horn issue

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Redfish,
I can only say that the screw was what was on the lever when I took it apart, the nut I replaced due to the one that was with it would not hold the screw anymore. I replaced that after the horn issue. I will not rule it out - I have the orginal column at the house I will take it apart and compare / take the screw and nut from that unit.
I also noticed last night I took the under column support out last night and it look like the black wire has sone chaffing on the shielding I am going to tape that up also and see what happens then not sure if that will cause the issue or not. I would think that if that was the issue the horn should be blowing reguardless of the wheel?
But I an not sure of anything with this one.
 
38 Dodge,
I hear you. I had a flash back nightmare on my sons Jeep Wrangler repair. The reason we were in the steering column was he had a turn signal that once activated for right turn only would kill one of the brake lights. Ends up the switch shared the brakes and turn and had failed mechanically which caused the electrical not to work. In the process of changing that switch, I assembled the horn ring incorrectly and it did what yours is doing. Is there any part there which you are not certain is assembled correctly? If you could find the input to the horn relay you might be able to check the control line to ground with the wheel off, then, assuming you have an open, you could assemble while watching that input line resistance reading, and see when it goes to a short, that would tell you when the contact is being made. Good luck, electro-mechanical can sometimes be a pain!!!
 
38 Dodge said:
Redfish,
I would think that if that was the issue the horn should be blowing reguardless of the wheel?
But I an not sure of anything with this one.
Click to expand...

This is exactly what would happen, so it's either up by the wheel, or the wheel itself causing the ground.



71340Duster said:
38 Dodge,
If you could find the input to the horn relay you might be able to check the control line to ground with the wheel off, then, assuming you have an open, you could assemble while watching that input line resistance reading, and see when it goes to a short, that would tell you when the contact is being made. Good luck, electro-mechanical can sometimes be a pain!!!
Click to expand...

This is basically what I suggested, but it never hurts to hear it different ways.:D
 
Trailbeast,
Oh yeah you sure did, I missed that. AND yours is with pics so better still!
 
Sorry for being on here sooner I have take. My entire dash out to try and see what I did wrong or what not once I get it back in hopefully Peter today or tomorrow I will report back
Thanks again for all the help and will let everyone know
 
OK here is an update,
I put everything back together last night and it is still doing tthe same thing, I looked hard at the sterring wheel and the column I dont see anything that is touching when I place wheel on and the horn goes off. But I then placed the orgingal wheel on it and the horn never went off when I touched the the wire to the base plate the horn would blow as it is suppose to. So then I I took that wheel off and put on another wheel from a 68 model car and it also worked correctly.
So I can only conclude that either the wheel I want to use is bad or it has to be used on a differnet column.
Does anyone have any pictures of a coulumn that the wheel came off of so I can see if there is any differance?
Thanks again for all the help and advise.
 
I mentioned it earlier and I wonder if there is a difference in the wheel from 67? The wheel you are using a 69....what year is the column??
 
I went and pulled steering wheels from the closet to compare with your pictures. I think I see the problem and I did mention it earlier.
The heavy steel ring with a end pointing down that cancels turn signals... It is supposed to be resting in a bed of plastic that isolates it from the copper contact ring underneath. Now... look closely at the wheels you have and/or get a OEM meter if you want. Check that there is no connection from part to part. If there is connection the plastic has failed.
I don't see the hard browish color plastic in the pic you provided.
actually, When you do pull the ring off you'll find the copper part was isolated from all surrounding metals.
 
How do I remove the metal ring? and where can I get replacement plastic ring? I guess I could always try and get it from one of teh other wheels I have.
When I get home tonight I will check it out with and meter.
Thanks again
 
38 Dodge said:
How do I remove the metal ring? and where can I get replacement plastic ring? I guess I could always try and get it from one of teh other wheels I have.
When I get home tonight I will check it out with and meter.
Thanks again
Click to expand...

The plastic was molded to or with the copper.
It is so brittle today that you likely wont get the ring off of any wheel without destroying the plastic.
Once you get the ring off you could rebuild the plastic with Plasti-Cast or some strong epoxy.
Knock the ring back on with a line wrench.
 
can I get some picture of the plastic and or location, I will look at my other wheels when I get home also.
 
Well here is the latest and greatest, I OHM out the wheel and if showed / buzzed that it was grounded. So I took my wheel apart that I am wanting to use and see pictures there was not plastic at all on any either side of the copper ring.
I then took the 67 wheel apart and the bottom side ring has a real good looking plastic ring the side with the turn signal cam/ secure clip had a little bit missing so I took some black sealant put everything together using the 67 ring on the other steering wheel OHM it out and it seemed to be good. I then went and installed the wheel on the column and it worked as required.
So if everything holds out I should be good to go.
Thanks everyone for the help but I would really like to thanks TrailBeast and RedFish with out you two I would still be trying to figure it out.
FABO is the best.
 

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38 Dodge said:
Well here is the latest and greatest, I OHM out the wheel and if showed / buzzed that it was grounded. So I took my wheel apart that I am wanting to use and see pictures there was not plastic at all on any either side of the copper ring.
I then took the 67 wheel apart and the bottom side ring has a real good looking plastic ring the side with the turn signal cam/ secure clip had a little bit missing so I took some black sealant put everything together using the 67 ring on the other steering wheel OHM it out and it seemed to be good. I then went and installed the wheel on the column and it worked as required.
So if everything holds out I should be good to go.
Thanks everyone for the help but I would really like to thanks TrailBeast and RedFish with out you two I would still be trying to figure it out.
FABO is the best.
Click to expand...

No problem at all.
It'd be a lot easier if we were all standing around looking at it with a cold beer wouldn't it?
 
I should be thanking you or this forum. As I started out yesterday I noticed a old 73 valiant steering wheel designated scrap. I need to remove that horn contact first.
Happy moparing
 
I have a plastic repair kit I think I going to try and mix some up and make the front and rear seals for the ring in the picture and see how it turns out just incase the one I am using now fails.
So thank you all and FABO.
I will let you all know how it turns out and you never know it might help someone else down the road.
 
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