How can i make 700 horse from a 410 stroker

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I sure would like to know what you race and what it runs. You have the dyno talk and numbers factoring down to an art. But are you applying all that technology on the race track. Tell us YOUR track history please.
Track is a good indicator but also assumes that gearing, converter, tune and everything else is optimized for the whole combination. I’ve seen big power stuff run like a turd because of poor shock choices. I’ve also seen cheap, low power combos run great because the entire combo was well sorted and tuned. In the end, there’s still too many variables. I wouldn’t know how to even interpret mud drag track data lol.
 
Like I said Rob, when you look at blocks that are equal (regardless of the brand of the block or the brand of engine) the Ritter block isn’t much more expensive than any other block. And the Ritter block, at least the later ones do not require any more machine work than any other block. That’s what I’m saying.

You can get cheaper blocks for SBC’s (for example Dart makes a block that is nothing more than an upgrade in materiel over a 400 chevy block and it’s by no means a race block but it’s cheaper than a Ritter but it’s not even close to what the Ritter is) that you can’t get for a SBM but I don’t suggest guys needing a block buy the cheaper replacement block.

What I’m saying is comparing like for like, the Ritter block is no more expense or work than any other equivalent aftermarket block.
OK! Cool! Thanks buddy. Nice to know where on the same page and understanding. On your post, I agree. I remember you telling me to not worry about it and make the leap. It won’t happen yet. It is in the back of my head though.
I bought a Ritter cast block, ran new $2700 shipped and had about $3000 machine work for the basic the only thing I did that cost more was the addition of roller cam bearings. Then I drilled the holes in the deck for the heads I was using. The aluminum blocks go for a lot more. Plus the cast iron block might have gone up since I bought one back in 2017.

View attachment 1716089478
Roller cam bearings? WOOOOOOOOOOOO!
So, I’d say it’s safe to say you’re not fooling around.
Thanks for the post.
 
OK! Cool! Thanks buddy. Nice to know where on the same page and understanding. On your post, I agree. I remember you telling me to not worry about it and make the leap. It won’t happen yet. It is in the back of my head though.

Roller cam bearings? WOOOOOOOOOOOO!
So, I’d say it’s safe to say you’re not fooling around.
Thanks for the post.
Yeah, kinda hind site wish I went 48* instead of 59* though. But yeah the roller cam bearings are better, on my block the rear cam feed hole is not drilled, not sure if the new ones are drilled from Ritter, but didn't mind the smoother flow of roller cam bearings.
 
I bought a Ritter cast block, ran new $2700 shipped and had about $3000 machine work for the basic the only thing I did that cost more was the addition of roller cam bearings. Then I drilled the holes in the deck for the heads I was using. The aluminum blocks go for a lot more. Plus the cast iron block might have gone up since I bought one back in 2017.

View attachment 1716089478

Perfect example right here.

If you deduct for the .937 lifters and the roller cam bearings the Ritter block doesn’t take any more machine work than any other block.

Of course, you can have the costs associated with .937 lifters and roller cam bearings with any other block as well.

Exactly what I have said. The Ritter doesn’t require any more work than any other block.

Thanks
 
Perfect example right here.

If you deduct for the .937 lifters and the roller cam bearings the Ritter block doesn’t take any more machine work than any other block.

Of course, you can have the costs associated with .937 lifters and roller cam bearings with any other block as well.

Exactly what I have said. The Ritter doesn’t require any more work than any other block.

Thanks
That's a old one, the lifters were sleeved to go back to factory .904 I believe, the bigger lifters half the link on the out side that hit the block, if I went 48* no problem but since 59* went back to .904 lifter and went with G&S rollers that have the cross bar link on the inside close to the push rod.
 
A discussion from QMP racing I had just a few short months ago. They know the ins and outs of a Ritter block. I’m sure Brian does as well, he got experience with em.

I want an aluminum one, but hot damn.
Brian, ya still have those W-9’s or did they sell?


QMP:
“On the block I would rather you get it rite from Ritter.
Here are some machine work prices

Line hone $250
Set sleeves alum block $125
CNC Deck $170
CNC bore $170
Bore & hone cam tunnel $660
Lifter tru for tie bar lifters + bushings $975
Diamond hone $500
Notch block for stroke clearance $250
Wash block
Install cam bearings $130

Some of these are options

Let me know what you are looking for.”
 
A discussion from QMP racing I had just a few short months ago. They know the ins and outs of a Ritter block. I’m sure Brian does as well, he got experience with em.

I want an aluminum one, but hot damn.
Brian, ya still have those W-9’s or did they sell?


QMP:
“On the block I would rather you get it rite from Ritter.
Here are some machine work prices

Line hone $250
Set sleeves alum block $125
CNC Deck $170
CNC bore $170
Bore & hone cam tunnel $660
Lifter tru for tie bar lifters + bushings $975
Diamond hone $500
Notch block for stroke clearance $250
Wash block
Install cam bearings $130

Some of these are options

Let me know what you are looking for.”
QMP did my block, I always delt with Mike, was referred by Shiloh to go to them.
 
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Initial expense is the issue. Added machine work is the other cost that you already know is a bad taste. Any time money leaves my wallet there is a bad taste.



More or less the same issue with the MP race blocks. Initial expense is a lot. If you’re a serious person and or racer, the price is acceptable when a honest big power mill is being looked at. Not many diving into their wallets for this. Few build anything approaching the actual need for a race block.

Saying what you said takes what I said out of context and you F’in know it. It’s F’in retarded to even state what you did it’s ridiculous. Don’t be a dickhead and show yourself as another short attention span reader trying throw trump cards on what you mis read or didn’t read. You will make yourself look like an dumbfuck asshole.
Really lol, I just wanted to let guys know that as of now callies is planning on making a new version of the R block and throw some shade at the guys complaining that they cannot afford race blocks after whining that their aren't enough options. And yes its a cheap investment when you need something that can take a hit vs. scattering an engine built with a stock block. I never said to buy a race block for a street car, who's taking things out of context. Clearly you don't need/want a race block and I think you are doing a fine job yourself of looking like a "dumbfuck asshole" lol, such nice escalation and language rumble, way to take things personal.
 
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Since you started it a personal against me it was returned.

Reading comprehension on your part was a fail. You addressed me via the quote.

And moving on……
 
Since you started it a personal against me it was returned.

Reading comprehension on your part was a fail. You addressed me via the quote.

And moving on……
Nothing personal intended at all, just a discussion and differing opinions. It is what it is and no hard feelings.
 
Perfect example right here.

If you deduct for the .937 lifters and the roller cam bearings the Ritter block doesn’t take any more machine work than any other block.

Of course, you can have the costs associated with .937 lifters and roller cam bearings with any other block as well.

Exactly what I have said. The Ritter doesn’t require any more work than any other block.

Thanks
Have you done one yet? If not, try it.
 
Yeah, kinda hind site wish I went 48* instead of 59* though. But yeah the roller cam bearings are better, on my block the rear cam feed hole is not drilled, not sure if the new ones are drilled from Ritter, but didn't mind the smoother flow of roller cam bearings.
Mopar had the chance to correct that lifter angle with the original version of the small block and failed. Dumbest thing ever but I guess they saved a couple nickels because of it. I loved the 48 degree setup when the R3 came out. If Mopar would have made the blocks more available and had a decent cylinder head offering at the time, they definitely would’ve sold plenty more. I thought the Victor head would’ve caught on but Mopar folks are just cheap.
 
How can Mopar people be cheap when we pay more for everything. Lol.
Back in the seventies when I was in my teens I used to laugh at chev and ford people because they would spend a fortune on there engines with big heads , big cam etc and all I would do was a 4 barrel and headers and beat them.
My first attempt was on my 265 Hemi six, all I dis was to put a 4 barrel and headers and it ran 14.7 on street tyres.
My next attempt was to put a 360 in it with 340 pistons for high compression with a 650 spread bore and my home made headers and it ran 13.7 on street tyres.
There was no diff changes and they were both manuals. It is all in a good match of parts and a good tune.
Yes I had minimal spend compared to the GM and Ford crowd so Yes I believed it was easier and cost effective to get a mopar going compared to the other crowd.
 
Mopar had the chance to correct that lifter angle with the original version of the small block and failed. Dumbest thing ever but I guess they saved a couple nickels because of it. I loved the 48 degree setup when the R3 came out. If Mopar would have made the blocks more available and had a decent cylinder head offering at the time, they definitely would’ve sold plenty more. I thought the Victor head would’ve caught on but Mopar folks are just cheap.
100% agree with this. I waited so so long for the Victor head to come around I finally said screw it and went with the W5’s. They were inexpensive bare heads at the time.

Now you can’t get a Victor head. Edelbrock doesn’t seem to care. I don’t blame them since it’s most probably a low volume head which makes it expensive. I’ve would have paid the price.
 
Mopar had the chance to correct that lifter angle with the original version of the small block and failed. Dumbest thing ever but I guess they saved a couple nickels because of it. I loved the 48 degree setup when the R3 came out. If Mopar would have made the blocks more available and had a decent cylinder head offering at the time, they definitely would’ve sold plenty more. I thought the Victor head would’ve caught on but Mopar folks are just cheap.
Mopar was more concerned with putting a wedge head on a block designed for canted valve heads as cheaply as possible. We would be better off if they had stuck with canted valve heads
 
W9 top end, 13-1 compression on
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like the title say 700 from a 410. I'm looking for the recipe. What heads,intake,compression and cam? This will probably be molnar crank/rods and whatever forged piston.
Check out Hughes Engines website if you haven't already. They have a 700hp small block stroker in their dyno tests. At least get an idea of what it takes.
 
Check out Hughes Engines website if you haven't already. They have a 700hp small block stroker in their dyno tests. At least get an idea of what it takes.
should be good for over 140 mph in the 1/4 at 3000#'s
 
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