Hydraulic Linkage

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Kevin Jonker

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Has anyone installed a hydraulic throwout bearing? I am sick of my mech. style linkage not working correctly. Keisler wants $499.00 for the setup. Anyone done it with other parts cheaper? Don't want to cheat Keisler but I am on a BUDGET!!!!!! My 68 Fish deserves better! ROW YOUR OWN GEARS! Kevin
 
Seems to me that with the number of manual shifted mopars on the road, that getting the factory stuff to work would be the easiest and cheapest way to go. There isn't that much stuff to really go wrong. I've had cars with trashed z bzr pivot bushings shift ok (how?) It can be done take your time.

don
 
I saw a 91(?) Dodge truck that used a hydraulic set up. Reservoir, line, and a big slave cylinder. Maybe you could make that work.
 
That is the way the Dodge Cummins trucks come..master..slave..I actually have a setup for a 6 speed Dodge Cummins setting in my garage..may try and use it on my son's 68 Dart 383 4 speed conversion..

Rick
 
I haven't done it but I understand that the hydraulic throwout/release bearing from a jeep cherokee works. Or it was one by Howe racing. Basically you replace the throwout bearing with a hydraulicly extendable one. Similar to what Keisler puts out. It's worth checking out a parts book or having the parts monkey yank one out to compare to a factory bearing. I won't ever run a rowboat trans in my car as my knee will wear a patch in the door panel only because my legs don't fit to well.
 
Below were the parts we were going to order from summit, before we found out the McCleod will not work with the cenrtorce clutch - the weights get in the way. Might want to do some research and find out if any of the Mcleod units will work with your current tranny and clutch. Tilton also has a unit, but it's in the price range that you are currently not liking.

The below setup will however require lots of fabrication to get the master cylinder to work with your clutch pedal. It costs money to get something that is bolt in, and this is what the Kiesler system will get you, although from my understanding Kiesler doesn't even make the units for the 833.

Other options is always to use a slave cylinder.

MCL-16053 Throwout bearing $59.99
MCL-1419 Spacer 48.69
WIL-260-6765 Master Cylinder 57.88
 
jahsh said:
MCL-16053 Throwout bearing $59.99
MCL-1419 Spacer 48.69
WIL-260-6765 Master Cylinder 57.88
Click to expand...

You sure about that part # for the TO bearing? It shows up as a stock bearing on Summit's website. Somebody posted part numbers on Big Block Dart I beleive. I'll see if I can find them.

Lee
1966 Barracuda, 340 4 speed
 
I found the part numbers from a post on Mopar Chat:

These are the part numbers from Summit Racing

the McLeod Hydraulic Throwout bearing is : MCL-1400-10
the Wilwood 1" remote mount master is : WIL-260-3378

Here's the thread:

http://www.moparchat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=101435

Lee
1966 Barracuda, 340 4 Speed
 
lilcuda said:
You sure about that part # for the TO bearing? It shows up as a stock bearing on Summit's website. Somebody posted part numbers on Big Block Dart I beleive. I'll see if I can find them.
Click to expand...

I stopped double checking that it would all work once Mcleod said that none of their products would work with my centerforce clutch. From experience I would call and double check as much as you can.
 
Do these hyd units perform on the drag strip,i.e. full throttle power shifts? I don't see how they could but i've been wrong before.
 
I'm lazy and like kits myself, but I thought Keisler discontinued their hydraulic conversion kits, at least for Mopars. I'd really like to ditch the Z bar at some point.
 
urchinhead said:
I'm lazy and like kits myself, but I thought Keisler discontinued their hydraulic conversion kits, at least for Mopars. I'd really like to ditch the Z bar at some point.
Click to expand...

Keisler stopped making the kit for the 833 because some pieces needed to be re-worked. They say it's on their list to start making it again, but it hasn't happened. I urge as many people to call them and express interest so they know there is a big market for this type of thing.
 
jahsh said:
Keisler stopped making the kit for the 833 because some pieces needed to be re-worked. They say it's on their list to start making it again, but it hasn't happened. I urge as many people to call them and express interest so they know there is a big market for this type of thing.
Click to expand...

I emailed Keisler a few weeks ago asking what the status is on their kits. The rep told me "We had a good break thru today. We found a bearing that may work we are going to be testing it in a few weeks." I asked him to keep me posted on the status. As soon as I hear something, I'll post it.

Lee
1966 Barracuda, 340 4 speed
 
I just got off the phone with Keisler, and they told me that they used to use McCleod, but have been attempting to find another supplier because they changed systems. They told me they ( Keisler ) should have a kit for the A833 by this summer, but then again, they said that before the last summer, and I should call McCleod.

I called McCleod, ( 714 ) 630 - 3668, but was received by the voice mail.

http://www.mcleodind.com/
 
As I think i have mentioned before on this site - when i looked into using a McCleod, they said it wouldn't work with my Centerforce DF - so if you have this type of clutch - this might not be an option. Make sure to talk with McCleod about what type of clutch you have.

Also, the McCleod option doesn't come with all the 'bolt-in' goodies that the Keisler system had. It is very generic in-terms of the clutch pedal/master cylinder side of things, and would need lots of fabrication.

urchinhead said:
I just got off the phone with Keisler, and they told me that they used to use McCleod, but have been attempting to find another supplier because they changed systems. They told me they ( Keisler ) should have a kit for the A833 by this summer, but then again, they said that before the last summer, and I should call McCleod.

I called McCleod, ( 714 ) 630 - 3668, but was received by the voice mail.

http://www.mcleodind.com/
Click to expand...
 
Here's link to another thread right here in the hizzy.....

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=18089&highlight=Hydrolic


Hope this helps...


Kevin Jonker said:
Has anyone installed a hydraulic throwout bearing? I am sick of my mech. style linkage not working correctly. Keisler wants $499.00 for the setup. Anyone done it with other parts cheaper? Don't want to cheat Keisler but I am on a BUDGET!!!!!! My 68 Fish deserves better! ROW YOUR OWN GEARS! Kevin
Click to expand...
 
Since the South Bend Clutch does not have the weights that the centerforce does I wonder if the hydraulic system would work???
I guess I need to call Peter and ask him...

Rick
 
man reading all this is depressing,,,i had talked to keislier,,a year ago so i thought,, and at that time they had a system for the 833, all you needed to do was maching the front bearing retainer,,,i was going to buy one this year at carlisle,,, plus they never told me it wouldnt work with a center force,,
i alwaysd wondered if the mcleod was who made it for keislier,,and i was going to look in to it,,,

what other clutch compares to the center force,,with out the weights ???

i currently use a tilton system,that i bought and made work,,it uses A hyd bearing that mounts to the scatter shield, but unlike the mcleod,,the tilton needs to be set up as far as distance fromt the pressure plate,,i currently am having clutch problems,,,after 7000 miles,,,im pretty sure the throw out bearing siezed up,,and work the fingers down on the plate,, i wont kmnow for a while till i get it apart,,
but as far as fabrication,,the pedal to master cylinder,,is no big deal,,,,
i used a tilton master,,,7/8 bore,,looks just like the wilwood,,if i remember correctly,,it was a 5 to 2 ratio,,for the pivot point,, i used the hole in the fire wall where the speedo cable came thru,,it was perfectly located to the correct positon for proper ratio to the pedal/master cyl stroke,,,the master has a threaded rod,,3/8.. i had to open the speedo cable hole ,, i used a green tool,,,made for punching holes in electrical boxes,, makes a perfect hole,,for the master cyl sholder to go thru,,on the end of the threaded rod i used a rod end,,heim joint,what ever you want to call it,drilled a hole in the clutch pedal arm,,made a spacer to reach to the arm,,,so the rod en had some thing to rest up against,,,and thats it,,,,

so what other clutches are out there that work good on a warmer up smal block,,??
 
So have you confirmed with Kiesler that their system (when the get it back on the market) will not work with the Centerforce? If so, that's a bummer. The more I'm thinking about it, I'm just gonna go with a slave cylinder - it's not ideal, but seems like a more reliable setup.

As for the Tilton unit, I was told by them that they only now produce the big block unit for the larger diameter bearing retainer - another bummer. Seems like there would be more options out there- very frustrating.

fstfish66 said:
man reading all this is depressing,,,i had talked to keislier,,a year ago so i thought,, and at that time they had a system for the 833, all you needed to do was maching the front bearing retainer,,,i was going to buy one this year at carlisle,,, plus they never told me it wouldnt work with a center force,,
i alwaysd wondered if the mcleod was who made it for keislier,,and i was going to look in to it,,,

what other clutch compares to the center force,,with out the weights ???

i currently use a tilton system,that i bought and made work,,it uses A hyd bearing that mounts to the scatter shield, but unlike the mcleod,,the tilton needs to be set up as far as distance fromt the pressure plate,,i currently am having clutch problems,,,after 7000 miles,,,im pretty sure the throw out bearing siezed up,,and work the fingers down on the plate,, i wont kmnow for a while till i get it apart,,
but as far as fabrication,,the pedal to master cylinder,,is no big deal,,,,
i used a tilton master,,,7/8 bore,,looks just like the wilwood,,if i remember correctly,,it was a 5 to 2 ratio,,for the pivot point,, i used the hole in the fire wall where the speedo cable came thru,,it was perfectly located to the correct positon for proper ratio to the pedal/master cyl stroke,,,the master has a threaded rod,,3/8.. i had to open the speedo cable hole ,, i used a green tool,,,made for punching holes in electrical boxes,, makes a perfect hole,,for the master cyl sholder to go thru,,on the end of the threaded rod i used a rod end,,heim joint,what ever you want to call it,drilled a hole in the clutch pedal arm,,made a spacer to reach to the arm,,,so the rod en had some thing to rest up against,,,and thats it,,,,

so what other clutches are out there that work good on a warmer up smal block,,??
Click to expand...
 
a guy i know pretty good ,,here at a local speed shop,,has delt personallu with red,,the owner and inventer at mcleod,he tolds me back in the early 80;s he built a 46 ford truck,,,with a small block chev,blown,,and wanted a stick,,,he called and talked with RED,,, and they built him one to work,,
the way he described it,,it sounds like the tilton style im using now,,,
i mentioned about reading that te mcleod bearing wouldnt work wit ha center force,, he told me he is going to try to call RED directly,, and se what thay say, i priced the mcleod clutch stuff on summits web site,,the clutch set up mcleold seems to have that is compareable to center force performance wise is high priced,,,they say there clutch will not work with other fly wheels,,,wtf,,,,, so a complete package at summit is over 900.00,
and the clutch keisler offers with there system is a sachs,, that is just a rebuilt type unit,, i will find a diferent hyd bearing,,,i wil not go back to a factory style mopar throw out bearing,, those dam clips always seem to be the down fall,,,
 
I used one from Howe, it is for circle track use, but I have used mine for a couple years now, I also used the master out of the S10 pickup I got the trans out of, it almost bolted into my valiant, it is sweet. I am not sure if the howe will work on an 883 though, I didnt own one when I did the swap, or else I would have tried it, now I own three, timing couldnt be worse. I guess all I need is a measurement to see if it fits over the bearing retainer on the 883, ill have to check on that. You could use a slave cylinder too, that would be easy also.
 
the tilton unit i use is still in production,, this unit has nothing to do with the size of the bearing retainer, this unit goes inside the scatter shield bolts to the scatter shield,,,and the input shaft passes thru it,, it comes as a chevy unit,,you have to tell them you are using it in a mopar,,they will sell you the mopar throw out bearing and sleeve,,they wil not remove or trade the chevy bearing,,so it comes wit hthe package,, this is the same unit being used in nascar today,,, i was just in charlotte at a giant auto event and took a tour thru some of the nascar shops,,, henrick motor sports has a clutch set up on display,,and they are using the same tilton hyd bearing i use,,,
if you are intrested i will get out the package and get you the part numbers,,
 
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