Help me dignose please.

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ragtop

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Hi guys
Trying to get ragtop going again.
Problem started last summer and has sat since.
Problem is grey smoke when warmed up.
Replaced the carb with a nos one and smoked just the same.
Oil has a gas smell to it so changed that and still smokes.
Did a compression test today and here's the results.

#1=111
#2=110
#3=121
#4=114
#5=130
#6=119

Time for a new motor ?
 
Help me dignose please.

pick_nose.jpg


I think that's probably blue smoke, plus you've got a decent variation of compression going on there. I'd say probably a rebuild or a re-ring is needed......but do a wet/dry compression test to see if it's valves.
 
Thanks and nice pic.
I'll do a wet test and see it the #'s change.
 
Wet test with a couple squirts in the clylinder.
#1 11 dry 121 wet
#2 100 dry and wet no change.
#4 114 dry went up to a whopping 160 wet, maybe squirted to much oil in there ?

Didn't test the others yet.
 
The compression is not the problem. Grey/black smoke is usually fuel. Just because you replaced the carburetor with an "NOS" one doesn't mean you got a "GOOD" one. Have you made sure the choke is releasing properly?
 
Loosing any water ? Steam is white smoke of course but it can be grey or blue gray at first since its flushing the exhaust manifolds.
 
The compression is not the problem. Grey/black smoke is usually fuel. Just because you replaced the carburetor with an "NOS" one doesn't mean you got a "GOOD" one. Have you made sure the choke is releasing properly?

I put new seals in the nos carb and set the float level before installing.
I'm no carb expert so I could have missed something.
Plugs had a little black silt on them from running rich I would guess.
The idle is high when starts and drops when warm so I'm guessing the choke is operating properly ?
Also adjusted the air/fuel mixture screw in until it started to run rough,then backed it out until smooth. I have a new fuel pump to install but put it off until I get a new fuel line since the old one @ the pump looks brittle.
Do I just look down the carb when its warm to see if the choke is fully opened when its warm ?
 
Loosing any water ? Steam is white smoke of course but it can be grey or blue gray at first since its flushing the exhaust manifolds.

Just out the water pump seal... Just started leaking,I have a new one in the trunk ready to go in.
Smoke color is hard to determine but it does smell rich.
 
Compression test is not always definitive for a leak, either. Does it overheat? Any evidence of bubbles in the radiator? There is a chemical test for head gasket leaks. Sometimes a tiny leak won't show up cold, either.

Run it awhile, on the road if possible, get it out and up to temp, then let it sit and then look at the plugs. The cylinder(s) that have a water leak (if any) will look "different," wet and grey.
 
Compression test is not always definitive for a leak, either. Does it overheat? Any evidence of bubbles in the radiator? There is a chemical test for head gasket leaks. Sometimes a tiny leak won't show up cold, either.

Run it awhile, on the road if possible, get it out and up to temp, then let it sit and then look at the plugs. The cylinder(s) that have a water leak (if any) will look "different," wet and grey.

Warmed it up for 30 minutes and nothing changes.
According to my high tech 1964 gauge it doesn't overheat.
Rebuilt the front end so she's not roadworthy until I get the alignment closer to spec to get in the shop.
All the plugs looked the same which was black,some with a bit of silt on them.
I don't think it's the head gasket but I could be wrong.
 
Video of the dart running.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTxh37Ogd4A&feature=youtu.be[/ame]
 
Its blue. could be valve guide seals or valves a little to tight. Worse case oil rings . Get a can of engine restore at auto zone . I used it in my old 53 chevy and it stopped the smoke from the rings.
 
That's really a bitchin' car. I'd run the valves, give it a full tune-up and try some thicker oil......and try to keep the RPM's down.

Maybe you could try some rubber umbrella seals on the valve stems.
 
Since you are not driving the car just starting in driveway I think the condensation in the muffler and exhaust system. You really need to drive car and let it warm up then step on it and let it clean out a little. You didn't say it runs bad just smokes right. How old is the oil? The oil may smell of fuel from sitting and carb may be rich choke stuck. What does the oil look like milky or diluted?
 
Its blue. could be valve guide seals or valves a little to tight. Worse case oil rings . Get a can of engine restore at auto zone . I used it in my old 53 chevy and it sopped the smoke from the rings.

This^^^^^ Restore comes in a chrome can. It comes in 4, 6 and 8 cylinder sizes. You will need to put a can in at each oil change. I am not a proponent of oil additives, but that's one that really works.

I agree 100% with Oldmanmopar. It looks blue and that's oil. Since it blows smoke hard when you goose it, the rings are probably sticky or worn. Running it may clear it up.
 
O.k Thanks guys.
I have a game plan now.
Upper a arms are @ the shop getting moog offset bushings and new ball joints and that will complete the suspension for now.
Going to install the new water pump,new hoses,fuel pump and fuel line/filter and add restore to the oil which I changed recently.
Might also re check the valves,I adjusted them a few years back while the car was running and could have overtightened them.
When finished take her on the freeway and clean her out.
Hopefully the smog nazies wont be writing down my plate # to report me.
Gotta love calif.

Thanks for the help I was in need of motivation.
 
The choke plate is at the top of the carb, no need to look down the bore and risk singeing your face.

Your engine must be great the way it fires up like that. However, I would never rev a cold engine like in your video. In my wife's country of Indonesia, they start a cold engine, rev it up to 5000 rpm cold, then race up and down the street to "warm it up". Probably trying to make the gods happy. Makes me cringe just imagining the damage (spun bearings). At least they are on the equator and not in the frozen north.

I also suspect oil getting into the intake. The typical symptom is blue smoke after idling a long time at a stop light, since that is max vacuum which sucks oil past the guides. My 82 Aries was an absolute mosquito fogger after sitting at a certain long stop light which faced uphill. Turned out I had installed the plastic PCV box onto the valve cover wrong and it got oil drops into the PCV snorkel, as they slung upward off the camshaft. I pointed the snorkel down, which seemed intuitive, but was wrong. I finally noticed the slot in the snorkel elbow and thought "ah hah, a drain slot". The snorkel was supposed to point up to capture air from the top of the cover. Later read about that in a book. Check your PCV valve. Some aftermarket valve covers don't have a baffle to stop oil from getting to the PCV (can't tell what you have from the video).

Worst-case, it is the valve stem seals, but you can change those with the engine in the car, but a little tricky, so read up. There used to be a fix-it kit with umbrella seals and glue that didn't require removing the springs (just unbolt rocker shaft). My dad used that to fix my sister's 65 Mustang six cyl long ago.
 
when was the last time the valves were adjusted?
I would warm the car up-- adjust the valves running (slantsix.org has the procedure posted)--- then take it for a spin to blow the cobs out of it.. once this is done I would then start tweaking the carb mixtures & such.

Very nice looking ride!!

Lawrence
 
Bill
I checked the choke plate and it is fully opened when warm.
Not sure what you mean on the pcv valve are you talking about the plug the pcv valve goes into ?

Vdart
I adjusted the valves via the running method a few years ago and it hasn't been driven much since.
Once I get the control arms back from the shop I'll take it for a spin and get the cobwebs out.
This weekend I was enthused and installed the following and it smokes a little less.
Water pump/thermostat,radiator fluid replaced, new fan belt.
New fuel pump/filter and hoses, new ngk v power plugs and lastly restore engine treatment to the oil.
I think she liked the attention and runs even smoother.
Also considering 5.9l magnum conversion in her future.
I like the idea of having a stock looking car with a muscle car rumble
 
springs age even when sitting--listening to the idle from your video -- it sounded louder than expected-- hence the valve adjustment. Lawrence
 
The compression is low and the fact oil didn't help on all of the holes tells me it's a mix of rings and valves. I'd plan a rebuild or replacement - that Restore crap works - I've used it on several cars I've had over the years. But it's not a permanent fix and it can also cause problems with oil delivery.
 
springs age even when sitting--listening to the idle from your video -- it sounded louder than expected-- hence the valve adjustment. Lawrence

Your right, it does have a clatter at idle but goes away when revved.
Will check the valve clearance soon.

The compression is low and the fact oil didn't help on all of the holes tells me it's a mix of rings and valves. I'd plan a rebuild or replacement - that Restore crap works - I've used it on several cars I've had over the years. But it's not a permanent fix and it can also cause problems with oil delivery.

Added restore to see what happens.
I just want the motor to last a bit longer until I can put together a replacement.
 
Just an update and a Thanks to everyone for the help.
Drove her around a bit today and there is no smoke at all.
Not sure if it was from sitting 2 yrs,bad gas or the can of restore just plain worked.
Scheduling an alignment next week.
 
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