and had to remove the thrust bushings. the shitty part is you always find out after you have installed the center section and gasket sealer.

 

[SGBARRACUDA]

Best course to take is if your going to run Green style axle bearings. Take the thrust block out of the center of the carrier. This way you won't have this problem when using any axle.

 

[younggun2.0]

Best course to take is if your going to run Green style axle bearings. Take the thrust block out of the center of the carrier. This way you won't have this problem when using any axle.

unless you go back to the tapered bearings. you have to have the thrust blocks to adjust bearing lash. the green bearing (sealed, non adjustable) eliminates the need for any bearing lash adjustment.

 

[SGBARRACUDA]

unless you go back to the tapered bearings. you have to have the thrust blocks to adjust bearing lash. the green bearing (sealed, non adjustable) eliminates the need for any bearing lash adjustment.

That is why my first comment was, IF YOUR GOING TO RUN GREEN STYLE BEARINGS!

 

[mikedevore]

I bought a pair of Moser's a few years back for a street project.
Instructed them I was using the tapered bearings.
After installing them, found the axles were too long & unable to adjust the bearing pre-load.
Moser told me to just grind of the needed clearance (1/8") from the end of the axle.
Although I thought that was a little crude, I did take them to a machine shop to have it cut off.
I have had no problems with it after doing this.

 

[younggun2.0]

That is why my first comment was, IF YOUR GOING TO RUN GREEN STYLE BEARINGS!

got it. the OP just seemed to be new to the bearing situation. I was just trying to point out what the thrust bushing was for. in case he didn't know. not discounting what you stated.

 

[abodyjoe]

Best course to take is if your going to run Green style axle bearings. Take the thrust block out of the center of the carrier. This way you won't have this problem when using any axle.

hell best thing would be them to make the proper size axle..

 

[demulsion]

I did have to remove the thrust bushings from the sure grip center when I installed these axles. I thought the open diffs were set up differently, but I'll check it out again (I never looked too close as I've only ever removed them...). I might just grind the axles down like mikedevore mentioned. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something stupid first (it was midnight when I was working on it, after all).
I'm somewhat familiar with the green vs. tapered bearing situation, but definitely still learning. I've always run tapered, but was in a bind and I got these axles with green bearings on them cheap second hand. So I'm running them for now.

 

[fishy68]

I did have to remove the thrust bushings from the sure grip center when I installed these axles. I thought the open diffs were set up differently, but I'll check it out again (I never looked too close as I've only ever removed them...). I might just grind the axles down like mikedevore mentioned. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something stupid first (it was midnight when I was working on it, after all).
I'm somewhat familiar with the green vs. tapered bearing situation, but definitely still learning. I've always run tapered, but was in a bind and I got these axles with green bearings on them cheap second hand. So I'm running them for now.

All factory 3rd members have either thrust buttons (clutch type sure grip) or a thrust block (cone type sure grip and open differentials). If they didn't there would be nothing for the axles to but against to set the end play. Open diffs and cone type SG's are slightly more work to modify for green bearings because you have to slip the spider cross pin out to remove the thrust block.

As per Joe, I can't understand why aftermarket can't make them the right size either. Extra long axles are useless IMO because it's not like the splines go all the way through the diff so you get more spline engagement. For that reason I see no issue with trimming them down to fit as long as you measure properly.

 

[demulsion]

All factory 3rd members have either thrust buttons (clutch type sure grip) or a thrust block (cone type sure grip and open differentials). If they didn't there would be nothing for the axles to but against to set the end play.

Yeah...duh.

I'll pull the axles, measure and remeasure everything, and then either cut the axles or make a shim for behind the axles flange. Thanks for the guidance.

 

[Mopar92]

I just got the heads up on here from another member this morning. I really appreciate the membership and the Mopar brotherhood help! I'm about to put greenies in my open diff 8.75. So is the answer "remove the thrust block"? It's all apart so now would be the time to do it. Is it safe and or OK to remove the thrust block so the axles seat all the way? Thanks.

 

[abodyjoe]

I just got the heads up on here from another member this morning. I really appreciate the membership and the Mopar brotherhood help! I'm about to put greenies in my open diff 8.75. So is the answer "remove the thrust block"? It's all apart so now would be the time to do it. Is it safe and or OK to remove the thrust block so the axles seat all the way? Thanks.

the only true answer is:

if it needs to be removed then remove it.

if it doesn't need to be removed then leave it in there..

a lot depends on your axles.

 

[Mopar92]

But the thrust block in an open diff doesn't serve any other purpose but the get proper bearing play for the stock style taper bearings? In other words it's not going to mess up anything else if I have to remove it? Thanks Joe!

 

[abodyjoe]

No. With green bearing you can remove it. If I don't have to I just leave it there. Never know if/when that center may go into something with stock tapered bearings.

 

[Mopar92]

Right. Thanks Joe.

 

[SGBARRACUDA]

X2 remove them with the green style bearings