help needed with 904

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Oh yeah, was given a gasket/filter kit so I would like to take a look at the valve body and see if there is the kind of shift kit is or isn't in it?? Maybe when I take it out I could take and post some pictures.
 
Getting closer to transmission time and think- I haven't ever put a torque converter on an automatic? I assume I just slip it on ? Do I need to put oil in it? It's been sitting new in the box for 6 years. What kinda (reassembly priced) fluid? Thank you as always....
 
j par said:
Getting closer to transmission time and think- I haven't ever put a torque converter on an automatic? I assume I just slip it on ? Do I need to put oil in it? It's been sitting new in the box for 6 years. What kinda (reassembly priced) fluid? Thank you as always....
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VERY IMPORTANT!!! Easy, but important! when you install your TC, slide it in, then pull it out about 1/8 inch and turn it slightly and push back in until it goes all the way in. There will be about an inch or so between the teeth of the TC and the edge of the bell housing of the tranny. If this isn't seated all the way, you'll break the pump when you tighten the tranny to the block.
 
the torque converter must engage the pump...it should slide all the way back into the bellhousing....once it is installed...turning the converter back n forth you should here a clack clack noise...that is the snout of the converter hitting the pump tangs ,,,,then you know it is installed....
 
Their is an easy way. Look in the pump u will see the drive lugs. Using a long thin screw driver turn the lugs to 6 and 12 o'clock position. That enters the lugs anywhere else the lugs are over to the side as they move kinda on an ecentric so to speak. Kim
 
I always put a couple of qts in the TC, and install it with the pan in it's normal orientation. Once you have done it successfully a few times you know what to watch for, namely that that the TC ends up below the face of the TC housing. When the tranny is finally bolted up, the TC should have to be pulled up to the flexplate to marry them.
 
Come on over..I am working on two 904s ....got one buttoned up this morning...awaiting on one part for the second ...actually I dont need that part to button it up ...changing the front servo lever ratio....

after you set the pump back in...make sure you can turn the input shaft and the output shaft moves too...no binding..
 
I'm not getting notifications. I didn't know anyone had answered this thread! I should be digging into the transmission within a week or so. Should start right at the very beginning- I have the flex plate from the 360- is it different from 318? Thank you

70aarcuda said:
Come on over..I am working on two 904s ....got one buttoned up this morning...awaiting on one part for the second ...actually I dont need that part to button it up ...changing the front servo lever ratio....

after you set the pump back in...make sure you can turn the input shaft and the output shaft moves too...no binding..
Click to expand...
 
j par said:
I'm not getting notifications. I didn't know anyone had answered this thread! I should be digging into the transmission within a week or so. Should start right at the very beginning- I have the flex plate from the 360- is it different from 318? Thank you
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nope. But if you want to use a neutral balanced converter with a 360, have the flex plate balanced. I know, you are using the 318, just mentioning it
 
It looks as if one of the four converter holes in the flex plate is off a little bit?
 
That is by design, keep turning it. You only have three other choices.
If the engine and tranny are both out, measure the flexplate and find the one short span between holes, and mark the bad hole. repeat on the TC, and mark it. Turn the crank so that the mark is at either the 4:30 position or the 7:30 position. That is to say the marked hole ends up on either side of the pan. Rotate the TC to match.
If the tranny is to be installed after the engine is in,make sure you can see the marks from the floorside.
If the engine and tranny are already in the car and mated;
The easy way; is to orient the crank so that two flex-plate ears are are accessible. Then rotate the TC until those bottom two lugs line up.Then run one bolt in finger tight. Rotate the crank to find a third screwhole. If it lines up then spin 'em all in, you lucked in. If the third hole does not line up, back the crank up to the starting position. Remove the one bolt and rotate the convertor to the the next lug.
If those bottom two line up,put a bolt in and repeat the test.
If they don't, rotate the TC back to where you started, but continue one lug in the same direction.Install a bolt, and look for the third to line up again.
If you do this right, you will never have to turn the crank more than about 1/4 turn, and worst case is twice.
 
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Once you get it all lined up..paint one of the flexplate ears with the tc lugs....need time just line up the paint dots...
 
I think I'll have the luxury of mating them outside of the car.

AJ/FormS said:
That is by design, keep turning it. You only have three other choices.
If the engine and tranny are both out, measure the flexplate and find the one short span between holes, and mark the bad hole. repeat on the TC, and mark it. Turn the crank so that the mark is at either the 4:30 position or the 7:30 position. That is to say the marked hole ends up on either side of the pan. Rotate the TC to match.
If the tranny is to be installed after the engine is in,make sure you can see the marks from the floorside.
If the engine and tranny are already in the car and mated;
The easy way; is to orient the crank so that two flex-plate ears are are accessible. Then rotate the TC until those bottom two lugs line up.Then run one bolt in finger tight. Rotate the crank to find a third screwhole. If it lines up then spin 'em all in, you lucked in. If the third hole does not line up, back the crank up to the starting position. Remove the one bolt and rotate the convertor to the the next lug.
If those bottom two line up,put a bolt in and repeat the test.
If they don't, rotate the TC back to where you started, but continue one lug in the same direction.Install a bolt, and look for the third to line up again.
If you do this right, you will never have to turn the crank more than about 1/4 turn, and worst case is twice.
Click to expand...
 
I would like to have the transmission on it's own enclosed cooling system. I'm not sure how much heat exchange I need? I was thinking a small radiator with it's own little fan? Is this an outlandish idea?
 
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j par said:
I would like to have the transmission on it's own enclosed cooling system. I'm not sure how much heat exchange I need? I was thinking a small radiator with it's own little fan? Is this an outlandish idea?
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Up here I have run the outlet straight to the inlet for months atta time,and several years in a row.The tranny is still working fine. At the extremes of temp like winter, it might not like that. Or on hot summer days. But this was behind a 73 stock teener with a 2800TC, and just bolt-ons/no cam.
IMO a stand-alone may be fine. If you put the cooler in the airstream a fan shouldn't be required. The tranny is only working when the car is moving. In neutral/and more so in Park; it will take a really long time to bring the oil-temp up.I think that is part of the reason the cooler is in the rad;to help bring the heat UP in the morning.
If you are worried about heat, you can always put a gauge on it.
 
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Yes, I was thinking temp gage.

AJ/FormS said:
Up here I have run the outlet straight to the inlet for months atta time,and several years in a row.The tranny is still working fine. At the extremes of temp like winter, it might not like that. Or on hot summer days. But this was behind a 73 stock teener with a 2800TC, and just bolt-ons/no cam.
IMO a stand-alone may be fine. If you put the cooler in the airstream a fan shouldn't be required. The tranny is only working when the car is moving. In neutral/and more so in Park; it will take a really long time to bring the oil-temp up.I think that is part of the reason the cooler is in the rad;to help bring the heat UP in the morning.
If you are worried about heat, you can always put a gauge on it.
Click to expand...
 
Ooookey, I finally got the motor to a point that I could get it off the stand and get the transmission on. The cooling line holes are plugged and so is the dipstick tube hole. I have a gasket for it and screen. I think I'll start with a light cleaning? Roll it upside-down open it up and take a looksy. Problem is I don't know what I'm looking at ...LOL
 
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Remember I have this was the transmission I got with the 318 and I have the new torque converter with it. I do have the transmission that came with the $50 360 and it has some extra stuff on it like the tube another little parts that I might possibly need and it to could possibly be here running transmission. but I do want to look inside this one to see if it has a shift kit already and stuff like that so I'll have to take pictures and post some of the inside
20170423_165352.jpg
20170423_165329.jpg
 
No objections so far? Ok then I'll flip her over and open her up...
wait a minute, that may not have sounded right ?
 
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