High RPM Backfire when fully warmed

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Valve springs lose pressure due to heat cycling after running to the tune of around 7 to 9 PSI.
When you have a spring that is short on pressure, heating that spring up will make it even shorter on pressure.
I had a motor that ran pretty good until it was fully warmed up, then it kind of went flat at the top. Turned out to be the springs, too light
Do you have a link to a valve spring compressor tool that will work with magnum heads?
 
I’m think I would need to buy these type of studs to use that pedestal valve spring compressor tool, just got to figure out the thread size on the rocker bolt

I think it would be this 5/16x3/8 and I can use that compressor tool easy

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Maybe but I’ve seen a lot and rarely poop my pants. I like when guys do crazy stuff and it just works out. I was tuning (his carb not mine) a friends stroker mustang yesterday and the damn thing wouldn’t idle for the life of me. Had jetting where I wanted it, TSR where I wanted it, pcvr where I wanted it, hsab where I wanted it, and it wouldn’t freakin idle. Finially looked at the iab and some asshat previous had drilled them (I measured once I started screwing with em) to .130. Once I stuck some 10ga wire in em it ran like a top and idled at 600rpm with a 262@050 cam.
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I didn't think I'd ever see adjusting bleeds like that again.

Thank you, I actually have an ancient kit to measure/adjust bleeds lol.
 
I didn't think I'd ever see adjusting bleeds like that again.

Thank you, I actually have an ancient kit to measure/adjust bleeds lol.
You know it’s a great way to do it. We used to tune for different track conditions with wire in the HSAB. I have never personally had to do it with IABs though. That was a first. And as soon as I realized what was going on I yanked em out and pressed new .070 ones in. Then we thew a different carb on it.
 
installed a 80 jet in the rear! And same deal after it was warmed up she started backfiring @5200-5500 when she was cold there was no issue.
Although that 80 jet made the engine happier.

So what I have left to do, I ordered a cap and rotor and new plugs and wires. Car needed all that regardless, and a ignition coil swap. I currently have the msd blaster 2 coil with their ballast resister. After all this and it still has the issue going to order Hughes valve springs and 1 of their 5/16 to 3/8 rocker studs (so I can use that valve spring compressor tool) already have there locks and retainers. Let’s see how it goes
 
installed a 80 jet in the rear! And same deal after it was warmed up she started backfiring @5200-5500 when she was cold there was no issue.
Although that 80 jet made the engine happier.

So what I have left to do, I ordered a cap and rotor and new plugs and wires. Car needed all that regardless, and an ignition coil swap. I currently have the msd blaster 2 coil with their ballast resister. After all this and it still has the issue going to order Hughes valve springs and 1 of their 5/16 to 3/8 rocker studs (so I can use that valve spring compressor tool) already have there locks and retainers. Let’s see how it goes
Good test. On to the next. Ignition
 
installed a 80 jet in the rear! And same deal after it was warmed up she started backfiring @5200-5500 when she was cold there was no issue.
Although that 80 jet made the engine happier.

So what I have left to do, I ordered a cap and rotor and new plugs and wires. Car needed all that regardless, and a ignition coil swap. I currently have the msd blaster 2 coil with their ballast resister. After all this and it still has the issue going to order Hughes valve springs and 1 of their 5/16 to 3/8 rocker studs (so I can use that valve spring compressor tool) already have there locks and retainers. Let’s see how it goes

@Bewy asked the correct question. Why would engine temp cause that?
 
installed a 80 jet in the rear! And same deal after it was warmed up she started backfiring @5200-5500 when she was cold there was no issue.
Although that 80 jet made the engine happier.

So what I have left to do, I ordered a cap and rotor and new plugs and wires. Car needed all that regardless, and a ignition coil swap. I currently have the msd blaster 2 coil with their ballast resister. After all this and it still has the issue going to order Hughes valve springs and 1 of their 5/16 to 3/8 rocker studs (so I can use that valve spring compressor tool) already have there locks and retainers. Let’s see how it goes
Did you post a picture of the plugs yet?
 
Guys I guess I was wrong I was looking through my emails and found that yes I indeed buy the Hughes updated spring kit in full, with springs keepers and retainers.

I guess my issue is either with fuel or spark!

IMG_4461.jpeg
 
installed a 80 jet in the rear! And same deal after it was warmed up she started backfiring @5200-5500 when she was cold there was no issue.
Although that 80 jet made the engine happier.

So what I have left to do, I ordered a cap and rotor and new plugs and wires. Car needed all that regardless, and a ignition coil swap. I currently have the msd blaster 2 coil with their ballast resister. After all this and it still has the issue going to order Hughes valve springs and 1 of their 5/16 to 3/8 rocker studs (so I can use that valve spring compressor tool) already have there locks and retainers. Let’s see how it goes
A regular old screw type spring compressor from the part store should work.

Duralast Valve Spring Compressor
 
Guys I guess I was wrong I was looking through my emails and found that yes I indeed buy the Hughes updated spring kit in full, with springs keepers and retainers.

I guess my issue is either with fuel or spark!

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Well that’s interesting. You should have enough spring. My thoughts immediately go to your Chrysler ignition module.
 
Check your firing order.
If it were a needle n seat.. it probably would wanna die at idle from being drowned in fuel. The factory box .. I quit using those .. something about them pulling timing or duration about 5k.. I can't remember anymore. Is it the 5 or 4 pin?


Sometimes I assume people have the basic **** covered by the time they come here asking for help. If This Were your typical roller, those hughes Springs would not be enough.. but because it is a magnum core with a giant base Circle, the Springs work okay.. or should. Factory valve lift at about .420- .432 or whatever only used 90 seat and 200 open... so should be good you'd think.

Still confused as to where the 901 spring mentioned fit in.. as where you say you bought the Hughes springs, was that after or ... what spring is in the head???
 
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Well that’s interesting. You should have enough spring. My thoughts immediately go to your Chrysler ignition module.
I was thinking the same, I’m trying to find a good upgrade but it seems like they’re all Chinese junk. Holley sells reman MSD boxes I just bought one for $115 shipped. That would eliminate my ignition issue, also an upgrade I been wanting to do.
 
Well that’s interesting. You should have enough spring. My thoughts immediately go to your Chrysler ignition module.
I was thinking the same, I’m trying to find a good upgrade but it seems like they’re all Chinese junk. Holley sells reman MSD boxes I just bought one for $115 shipped. That would eliminate my ignition issue, also an upgrade I been wanting to do.
Some guys have bad luck with MSD and will bash it, i tend to blame piss poor installation and wiring practices. I however love their stuff and have very good luck with it. Follow the directions to a T and you’ll have no problems.
 
Did you install them? What height were they installed at?
The machine shop that I go to installed them, that’s a unknown variable as well.
Check your firing order.
If it were a needle n seat.. it probably would wanna die at idle from being drowned in fuel. The factory box .. I quit using those .. something about them pulling timing or duration about 5k.. I can't remember anymore. Is it the 5 or 4 pin?


Sometimes I assume people have the basic **** covered by the time they come here asking for help. If This Were your typical roller, those hughes Springs would not be enough.. but because it is a magnum core with a giant base Circle, the Springs work okay.. or should. Factory valve lift at about .420- .432 or whatever only used 90 seat and 200 open... so should be good you'd think.

Still confused as to where the 901 spring mentioned fit in.. as where you say you bought the Hughes springs, was that after or ... what spring is in the head???
I checked the firing order, yesterday when I rearranged my wires in the engine bay. The module is the 4 pin style a rock auto special.

So the 901 springs were for a 318 build I did with adjustable 273 rockers and heads. The camshaft was a stock 340 grind type from comp cams.
 
A quick and easy ignition upgrade is to use your existing electronic distributor, a GM HEI module and jump the ballast resistor. I made a small mount/heat sink for the bottom of my distributor and run one on my D100. Cost $35 from Napa and is super easy to wire in.
 

Some guys have bad luck with MSD and will bash it, i tend to blame piss poor installation and wiring practices. I however love their stuff and have very good luck with it. Follow the directions to a T and you’ll have no problems.
Do you use a stock style cap and rotor just upgrade cables? And open plug gap to .045?
 
Do you use a stock style cap and rotor just upgrade cables? And open plug gap to .045?
Same cap, rotor, and plug wires. I didn’t even touch the plugs. I’ve seen plug gaps tested from .020 to .100 on the dyno make zero difference, so I don’t worry about em. Mine I think are .035 currently.
 
A quick and easy ignition upgrade is to use your existing electronic distributor, a GM HEI module and jump the ballast resistor. I made a small mount/heat sink for the bottom of my distributor and run one on my D100. Cost $35 from Napa and is super easy to wire in.

Absolutely agree. . . .
Change all my Mopar builds to this ignition .
Instant start every time, revs to 7k.
Plug gap 45 .
 
Absolutely agree. . . .
Change all my Mopar builds to this ignition .
Instant start every time, revs to 7k.
Plug gap 45 .
Everything street driven I use the HEI on. It’s very hard to beat.
 
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