Head Lights

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1974 dart

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I am wanting to put different headlights in my 1974 dart, I want the kind where I can change the bulb but I also want to be able to put HID's in. Anyone know the best place I can find some like this?? Thanks
 
Changing the modern type bulb wont be any easier. The back of the headlight house is in the front of the wheel house. Good luck
 
NAPA has these for about 40 bucks a side. Part number LIT 27012 and uses a 9003 bulb
 
The 3 prong connection on the bulbs is pretty much industry standard so any will plug right into you existing wiring. Since these modern bulbs draw much more current than OEM sealed beams, don't be surprised if the lights go off and back on intermittently. There isn't a fuse. The only circuit protection is a heat sensitive interrupt built into your headlight switch. Eventually the switch, the harness connection on it or both will melt down.
In some cases they've melted together to the point a new harness part was required.
All of this is why rewiring and adding relays is recommended.
 
RedFish said:
The 3 prong connection on the bulbs is pretty much industry standard so any will plug right into you existing wiring. Since these modern bulbs draw much more current than OEM sealed beams, don't be surprised if the lights go off and back on intermittently. There isn't a fuse. The only circuit protection is a heat sensitive interrupt built into your headlight switch. Eventually the switch, the harness connection on it or both will melt down.
In some cases they've melted together to the point a new harness part was required.
All of this is why rewiring and adding relays is recommended.
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All of the wiring as well as the switches are new and I have not had any issues and I have almost 2000 miles since may now not all at night I realize but a lot going to cruise in nights in the local area. The 9003 bulb is rated at 4.3 amps The h6024 old stlye bulb is rated at 3.2 amps so this should not cause any issues unless your wiring is in poor shape.
 
I ordered a set of projector headlights with HID's for my car, I'm just asking because all the HID sets I have seen on other cars only have 2 wires coming from there harness and plugging into the HID kit. The kit I ordered said it was for my car but I was just wondering what all 3 wires are for?? I'm sure one is ground and the other is power, but what is the other?
 
Sir Thomas said:
All of the wiring as well as the switches are new and I have not had any issues and I have almost 2000 miles since may now not all at night I realize but a lot going to cruise in nights in the local area. The 9003 bulb is rated at 4.3 amps The h6024 old stlye bulb is rated at 3.2 amps so this should not cause any issues unless your wiring is in poor shape.
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That's why I said "recommended" and not "must". Nobody knows their headlight switch is overheating until their lights go off.
These switches failed with stock bulbs too. It happened to me years ago so I can testify its quite a shock if you're on dark rural roads about 12 miles from home.
Good luck to all.
 
RedFish said:
That's why I said "recommended" and not "must". Nobody knows their headlight switch is overheating until their lights go off.
These switches failed with stock bulbs too. It happened to me years ago so I can testify its quite a shock if you're on dark rural roads about 12 miles from home.
Good luck to all.
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What did you do to fix this problem?
 
1974 dart said:
I ordered a set of projector headlights with HID's for my car, I'm just asking because all the HID sets I have seen on other cars only have 2 wires coming from there harness and plugging into the HID kit. The kit I ordered said it was for my car but I was just wondering what all 3 wires are for?? I'm sure one is ground and the other is power, but what is the other?
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a sigle high beam or low beam bulb will have only 2, hot and ground. Dual function high and low beam bulbs require 3 wires, high beam , low beam, and ground.
 
1974 dart said:
What did you do to fix this problem?
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I cut the harness connectors melted plastic away from the switch with a pocket knife and installed a new switch.
This happened back in about 1988. OEM switch with halogen bulbs.
I'm not a lighting expert like SlantedDan so I'll just assume a "H" halogen bulb uses more current than whatever the 67 model OEM was.
 
GE Nighthawk's with Relays. <$100, and illuminate better than many modern cars, and FAR superior to stock. HID's (had them OEM on my 08 vette) are definitely better, but $$$!
 
jimmyray said:
GE Nighthawk's with Relays. <$100, and illuminate better than many modern cars, and FAR superior to stock. HID's (had them OEM on my 08 vette) are definitely better, but $$$!
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Acordding to the GE website the amp flow is about the same as the high quality 9003 bulb so I dont see why we need a relay. To use the night hawk bulb you still need a housing to mount in and the quality of the housing and the reflectors has more to do then the bulbs. See the attached Consumer Reports test and findings from this year. I have this posted in my showroom so my customers can be informed before they spend extra money on bulbs and then are disappointed in the results. Not trying to pick a fight I am just posting others findings.


Halogen headlight bulbs

Higher-priced lights shine more brightly but not farther

Consumer Reports magazine: January 2013




CR012K13-Cars-Intro-Headlight_Bulbs.jpg


A website touting the Sylvania SilverStar headlight bulb says it provides &#8220;up to 30 percent&#8221; greater visibility down the road. That sounds impressive until you read the fine print: &#8220;compared with worn standard halogen&#8221; bulbs. Still, such claims are making premium-priced halogen bulbs an alluring choice for drivers.
To see how those premium bulbs stack up against one another, we put eight of them, costing $20 to $80, through a range of tests in our labs and at our test track. We tested the low-beam performance of single-filament (9003) and dual-filament (H7) bulbs from GE, Hella, Philips, and Sylvania, and PIAA&#8217;s dual-filament bulb. We also compared their performance with that of two standard bulbs from GE and Helio, costing $20 and $10, respectively, and to the original-equipment (OE) bulbs that came in our 2012 Hyundai Accent and Volkswagen Passat test cars.
We found that the premium bulbs, as a group, deliver a whiter light and up to 19 percent more output than the standard or OE bulbs, and that can be more pleasing for drivers. But none of the premium bulbs allowed us to see farther on our headlight test course than the standard or OE bulbs. That&#8217;s because distance is determined more by the size and shape of the lamp&#8217;s reflector or lens than by the bulb. We also found little difference in light output among the premium bulbs; no more than the differences normally experienced from power fluctuations while driving.
Bottom line. Premium bulbs might be a good choice if you prefer a more intense or whiter light, but don&#8217;t expect big changes in the distance you can see compared with standard or new OE bulbs. For the premium bulbs we tested, shop by price.
The illumination of any bulb fades with time, so we suggest replacing your bulbs every few years, not waiting until one burns out. We don&#8217;t advise mixing premium and standard bulbs. Output can also decrease if lamp lenses become hazy or dirty. Have them cleaned by a professional or do it yourself with a product such as the Sylvania Headlight Restoration Kit, which costs about $20. Check out our buying guide to headlight-restoration kits for more information.






CR012K13-HR-GE-Nighthawk-0005.jpg


What we tested
Headlights appear in alphabetical order (performance among bulbs was similar).
Product
Bulb type
Price
GE Nighthawk
9003/H7
$25
GE Nighthawk Platinum
9003/H7
40
Hella
9003/H7
35
Philips CrystalVision Ultra
9003/H7
25
Philips VisionPlus
9003/H7
20
PIAA Xtreme White Plus
H7
80
Sylvania SilverStar
9003/H7
30
Sylvania SilverStar Ultra
9003/H7
40
 
Im installing the napa lights I just did the 30 amp relay update, but Im waiting on a ceramic plug to come in which should take care of the plug. Right?
 
tekslk said:
Im installing the napa lights I just did the 30 amp relay update, but Im waiting on a ceramic plug to come in which should take care of the plug. Right?
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Should, ceramic connectors behind the bulbs is something that I didn't do.
 
Sir Thomas said:
Acordding to the GE website the amp flow is about the same as the high quality 9003 bulb so I dont see why we need a relay.
40
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All Mopar headlights should be converted to relays because they were borderline right from the factory. 45 years of bulkhead connector/ dimmer switch/ headlight switch/ other connections corroding hasn't made things any better. Besides, they weren't originally 9003s, they were 4000/ 4001, which draw even less
 
67Dart273 said:
All Mopar headlights should be converted to relays because they were borderline right from the factory. 45 years of bulkhead connector/ dimmer switch/ headlight switch/ other connections corroding hasn't made things any better. Besides, they weren't originally 9003s, they were 4000/ 4001, which draw even less
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4000/4001 are rated at 3.2 amp draw. 9003 are rated at 4.3
 
Just a side note, while your car is running and headlights are on check the voltage at the bulb connector. The voltage drop is about 2++ volts on average. The relays with a larger feed (#12 or #14) will get 13.8 volts to the bulb and a much brighter headlight. This and a new bulb and I think you'll be happy with the lighting system.
 
Robbie2734 said:
Just a side note, while your car is running and headlights are on check the voltage at the bulb connector. The voltage drop is about 2++ volts on average. The relays with a larger feed (#12 or #14) will get 13.8 volts to the bulb and a much brighter headlight. This and a new bulb and I think you'll be happy with the lighting system.
Click to expand...

If i have 12.8 at the battery (car off) then I better have 12.5 - 12.6 at the head lamp or I have a issue that needs to be fixed in the circuit. switchs and wiring should not have a 2 volt drop or i would have about 6 ohms resistance in the circuit and that is what causes issues. Relays are mostly used to allow a low amp circuit control a high amp circuit. Again not trying to pick a fight just pointing basic laws of electricity.
 
Sir Thomas said:
If i have 12.8 at the battery (car off) then I better have 12.5 - 12.6 at the head lamp or I have a issue that needs to be fixed in the circuit. switchs and wiring should not have a 2 volt drop or i would have about 6 ohms resistance in the circuit and that is what causes issues. Relays are mostly used to allow a low amp circuit control a high amp circuit. Again not trying to pick a fight just pointing basic laws of electricity.
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You are just not getting it. There has been tons written on this subject. Mopar factory wiring is UNDERSIZED and INADEQUATE to start with, as I said above. "Wishing" this not to be so or theorizing it's not will not change reality.

Old Mopars Need Relays and really, they needed them from the day they left the factory. The instant sealed beam halogens came out years ago, matters got worse.

Sir Thomas said:
4000/4001 are rated at 3.2 amp draw. 9003 are rated at 4.3
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And you helped prove my point. Thank you.
 
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