How bad does this look?

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There are plenty of other cars much better in our neck of the woods. That's a parts car at best.

THIS /\^/\^/\^
It's just not worth all the work, time and money you'll eventually have to spend. I know you can something much nicer for 2K.

Treblig
 
You should name it "Fred".
 

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I'm with the majority here. 2k is out of line. I wouldn't even give 1k for it myself. I've bought 2 rusty A-bodies each for 1000. but neither have the roof rusted thru. They were also more desirable models and run and drove but not well.
I think If you really like it 1000. would be a cheap car to drive if the drivetrains is as sound as you say. Im not a slant six fan myself. It would not be a car to fix up as a keeper in my opinion.
It could do the job for you till a better body came your way. And you could do the cheap body repairs on it so it would look decent as it got you around.
I remember how several of my first cars were not desirable by anyone not even me. But they got me around good till I found a better body to swap the parts into. They were new yorkers with 440s though. I personally would buy it as cheap as you can and use it for the disc brake swap on a 67- 72 model when you find the right deal.
 
I agree with the many that have said 2K is to much. I agree with the many that have said the rust is to wide spread to be cost effective to repair. I wouldnt buy that car but as I read all the posts you kept coming back and giving reasons why you want to buy this car so it appears that your mind is really already made up to buy the car. A few things to consider, does your state have a yearly inspection. If so I would only buy the car after it passes an inspection. Offer to pay for the inspection before you buy it, if it passes theres no issue, but if it doesnt you havent lost the 2k. Its one way to make sure the underbody/frame is safe. Its really hard to believe that a car that has sat outside in the elements and rusted as bad as this car has, that the underbody/frame wont have the same type of rust issues.
Another thing that would seem to be a problem is that you say the car is for your friend and not you. Both names will be on the title and insurance? Again that is most times the best way to end a friendship. It all sounds good but once the car starts to need money thrown at it one preson ends up paying while the other doesnt want to put more in it or doesnt have money to invest. Just a bad situation most times.
The last thing you say is that the owners grandson will crush the car. If that is really the case why does he want so much money for it? he will only get $400 maybe $500 bucks tops to scrap it. If you want the car wait until just before he decides that then give him $600 for it. Its really only worth that or more if you scrap it out. And then you have to find people to buy the parts which usually means storing the parts somewhere until you find buyers interested. Remember the exterior body parts are going to be worth nothing.
Best of luck and I hope you make the right decision.
Rod
 
I agree with the many that have said 2K is to much. I agree with the many that have said the rust is to wide spread to be cost effective to repair. I wouldnt buy that car but as I read all the posts you kept coming back and giving reasons why you want to buy this car so it appears that your mind is really already made up to buy the car. A few things to consider, does your state have a yearly inspection. If so I would only buy the car after it passes an inspection. Offer to pay for the inspection before you buy it, if it passes theres no issue, but if it doesnt you havent lost the 2k. Its one way to make sure the underbody/frame is safe. Its really hard to believe that a car that has sat outside in the elements and rusted as bad as this car has, that the underbody/frame wont have the same type of rust issues.
Another thing that would seem to be a problem is that you say the car is for your friend and not you. Both names will be on the title and insurance? Again that is most times the best way to end a friendship. It all sounds good but once the car starts to need money thrown at it one preson ends up paying while the other doesnt want to put more in it or doesnt have money to invest. Just a bad situation most times.
The last thing you say is that the owners grandson will crush the car. If that is really the case why does he want so much money for it? he will only get $400 maybe $500 bucks tops to scrap it. If you want the car wait until just before he decides that then give him $600 for it. Its really only worth that or more if you scrap it out. And then you have to find people to buy the parts which usually means storing the parts somewhere until you find buyers interested. Remember the exterior body parts are going to be worth nothing.
Best of luck and I hope you make the right decision.
Rod

In all honesty, I don't have a clue why I like this car so much, but I really do. Fortunately, Florida has no inspections and pretty much anything goes. It's the grandson that wants the money, it's his uncle (one of her sons) that is more willing to scrap it. He also wanted to do it to the Valiant she used to have just because he doesn't like Chrysler because that's about all he saw when he worked at a garage. The only reason I'm gonna be on it is because this is going to be his first car and it's going to be cheaper if I'm on it for a while since I've had a truck insured under my name for awhile. And not only is it gonna be a driver for him, it's gonna be a project for me and he'll be learning along the way because he wants to learn about cars. I've already put about $100 in getting the gauge cluster working again, but I'm going to be paying for repairs anyway since that's my project. It's going to be a nice first car for him, and a project for me when it's home, and it's mostly cosmetics as far as I can see. I know a guy that seems to know everything about Mopars, so when I get a chance, I'll drive it the two blocks to his place and see what his two cents are. For all I know, he may have body panels for this. He had several different clusters he would've given me and he gave me new window cranks for it. Either way, he's gonna drive it until something major happens which could be a month after he gets it, or five years. It seems that I fund dying causes for some reason; my daily is a 1990 GMC S15 that I bought for $900 four years ago, and it's been falling apart ever since. It was driven once a week for six years, and had about 10K miles put on it in that span and I've put almost 60K on it in four years. It's getting hard to think of something I haven't replaced and I think I have about $3000 in repairs in it since I bought it. But none of it has ever been for the engine or transmission, just everything around them. That old 4.3L runs crazy good and there's been no problems with the 700R4 until recently and I will put a new trans in it if I have to, I plan to either see the odometer roll over at least once and I'm almost 1/5 of the way there at 193K on the clock. But right now, I have the grandson mad at me so I'll be dealing with his grandmother now unless I patch it up. I kinda have to since we work together and I've known him since high school.
 
If it means anything, the rest of the car does look pretty good for what it is. The moment the keys are handed to me, those seat covers and floor mats are going in the trunk. The front seats are in perfect condition as is the back seat. The carpet shows it's age, but is still not too bad. A question though, what are those things around the interior door handle called and where can I get them? The ones on the car are well deteriorated and I'd like to replace them. Also, I have since replaced the speedometer and that now works. Since that picture was taken, about 600 or so miles were put on it and those are original miles. Unfortunately, I just replaced the whole unit and the mileage differed by about 1K or so, but it doesn't really matter to me much. I'm taking the cluster out again to fix the lights and I can spin it up with my drill to where it should be. What does bother me, and I don't know why, is the one I put in reads up to 120 whereas the original only read up to 100. It reads correctly as far as I can tell. And I must say that I like that whoever put in the newer radio decided to install it under the dash rather than cut the dash. If I can, I'm going to find a stock radio for it too.
 

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Some nice options though......front bucket seats (with the buddy seat, kind of rare) and air con. That is a great parts donor car for a rust free car.

Nice speedo, LOL
 
my 2 cents are its a 76 scamp..it would be different if it was a 69 gts or something sought after 500 bux tops as they wont get that for scrap value and your doing them a favor
 
2000 is too much. consider that you can get a roller from dartbodies.com that has zero rust for like 7k. really.
 
The man who buys that car wants its parts. He may touch it mechanically as needed and drive it. I wouldn't bother to wash it. His real labor and expense will go into a pre 73 A-body hard top that is solid on the outside.
If it has disc brakes, etc... 800.00 is my best offer.
 
Are you sure that isn't a northern car.
To make that car safe will require a fair amount of metal work- much more than the car will be worth.
Check out Metalmeet.... You will have a lot in common.
There was a time that we would bondo that up, tremclad it and pound it until it died. I would buy it just because of the seat LOL
 
If it means anything, the rest of the car does look pretty good for what it is. The moment the keys are handed to me, those seat covers and floor mats are going in the trunk. The front seats are in perfect condition as is the back seat. The carpet shows it's age, but is still not too bad. A question though, what are those things around the interior door handle called and where can I get them? The ones on the car are well deteriorated and I'd like to replace them. Also, I have since replaced the speedometer and that now works. Since that picture was taken, about 600 or so miles were put on it and those are original miles. Unfortunately, I just replaced the whole unit and the mileage differed by about 1K or so, but it doesn't really matter to me much. I'm taking the cluster out again to fix the lights and I can spin it up with my drill to where it should be. What does bother me, and I don't know why, is the one I put in reads up to 120 whereas the original only read up to 100. It reads correctly as far as I can tell. And I must say that I like that whoever put in the newer radio decided to install it under the dash rather than cut the dash. If I can, I'm going to find a stock radio for it too.

So you already bought it?
 
So you already bought it?

Yes and no. My roommate has been making payments on it. I've let him read through this and he doesn't really care since it's going to be his first car. So, since he's buying it, I'm gonna get everything working again and make it a decent driver. I've also found someone that will do all the rust repair for the cost of supplies and nothing more. He's thinking it shouldn't be much more than $1200; and it's only that because we went to high school together, otherwise it'd be a lot more.
 
X22, like rustyratrod said. and a few dozen others.
it will be a great learning experience! ( maybe "great" isn't the correct word!).
 
Life is too short---> Run....................
 
Like EL5DEMON340 said, if it is that bad on top you can be rest assured the Torsion bar mounts are toast also .If it was me i would not put any money in it .
 
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