Gwywnc
Well-Known Member
i have zero help and need to remove the pistons. How can I do it? I have already removed the head. Thanks
How to remove pistons without removing the engine: 440
- Thread starter Gwywnc
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451Cuda
Well-Known Member
Drain oil, drop pan, remove rod cap, and carefully push it up and out x 8. I'd suggest wrapping the end of the rod with a towel so you don't knick the walls. After each one is out, screw the rod cap back on. Also, if you're under there by yourself, get a big ratchet on the balancer bolt so you can turn the crank to reach all the rod ends.
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Drain the oil, drop the pan, remove the rod caps, place pieces of 3/8 rubber fuel line on the rod cap bolts, push the pistons out the top from the bottom. Take shower to remove all the oil that has dripped on you.
Faster........remove rod caps, place one stick of dynamite with electric fuse in pan, replace pan, exit garage, set off dynamite, pick up pistons out of front and back lawn.
I'm afraid to ask. Why-oh-why are we removing the pistons with the engine still in the car?
Faster........remove rod caps, place one stick of dynamite with electric fuse in pan, replace pan, exit garage, set off dynamite, pick up pistons out of front and back lawn.
I'm afraid to ask. Why-oh-why are we removing the pistons with the engine still in the car?
You have to remove oil pan and disconnect all rod nuts. You also have a ridge at the top of the cylinder where piston and rings don't run on, that must be removed to prevent damage to rings and piston. After this is done, than you can push piston through. You must be careful not to score crank from the rod bolts. If possible put rubber hose on rod bolts which will also prevent crank damage. You can also remove crank after all rod nuts are off which will also prevent damage to the crank.
dano
Evil Handy Man
After you go through the BS of trying to do this you'll find removing the engine is easier, faster and less work
I like the way you think. That way the block will almost be light enough to remove by hand. The next logical step would be to strip the front of the motor and remove the radiator, AC condenser, and grill to make pulling the cam easier. After that remove the fenders and suspension components so you can get closer and won't hurt your back.
bOb shingler
Well-Known Member
there is one drain plug on each side of the motor to drain the coolent. if there is a ridge at the top of the cylinder you should get a ridge reamer and remove it so you don't smash the ring lands. cover the rod bolts with a short piece of gas hose.
Gwywnc
Well-Known Member
I'm removing the pistons because it was making a horrible sound and I thought it was a broken valve spring but it wasn't. I was told that it was a wrist pin. I don't have a cherry picker and I have no one to help me at all. I have the confidence to do it. I changed a 1984 Subaru gl from automatic 4wd to 4 speed dual range 4wd and did it completely by myself only has my brother help me lift the old motor out and the new one in. I shut the car off as soon as it started make the horrible noise and was told there's a chance that I didn't hurt the block but only the piston so I'm taking them out to see what's the problem.
GeorgeH
Well-Known Member
Have to agree with the others. With all the up, down, under, back and forth it's going to take doing it that way an hour and a half the engine is on a stand and you can work like a gentleman.
famous bob
mopar misfit
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boy! I bet that helps ! LOL
Cody reminded me of the 'mechanic' we know that disconnects the rod bolts, rotates the crank, pushes the piston down to the bottom of the bore, hones the cylinder wall and pushes the piston back up and reconnects the rod bolts.
See him wash the inside of a 350 Chevy Vortec with the engine still in the truck. He removed the intake manifold and the oil pan drain plug, power washed the valley down with the cam, lifters, rods and pistons still in place. Reinstalled the drain plug, intake manifold w/new intake gasket (it was leaking water into the intake ports) new oil and filter and sent it on it's way.
GeorgeH
Well-Known Member
right on!
That's the flip side, trying to get it clean enough to reassemble.
Rent, beg, borrow, or steal a cherry picker for an afternoon, or find a big tree!
This engine is in the car so don't forget that first you have to cut the crank snout and flywheel flange off with a sawsall and then removing the transmission and timing cover won't be necessary.
Okay, makes sense. Ignore the foolishness, follow the real suggestions and get 'er done.
If you have a harbor freight near you, (yes, I know they only sell junk) pick up a cherry picker. They are cheap, but more than enough for a shade tree mechanic. I used their 2-ton (paid $2-220ish, IIRC) to pull a 1,000lb diesel engine out of my F350. By myself. Makes life MUCH easier working on the engine outside of the vehicle. And their 1-ton engine stands work great too, although I had to lift up on the motor a bit and "bear-hug" it to turn it.
How did he get the rings on the pistons without removing them? Man this guy is good, no wonder I could never make any money as a mechanic.
Bulldozer
free ice cream sandwiches
I found a 2 ton hoist on CL for 75 bucks and hauled it in the trunk of a 92 Taurus. Ive used it several times and flipped it on CL for 140 , a win win
dano
Evil Handy Man
You know a lot of members here are willing to help. Go to the regional forums and see if there is anyone in your area that will lend a hand. Rent or buy a cherry picker. As stated above craigslist is a good place to start, lots of "I bought this and used it once" deals.
451Cuda
Well-Known Member
If you lived close I'd bring my spare cherry picker over to ya, or sell it to ya for $100. Anyone in NC have one to sell or loan to him?
Yup if you were closer, I'd lend you mine and a engine stand. I have about 5 of them.
HOTMOPR
Mr Horsepower
If its making a bad noise its probably a rod bearing. So youll be pulling it anyways to get the crank cleaned up..
A little diagnostic wouldn't have hurt. It would be a shame if you found out you had a cracked flexplate.
famous bob
mopar misfit
pulling one is a pain in the *** for me, but I think I would. laying under one sucks too.
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