Help with smoking

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1972orangebeast

1972orangebeast

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I installed new heads on my 360 motor and I have some blueish smoke coming from my exhaust, which I know is burning oil. Give you some background, i changed out heads because i was using a qt of oil a tank of gas. I talked to the guy who built the motor and he said that the heads probably needed valve guides because I have had the heads for a while on some other motors. Only the drivers side would smoke some times, amd the exhaust is coated on the inside with oil too, you put your finger in the tail pipe amd it's covered. It didnt smoke on start up so i figured it wasnt valve seals. My bottom end was completely new, pistons were slightly used, everything else new rings bearings etc. Now the other day I bought new replacement heads from aero. I will say when I pulled the old heads off I forgot to drain block so I got some antifreeze in the cylinders but I shop vac it out, blew air in the cylinders and wiped out the antifreeze and then put some oil on a rag and wiped inside of cylinders down lightly. Is it possible I messed up or cause rings to go bad by doing this? I put new heads on and started smoking a bluefish smoke. I drove it around and ran about half a tank of gas out prob 45 mins or little longer. Plugs look ok, before a couple of them were covered in oil and now both pipes are smoking vs before only drivers side did.

Any help or advice please. Will it take some time to burn off the oil I wiped in the cylinders?
 
If you drove it around that long it would have cleared up. Possible it is sucking oil on the intake area causing both sides to now smoke.
 
Niccoret Gum, helped my smoking problem!:burnout:MT
 
Gavin, Do you think that the intake gasket seal is ok? The heads (or your intake) were never angle milled were they?
 
How do you know that your problem was in the valves?

Did you do any testing to prove the problem with measurable numbers, or are you just to changing parts until you finally get lucky?

Wet and dry compression test, and then do a leak down test.

Get some numbers and then fix the real problem. Stop guessing.
 
Hey, I was going to preach that.
OK, you caught me snoozing.
So Ill throw this in; If you can burn a half a tank of gas in 45 minutes, there is something seriously wrong.
Thats like 7 or 8 gallons.
Lets say you averaged 45mph. That would be 34miles.
34 miles per7gallons, would be, wait for it, 4.85 mpg.
Thats 4.85 mpg. If your engine is really pushing that much fuel through, no wonder it smokes.
But lets say you drove 1 hour and averaged 50mph, and only used 5 gallons. That would work out to; here it comes; 10mpg. Still excessive, unless you were ........stomping it,stomping it,stomping it, and more stomping it. Oh wait, thats my style.
Just checking my clutch hub,sir.No hurry sir. No sir, I dont always drive like that. No sir, I dont know why. Yes sir, I know Im not a kid anymore. Yes sir, you are right, I should know better.Yes sir, I do know that you could charge me with those offences. Youre what? Youre goning to let me off with a warning? Well thank you sir. Yes sir I will sir. You have a nice day too......
( Awman, whats that taste in my mouth?)
 
AJ/FormS said:
Hey, I was going to preach that.
OK, you caught me snoozing.
So Ill through this in; If you can burn a half a tank of gas in 45 minutes, there is something seriously wrong.
Thats like 7 or 8 gallons.
Lets say you averaged 45mph. That would be 34miles.
34 miles per7gallons, would be, wait for it, 4.85 mpg.
Thats 4.85 mpg. If your engine is really pushing that much fuel through, no wonder it smokes.
But lets say you drove 1 hour and averaged 50mph, and only used 5 gallons. That would work out to; here it comes; 10mpg. Still excessive, unless you were ........
Click to expand...


So if he fills the tank and heads west into a 20 mph wind, how far can he go when he will finally run out of gas??? LOL! :D
 
No really , if there was that much oil in the tail pipes it might still be burning out?
 
The wind never blows from the west. Or,does it?lol
But even if it did,as long as theres a gas station every 12 gallons or so, he could run out of road before running out of gas.lol
And double besides, a 20 mph wind, a Mopar360 doesnt even recognize.double lol.

But if he was limited to just the first tank,And had a really good tune in it, and had a double O/D, and cruised at 65 or less, with all the windows up, I know a guy that once got nearly 600 miles on that little tankful ,of 87E10.That would be 33 mpg at 1600 or so rpm.
 
This happened to me a couple years ago, turned out to be I ran a double valve spring, and I needed a spring retainer to keep springs from eating up the seals. When we finally got it it took a while to burn all the oil out of the tail pipes.
 
To answer some questions I decided on heads because if it is rings my motor builder is going to eat it one way or another. Untill I fixed heads he would of blamed it on something else.

The heads came with springs that would take up to .500 lift, my cam is a comp .484, could this still cause an issue though?

At worst I will pull intake just incase maybe I messed up intake gasket, i used an edelbrock set 7370 set and put light black rtv around each por too.

The weird thing is the drivers side did not smoke this bad before, before at idle it might here and there, and from people driving behind me they said would puff sometimes when I shifted gears but that was it. Now from cold start to after 50 miles and an hour of driving smokes the same and is a good little cloud.

Ill pull plugs and try to adjust carb some just in case its fuel but its definitely blueish smoke. Also Ill post comp number too after I do them, I did it before and they were around 150 psi dry
 
There you go again.
You dont just pull the intake off to check for leaks.
You have got to learn to ask questions first, or at least think things through.
There is a very simple test that you can do, that will tell you if the intake is sucking oil from the valley. Very simple.Im, not gonna tell you right off, cause I want you to think on it for just a bit.
If the low speed circuit is very rich,or if the cruise-timing is insufficiently advanced, then during cruising,not all the fuel will get burned during every cycle.So again, think of some places where this extra fuel goes, and where its coming from..
Well, firstly , lets look at the plugs. After that trip,if the numbers are accurate,those plugs should be black,black,black
And who told you to put RTV around the ports? When you have an idea, you have to think it through. Or get a second opinion. Before going gung-ho.
Makes me wonder how many other ideas are in that engine!
On a good note 150 psi is a pretty good number.
So start thinking.
 
Yea I do get s little gun ho and probably because this week I'm off and start new job next and don't want to mess with this then. Anyway intakes off now, it was sucking oil bottom of gaskets were soaked with oil and the im runners too. I figured it was this for sure when I pulled carb off to make sure I wasn't over fueling it and there was oil in the bottom eeek .

So the intake kit I got came with rtv to use? Should I not do this I take it? I have a couple intake kits one basic felpro ms90109 and one performance 1213. The performance doesn't come with rtv and the basic did?

Also yes the plugs were black black black! Also I used 3/4 of a qt less than half a tank of fuel!
 
I had bad luck with aeroheads. Who'd have thought rebuilt heads needed a valve job. Never again.
 
Don't tell me that! That's honestly first thing I read really bad about them, I know customer service isn't greatest.
 
The RTV is just for the corners where the gaskets meet the end seals(at the china walls).If the block has been heavily decked,its some times better to throw away the end seals altogether, and build up those walls with RTV.
How was it cleaning the RTV off the heads, and/or the manifolds? Thats why I dont put it around the ports; too much trouble cleaning it all off. and as you have found out, if the manifold doesnt fit the heads right, it doesnt help in the sealing either.BTW, fresh silicon doesnt stick to dry silicon, so get it ALL off.

Now lets talk about why the intake wasnt sealing. Dont just put that intake back on until you figure that out. Think........

Now its my turn to think; how in the world did you figure out 3/4 of a qt less than half a tank.Id like to call BS, but knowing you, you mighta just drained the tank to measure whats left. But I suspect you went the easier route, and just refilled it.
Well since you know the exact qty of gas that trip burned, have you done the math yet as to MPG?

Now, why is the intake pulling air from the bottom?
.
 
I don't trust that RTV to seal those ports.....That might be what's UNSEALING them against the oil.
If you feel that you need sealer on the gasket I'd prefer something less slimey like Hi-Tack. Personally
I would want the actual intake gaskets clean and dry. As stated above, use a small dollop of the RTV
only to seal the corners of the intake at the block. Good luck! See you at the Nat's.
 
I have used blue RTV on intakes all the time for decades with no issues, but never more than a super, super thin skim coat. It is not used as a main sealing component, but just to fill in small irregularities and help it 'settle in'.

With unknown head machining, put the intake on the engine with no gaskets and some clay strips on the tops and bottoms of the ports and look to check the geometry to see if the intake surfaces line up evenly with the head ports all around (sounds like they probably won't), to see if something is odd with the machining of the heads and/or block.
 
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