Help! Wiped cam lobes? - Video inside

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Wouldn't worry about cam break-in....just use an oil that has lots of zinc in it, or one of the specialty oils available ,ie: Brad Penn, Joe Gibbs, etc, or get the zinc additive available in a bottle at the auto parts store. Lube the cam and lifters up good at install...start the engine and let it run at 2000-2500 rpm for 20 minutes or so. Drain that oil and install new zinc-rich oil and new filter, and drive.
 
nothing was smoking. Everything else seemed ok, although i'll admit I'm flying by the seat of my pants right now and I didn't have the car for long until this problem cropped. up.

Previous owner swore he and his brother re-built the whole engine about 40,000 miles ago for their mom before she got a honda and parked it. He seemed genuinely surprised when i let him know about the cam. He also had a whole shop and some completed projects if that lends him any credence.

I'll have to think about what do do. I'm considering just doing the cam and lifters and crossing my fingers. can't get much worse though. I am paranoid about killing the new cam during break in though after reading so many horror stores.

Whatever I do i'll make a write up with pictures so people can learn/laugh at my success/failure.

Cam, lifters and springs at the very LEAST. Otherwise, you may set yourself up for failure. Again.
 
lol. Its the starting part of the breakin that i'm paranoid about. damn thing is a little touchy about when it wants to start.

So if i'm going bare minimum here. people suggest Cam, Lifters, Springs? I might as well have the machine shop check out the heads while i'm in there. What else could/should I do that wouldn't necessitate removing the engine?
 
need a new battery now also....

X2 on good oil and zinc additive. Personally if it ran half decent and did t use oil, for a driver I would throw a new cam and lifters and timing chain in and go with it. I wouldn't worry about springs, but that is just me. Remember, this isnt a high performance build with an aggressive cam.....

Pulling the heads to look at the cylinder heads isn't a bad idea, but it could lead to more money spent should you decide to do the valves.
 
Good job getting it apart,..

If you pull all the plugs and "read" them,, that could be a good indicator as to whether you need to go farther than cam, lifters and chain, etc..

post pix of the plugs would be helpful..

cheers ... hope it helps
 
Alright, I guess my biggest concern now is the condition of the bottom end? ie thrashed piston rings and bearings? Here are some pictures of the spark plugs in order 1-8. What do you think? Does anyone recommend any other investigation to determine if its worth risking replacing the cam without re-building the engine? Too late to get a compression test now. getting the camera to focus on the plugs was one of the most stressful things ive done in a while.

from what I've seen on the internet. It looks like oil fouling? not a good sign i guess. They definitely look worse than when I last checked them a few months ago.
 

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What kinda plugs are those?
 
yup bosh platinum. They were in the car when i bought it. what should really be in there? I've got some other plug that I never used in another car but they are el chepo ones. autolight or something? do you think i should be concerned about the amount of fouling? Is it an indication that the bottom end is to far gone to put in a new cam/lifters?

Where in georgia are you from dirtyrat rod? I lived in marietta a few years ago. miss the BBQ but not the humidity!
 
I think the bottom end is probably ok. The plugs are fuel fouled. Too rich. That's just a tuning problem. I would run whatever regular Champion copper plug the book says for the engine. Compression ratio and cylinder pressure are all that's really important determining which plug to run in these older engines with iron heads. Don't get too carried away on plug choice, because there's simply not much difference at all any plug will make over another.

For like the third time now re-cam the darn thing. Cam, lifters, springs and new timing set. Make sure you break it in right. I think the Summit 6900 cam is a good choice. Simple, cost effective and it will work. Comp 901 springs will be perfect. Again, simple and cost effective. Use a Cloyes double roller timing set and degree the cam either 4 or 6 degrees advanced......if you want a little more extra bottom end torque, go 6 degrees. Won't hurt a thing. It will be a peppy little 318 when you are done. Change the oil to the Lucas Hot Rod oil. It has plenty of zinc for the flat tappet cam. Use 10/30. No need for anything fancy like synthetic. Don't waste your money. Make sure you slob liberal amounts of cam break in lube on the lobes and lifters. When you bust it off, keep it above 2500 RPM for the first 15 minutes, varying the RPM from 2500 to 4500. Do NOT let it fall below 2500 or idle for the first 15 minutes. Remember to vary the RPM as this helps splash lube at break in. If you get past the first 15 minutes without trouble, you will be fine.

That cam is small enough that it does not require an adjustable valve train and large enough that you WILL notice a nice difference in how the engine performs.

If you really wanted to get into it, you could remove the heads and have them done. They ARE where the power is and if they are worn and need guide and valve work, you will never have the power you potentially could with some reworked heads. If the budget allows, I would do it. You have the intake off so you are really half way there. Just something to think about.

Oh and I am about 20 miles NE of Macon. Thank God.



yup bosh platinum. They were in the car when i bought it. what should really be in there? I've got some other plug that I never used in another car but they are el chepo ones. autolight or something? do you think i should be concerned about the amount of fouling? Is it an indication that the bottom end is to far gone to put in a new cam/lifters?

Where in georgia are you from dirtyrat rod? I lived in marietta a few years ago. miss the BBQ but not the humidity!
 
Alright. Thanks to everyone for their solid advice and encouragement! I appreciate it. I'm going to try and get this all done over the weekend. Here is a list of what I'm planning on ordering and a few more questions. Please let me know if you have any further suggestion.

Summit K6900 Camshaft and lifters
Cloyes double roller timing chain
Comp 901-16 valve springs
valve cover/intake/timing cover gaskets
lucas hot rod oil
cam lube
coolant

Questions:
I should be able to re-use the pushrods as long as they roll smoothly across a flat surface correct?
Is the lucas hot rod oil good enough for the cam break-in period? or do i still need an additive?
I don't have a tachometer for maintaining engine speed during the break-in period. Is this something that I should install before the final startup?
 
As long as your pushrods are straight, reuse them
The lucas oil along with cam lube on install is fine
You won't need a tach as long as you have a feel or idea what 2-2.5 K rpm is.
 
Well I finally got everything apart. Kind of a pain in the but but most of the bolts broke free with very little hassle so that was nice. I lubed up the new cam and got it in but that's about as far as I've gotten. Now I've got to do the timing chain, clean the mating surfaces and get everything back together. Does anyone have any helpful tips about the re-construction phase? I've been using a razor scraper and acitone, but whoever put this engine together last time really loved RTV.

Also, there's some old burnt gasket where I think it blocked a water passage. Is that something that I should cut out? When I put the new gasket on is there anything I need to do about it? (See photo)

When i finally got the cam out the #6 exhaust lobe was quite flat as you can see in the picture and the lifter was very concave. I found another lifter that had more of a channel that was starting to get carved out. presumably that one stopped spinning and got eaten while the #6 lifter was spinning while it ate itself. Additionally, many lifters were collapsed.
 

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That is carbon build up on the head. Needs to be cleaned out. That heats the carb when its cold to help with cold weather drivability. It is an exhaust port. MT
 
Wow, that lobe and lifter are reeeally bad. The collapsed lifters explains the loose pushrods/rockers in post #1.

BTW, when you say you lubed up the cam, is that just oil or what? There should be some cam lube in a packet that comes with the cam or you can get separately. I would suggest the black moly based cam lube; smear it all over the lobes through the lifter bores (easy to do BEFORE the timing chain is on) and then on the bottoms of the lifters. Oil the bejesus out of everything else that moves.

Glad you are making progress.
 
In looking at your plugs, IMO, the problem is running rich. If it was oil, the residue would shine in places as would the exhaust cross-over. I can't see any shine.

My suggestion? Fix the obvious (the cam) first, then tackle the mixture issue. You're doing fine. Stay after it.
 
Tips:

1. Make sure every last shred of gasket material is removed and the surfaces clean. Don't use a whizzer wheel to clean the surfaces. The abrasive gets in the engine and blows it up.

2. Once you are done scraping and cleaning, but before installing the cam and lifters, pull the drain plug and rinse the engine with a couple gallons of kerosene or gas(BE CAREFUL)

3. Assembly lube on the cam lobes and oil the timing chain.

4. Finally, do not...do NOT put things back together with an entire tube of orange glue like you see already. That is the hallmark of a HACK mechanic. Why use gaskets if you are going to apply glue to every single surface?

Good luck.
 
That is carbon build up on the head. Needs to be cleaned out. That heats the carb when its cold to help with cold weather drivability. It is an exhaust port. MT


I would leave the carbon in the port, I tried to clean one one time with no luck.
Even tried to run a drill bit into it, that carbon is like cement.
 
GM dealerships used to sell a carbon breakdown chemical, works gangbusters. Might check Justice Brothers & Werth supplies ,as well.
 
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