Bill here is what will fit. 75-79 Cordoba,75-77 Charger,75-77 Fury and Coronet B Body Models,78-79 Magnum. If you target a Charger only 73-74 you will pay a higher premium for the k frame for them than the others.
Green Envy
- Thread starter Old Tired Rebel
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Bill here is what will fit. 75-79 Cordoba,75-77 Charger,75-77 Fury and Coronet B Body Models,78-79 Magnum. If you target a Charger only 73-74 you will pay a higher premium for the k frame for them than the others.
Oklacarcollecto
Life is an experiment
Your car is a 73 correct? There are alot of other K-frames that show to interchange than the Charger prior to the change. There is a split starting 10/19/73 as the end date of that K-frame. Now we all know that there is also a split between the 72 and 73 A-Bodies but either will work. Does the split make any difference on your car or it is like the A-Bodies.
No mine is a 74 so the years I posted would be correct and interchange.
Oklacarcollecto
Life is an experiment
Lol, you were talking to Lance and called him 73 is where i got that when I went back and looked. Now where is that "Senior Moments" thread?
Now you went and lost that thread where you can't remember anything
Oklacarcollecto
Life is an experiment
There are still some 8-318 & 8-360, from 10/20/73 K-frames where I found the original ones we talked about. There is one low priced one that we talked about left, the next one jumps $75.00 and all the rest say call.
The 318-360 are the same. Can you pm me the prices and what they are out of? Also will we need to pick them up?
Oklacarcollecto
Life is an experiment
Here is the list of what is in Oklahoma. Each car is a different car even though that model may appear more than once.
1976 Engine Cradle Chrysler Cordoba
1975 Engine Cradle Chrysler Cordoba
1980 Chrysler New Yorker RWD
1974 Dodge Charger
1975 Dodge Coronet
1978 Dodge Monaco (1978 Down)
1975 Plymouth Fury
1976 Plymouth Fury
1978 Plymouth Fury
1974 Plymouth Satellite
1974 Plymouth Satellite
1974 Plymouth Satellite
The New Yorker sounds strange but it crosses by looking it up under your Charger and the 1980 New Yorker V8. 1981 New Yorker V8 also crosses but 1982 changed.
1976 Engine Cradle Chrysler Cordoba
1975 Engine Cradle Chrysler Cordoba
1980 Chrysler New Yorker RWD
1974 Dodge Charger
1975 Dodge Coronet
1978 Dodge Monaco (1978 Down)
1975 Plymouth Fury
1976 Plymouth Fury
1978 Plymouth Fury
1974 Plymouth Satellite
1974 Plymouth Satellite
1974 Plymouth Satellite
The New Yorker sounds strange but it crosses by looking it up under your Charger and the 1980 New Yorker V8. 1981 New Yorker V8 also crosses but 1982 changed.
MoparDaddy
Damn Right I Carry!
Didn't they go to fwd with the New Yorker in 82?
The New Yorker in 82 with a V8 was a 5th Ave
Oklacarcollecto
Life is an experiment
They made only RWD in 1982 but made both starting in 1983. The last of the RWD was 1989.
Dart_Doctor
Asa style
:happy1:
My son was able to pull my dash frame out. I have been working on the heater box. yesterday but had to stop. here is a few pictures. Also I have a new goal,I want to be able to enjoy my Charger so if I can get it up and running and drivable. The rest can be done a bit at a time.
This is the worst rust I have found other than the drivers floor.
If any one knows where there is a good A pillar for a 73-74 Charger for cheap please pm me here.
Got that welder fired up yet?
Not sure what it takes to change the 'pillar' but looks like a bunch more rot around it. Rather than try to get all the 'right' sections, I'd cut out the rust and piece it in with sheet metal. Not sure what gauge that side stuff is. Panals are 20. Thats probably a little heavier. I think rockers are 16 or 18. If the rot on the floor is just in the flat area, I'd piece that as well. Spend the $ on things you cant make. And most important - closer to your goal of getting behind the wheel quicker.
Check out this thread.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=192936
Love the comparison Poisondart makes to origami.
Not sure what it takes to change the 'pillar' but looks like a bunch more rot around it. Rather than try to get all the 'right' sections, I'd cut out the rust and piece it in with sheet metal. Not sure what gauge that side stuff is. Panals are 20. Thats probably a little heavier. I think rockers are 16 or 18. If the rot on the floor is just in the flat area, I'd piece that as well. Spend the $ on things you cant make. And most important - closer to your goal of getting behind the wheel quicker.
Check out this thread.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=192936
Love the comparison Poisondart makes to origami.
I have floor boards. It will be a while before a welder gets started. I need to get few more parts.
74DartSwinger360
The Brat Pack
Cant wait for some more progress on this cliff.
Hopin to get patches for mine welded in soon. Seems mine will be easier to replace entire drivers side floor pan rather than patch it
Hopin to get patches for mine welded in soon. Seems mine will be easier to replace entire drivers side floor pan rather than patch it
You are making more progress than I am so far this year, so don't let me get you off track...but just a thought
I had been following your posts on getting things wired up for the welder. Not to get you off your plans for doing your wiring correct. I have the same one and did run a dedicated 20amp circuit. But.. that welder will function just fine on a 15 amp circuit and a 14 gauge extension in all but the highest range. For welding sheet metal you will be on the low end of the settings and probably never pull more than 5-7A. (You will be blowing holes before you would pop the breaker.) I never ran mine without gas, but it should have come with a roll of flux wire. I know some guys do everything with it. If nothing else, it would get you started and maybe take care of some of the stuff that won't be seen. Anyway, just thinkin out loud. Have fun
I had been following your posts on getting things wired up for the welder. Not to get you off your plans for doing your wiring correct. I have the same one and did run a dedicated 20amp circuit. But.. that welder will function just fine on a 15 amp circuit and a 14 gauge extension in all but the highest range. For welding sheet metal you will be on the low end of the settings and probably never pull more than 5-7A. (You will be blowing holes before you would pop the breaker.) I never ran mine without gas, but it should have come with a roll of flux wire. I know some guys do everything with it. If nothing else, it would get you started and maybe take care of some of the stuff that won't be seen. Anyway, just thinkin out loud. Have fun
Right now I don't have a dedicated circuit yet things is slow. But taking apart and making sure of all the rust issues and what needs to be repaired.
Bulldozer
free ice cream sandwiches
Damn. you are going to have to cut until you get into some solid metal to weld on to. that's a really bad spot to be rotted. I would skip the "pillar" or door jam and just fab pieces to fix whats there, unless you can just replace the rocker while you're at it .you are going to need something solid to weld the floor pan to. the best thing would be to just have the whole car blasted down to bare metal and go from there.
Yeah the rockers are rotten. :banghead:
waggin
moving on ain't easy if you drive a Ford :p
Keep up the good work cliff, you can cut out the rust and make singular patches and weld and grind em till they look and work right.....IT's JUST METAL
Thanks Curtis but this will be hard to do. My skill level is not that good. The A pillar will need replaced along with the outer rocker. I have a feeling the inner rocker is rotted.
MoparDemon
Well-Known Member
Looking good Cliff, glad to see you gettin er done ;)
Here is a few more pictures except for the floor.It seams the inner rocker and frame rail seems solid
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